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Old 05-04-2011, 06:45 PM   #21
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You want to sell the bottom end?
Possibly, But I may put a 99 head on it and sell it complete. If I decide to do something with it I will let you know via PM. I don't want to clutter up Dimistris's thread. Thanks for the interest though.
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:01 PM   #22
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Can I ask a dumb question?

The holes/divots in the counterweights on your crank is that part of balancing? and if so why do they look like that rather than nicely shaving the counterwight so it's all smooth?
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:20 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
Everything in my sig and then some. I've been collecting parts for 4 years now.

FM Wisecos (11:1, +2mm)
Further head shaving to 12:1
ETD rods as previously described
Reworked crank (lightened, conservative knife-edging, balancing)
MiataRoadster billet steel oil pump gears and pump w/external oil pressure adjuster
ATI pulley
Ishihara-Johnson full contact crank scraper
Standard MBSP
Additional baffles in the oil pan
+1mm Supertech SS intake valves
Standard sized Supertech SS exhaust valves
Supertech springs w/titanium retainers (56lbs)
Custom cams (I have 2 blank intake cams from MMD as well as 1 blank exhaust cam, so I will try two different profiles on the intake)
Jenvey ITBs with a Bob Boig cast intake adapter and a MiataRoadster phenolic gasket
RB 4-1 header (but I'm already looking for a big boy replacement)
Sounds a bit like my toy, but I don't have the ATI or miata roadster bits.

85mm, going 10.5 CP with pauter rods, block fully worked over, 88mm stroke, head has 100+ hours on it with custom intake manifold flanges and manifold to be built. Will start with 60mm ford TB for now.

Cam details:
Intake:
.430" lift .008" clearance

Exhaust:
.430" lift .010" clearance
270deg duration (@ .012)

Supertech valves, black nitride coatings
Eibach beehive valve springs
Ferrea titanium retainers and locks
Mazda comp lightweight buckets and shims

well done!
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:09 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by richyvrlimited View Post
Can I ask a dumb question?

The holes/divots in the counterweights on your crank is that part of balancing? and if so why do they look like that rather than nicely shaving the counterwight so it's all smooth?
A few reasons, It only needs balancing in one direction, Imagine that you let it spin until it stops in a low friction ball race, it will stop with the heaviest part down, only a little weight needs to be taken from this exact spot, or a whole lot from the whole area around it. The other thing is if you see his mods list hes running a crank scraper, google this and all will become clear.

Dann
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:31 AM   #25
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That engine scraper is cool. A nice little edge on the straights. I'm surprised I haven't heard of them before now.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:44 AM   #26
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Fuel economy also, along with not robbing the rest of the engine of oil, thats just sitting in the crank due to low pressure.

Dann
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:30 PM   #27
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Sounds like it's gonna be a great build.

One thing might be missing off your list and that's some vernier cams. I may be wrong but I thought that you'll need them to get your timing back on track after a head skim.
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:05 PM   #28
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not if those are custom cams.

Dann
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:14 PM   #29
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I love the way you have your crank shaved and polished. Did you polish it yourself? How much was all of the crank work?

It seems to me that your crank has a slight boat shape to it. Is that going to make it hard for your scraper to clean oil off of the crank as the narrow portion swings past the scraper?

I plan to use a crank scraper, and would love to know how difficult it is to do the install, and how long it takes.
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:27 PM   #30
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a full contact teflon scraper would fit the "boat" in the crank.
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:04 PM   #31
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With a full contact scraper, you design the teflon part around the crank/rods...so it always fits perfectly. Once broken in, there should be about 0.001" clearance between the teflon and the crank.

Here is what it looks like:



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Old 05-05-2011, 05:05 PM   #32
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For those teflon scrapers, aren't they usally "cut" in situ by the crank itself?
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:23 PM   #33
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For those teflon scrapers, aren't they usally "cut" in situ by the crank itself?
Sort of. You cut the teflon yourself, by fitting a testing teflon piece on the main caps. You slowly rotate the crank, cuting little pieces of teflon using an exacto knife, until the crank barely touches the teflon. Then you scan the testing piece in a scanner, mail the image to IJ, and they send you your scraper. Bolt it in, and after a couple of minutes of idling, the teflon is shaped exactly like the crank.
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Old 05-05-2011, 06:23 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by nitrodann View Post
not if those are custom cams.

Dann
AAHHHHHH I see.

And as for the scrapers, you learn something new every day, they sound like a great idea for built heads.
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Old 05-05-2011, 06:28 PM   #35
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Built heads? A crank scraper is installed inside the short block.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:04 PM   #36
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Things are getting a bit fuzzy this end but knowledge is still sinking in
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:37 PM   #37
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Yes I have seen them before. I still would like to know about the slight boat you have in the crank couterweights. Does it just scrape the end of the counter weights or the sides as well.

I am not so sure I fully understand how much of the crank is 'scraped'.
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:01 PM   #38
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Centrifugal force will fling oil to the furthest part of the blade so it looks like about 1/2" is being scraped.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:52 PM   #39
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I wish that were totally true, the low pressure area surrounding the crank is the reason why we need a scraper, rather than be atomised by the crank it remains as droplets and doesnt 'want' to leave the low pressure area due to the higher pressure in the sump. Im not an expert on this action but id have to say not all of it will be scraped at the end due to centripetal force.

Im still jealous of the scraper tho.

Dann
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:43 PM   #40
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I'd suggest having the bores sonic checked if you haven't assembled it yet. I sonic checked one for Sav a while back that was at 85.5mm and found it to have wall thickness as low as .049". A .5mm bore size difference is only about .010" per wall, so not really enough to give enough thickness for performance use. It's possible the block I measured had been inaccurately machined (the front walls were thinner than the back) but it's equally possible that's just how the blocks were cast. If you decide to do it pay attention to the wall just below the deck area, that's where it was thinnest.
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