300hp to 400hp upgrade
08-28-2017, 11:34 AM
#103
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Location: Israel
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I got a few questions I hope you guys can answer:
1. Any real reason to get the Gates water pump with the cast impeller ? I got a regular one.
2. Do I need anything more then the stock replacement for the trigger wheel to go with the ATI damper ?
Thanks
1. Any real reason to get the Gates water pump with the cast impeller ? I got a regular one.
2. Do I need anything more then the stock replacement for the trigger wheel to go with the ATI damper ?
Thanks
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08-28-2017, 11:41 AM
#104
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Location: Mount Pleasant, SC
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I got a few questions I hope you guys can answer:
1. Any real reason to get the Gates water pump with the cast impeller ? I got a regular one. What is the difference in cast and non cast? Is it better balanced? Is there a keeper bolt for the impeller that is better? Is it heavier or easier to turn? Will it load the engine more being cast vs not?
2. Do I need anything more then the stock replacement for the trigger wheel to go with the ATI damper ? - nothing is ever NEEDED just recommended. You should know the answer to this one though if you already have 250 hp...
Thanks
1. Any real reason to get the Gates water pump with the cast impeller ? I got a regular one. What is the difference in cast and non cast? Is it better balanced? Is there a keeper bolt for the impeller that is better? Is it heavier or easier to turn? Will it load the engine more being cast vs not?
2. Do I need anything more then the stock replacement for the trigger wheel to go with the ATI damper ? - nothing is ever NEEDED just recommended. You should know the answer to this one though if you already have 250 hp...
Thanks
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08-28-2017, 11:43 AM
#105
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Location: Mount Pleasant, SC
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You can build a 400 WHP miata for cheap and it might last for a week. You will have to spend money if you want it to last.
- built engine a must (forged pistons and rods)
- head port-smoothing, polished chambers and de-shrouded valves
- BE oil pump gears
- ATI damper (ill say recommended because I don't have one for 5+ years)
- EFR 6258 and solid manifold (TSE or ArTECH)
- 3" exhaust
- intercooler (precision 650 or 300)
- injectors (FIC 650 or ID 700 or more)
- oil cooler
- programmable ECU (MS)
- solid tune
There is a such thing as too much power. A 200WHP is fun and manageable, a 300WHP miata is crazy fun and a 400WHP miata is stupid crazy. I'm going on 5 years with stupid crazy.
Hope this helps.
Edit: Once you are at that power level, then brakes, suspension, rollbar, seats and harness will keep you alive in case stupidity ensues.
- built engine a must (forged pistons and rods)
- head port-smoothing, polished chambers and de-shrouded valves
- BE oil pump gears
- ATI damper (ill say recommended because I don't have one for 5+ years)
- EFR 6258 and solid manifold (TSE or ArTECH)
- 3" exhaust
- intercooler (precision 650 or 300)
- injectors (FIC 650 or ID 700 or more)
- oil cooler
- programmable ECU (MS)
- solid tune
There is a such thing as too much power. A 200WHP is fun and manageable, a 300WHP miata is crazy fun and a 400WHP miata is stupid crazy. I'm going on 5 years with stupid crazy.
Hope this helps.
Edit: Once you are at that power level, then brakes, suspension, rollbar, seats and harness will keep you alive in case stupidity ensues.
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08-28-2017, 07:36 PM
#109
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 5,166
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The reason for non-stock trigger wheels is that they provide greater accuracy when the engine is accelerating quickly. The ECU only *knows* crank position when a tooth pulse comes through, and for spark/fuel events between tooth pulses it is estimating that position based upon what happened in the past. The more teeth there are, the more data the ECU has, the better the estimate it can make, and the less time it has estimate be syncing back onto a tooth. A stock wheel has 4 teeth, aftermarket wheels often have between 12 and 60 teeth.
In my experience with an MS3, while the NB's 4-tooth stock wheel is less than ideal, the benefits to a 12-1 or more wheel are relatively small. This is much less significant than the error inherent to a belt-driven cam angle sensor like an NA has. I run a stock 4-tooth wheel in order to make it simpler to swap back and forth between stock computer and MS3, and it hasn't proved to be a big deal.
--Ian
In my experience with an MS3, while the NB's 4-tooth stock wheel is less than ideal, the benefits to a 12-1 or more wheel are relatively small. This is much less significant than the error inherent to a belt-driven cam angle sensor like an NA has. I run a stock 4-tooth wheel in order to make it simpler to swap back and forth between stock computer and MS3, and it hasn't proved to be a big deal.
--Ian
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08-29-2017, 08:44 AM
#113
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Israel
Posts: 650
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The reason for non-stock trigger wheels is that they provide greater accuracy when the engine is accelerating quickly. The ECU only *knows* crank position when a tooth pulse comes through, and for spark/fuel events between tooth pulses it is estimating that position based upon what happened in the past. The more teeth there are, the more data the ECU has, the better the estimate it can make, and the less time it has estimate be syncing back onto a tooth. A stock wheel has 4 teeth, aftermarket wheels often have between 12 and 60 teeth.
In my experience with an MS3, while the NB's 4-tooth stock wheel is less than ideal, the benefits to a 12-1 or more wheel are relatively small. This is much less significant than the error inherent to a belt-driven cam angle sensor like an NA has. I run a stock 4-tooth wheel in order to make it simpler to swap back and forth between stock computer and MS3, and it hasn't proved to be a big deal.
--Ian
In my experience with an MS3, while the NB's 4-tooth stock wheel is less than ideal, the benefits to a 12-1 or more wheel are relatively small. This is much less significant than the error inherent to a belt-driven cam angle sensor like an NA has. I run a stock 4-tooth wheel in order to make it simpler to swap back and forth between stock computer and MS3, and it hasn't proved to be a big deal.
--Ian
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09-07-2017, 05:22 AM
#115
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That is a locating dowel, and yes, it's critical. Bolts provide clamping force to hold the head and the block together, but the locating dowels make sure that they are aligned correctly.
--Ian
--Ian
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09-07-2017, 09:15 AM
#118
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I have put 2 or 3 motors together without those without any issues. You just have to make sure you line up the head perfectly when putting it on. ARP head studs make it much easier.
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09-07-2017, 09:27 AM
#120
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Thanks shuiend !
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