Shoot, I'm pretty sure the wife will blow a gasket if I start another car project before I finish rebuilding our deck anyway. I know what it's like to have a hundred projects going at once.

So are you currently at 4.75? If so that's fairly high, and yes a ~4" will help in the rear, but that's really low. You most likely have bent control arms in the front. That plus lower ride height will help. But those bent control arms are also usually tracked cars afaik.

Ordered a set of camber bolts & ELBJ's from 949. Let's see if we can get this alignment fixed up. It feels like butt.

Yep. 4.5 front, 4.75 rear. I think I'll drop it .25 to try & get .3* more rear camber, and the ELBJ's should get me the extra 1* front camber I'm after. I wouldn't be surprised if something is bent. Judging by the condition of my frame rails & pinch welds, it looks like the PO decided to go dorifto over some hinkelsteins.

I'd get new lower control arms with the extended ball joints then. Or not. Either way don't sacrifice ride height for a little camber.

Swapped in ELBJ's & new eccentrics in the front. I still need to swap out the rear eccentrics. The vertical bolt attaching the ball joint to the control arm was jacked up on both sides: one was striped, and the other was completely loose. Not sure how that would affect alignment geometry, but it couldn't be good.

For anyone who has run both the 949 street and dual duty alignments, do you recommend one over the other for DD on meh tires? I'm only running 195/50 all seasons on 15x7's, which makes me think the dual duty would be overkill.

Went to replace the rear eccentric bolts, and it looks like I've spring a leak in my differential. Half shaft gaskets are only 2k miles old. Oh well.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...361f80112b.jpg

Still playing the alignment game. After new eccentric bolts and ELBJ'S, I have an entirely different weird alignment:

Front camber -3*
Front caster 4.5*
Front toe 1/8"

Rear camber -1.4*
Rear toe 1/8"

I'm running at 4.5" front/4.75" rear, with a 1"RB bar in the front & 12mm OEM bar in the rear.

The shop says they can't get the front camber any more positive, or the rear any more negative.

Aside from eating my front tires for breakfast, what can I expect from running such a large difference in camber front to rear?

I hate having to throw money at the problem, but I'm starting to think the only way to get my front and rear camber where I want them is to buy adjustable rear upper control arms, and raise the ride height an inch.

Risky snap oversteer.

Should have bought two of these for suspension work years ago...

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-.../dp/B00857SKZ2

You're going to eat your front tires from the toe, not the camber. Zero it out

I got a set of Paco adjustable RUCA's, and I've been fiddling around with my alignment a bit more. As of right now, I'm at about -2.9* camber front, -2.57* rear. Ride height is about 5" front with .25" rake.

That's very good. What's the toe with those settings?

Good question. I haven't zeroed it back out for a couple weeks. Maybe I'll have some time today weather permitting.

OK, I finally got some time into the miata today. First, I fiddled with my alignment. Here's where it's at now:
Front toe: 0
Front camber -2.78*
Caster: 4.5* (maybe- haven't checked it since last alignment)
Rear total toe: in 1/8"
Rear camber: -2.5*

I also did some vanity projects: I put on an OEM R package style front air dam, a shorty antenna, and new leather boots for shifter & ebrake. I refinished the original wood Nardi furniture and put it back on.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e70e3c8397.jpg


Last but not least, I plumbed my crank case breathers with A/O separators in preparation for turbo. I added an extra check valve in line with the OEM PCV valve. It looks Frankensteined mostly because it is. If it works well, & the routing works out, I'll make it more permanent.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...32a73919bc.jpg

Oil captured after about a month
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4b6a4441af.jpg

Also did a couple maintenance items today. The starter motor was starting to sound horrible, so I switched to a new NB style starter.

I also scored two good door actuator assemblies, greased them up with Honda grease, and ditched my old slow actuators. Like frogs in a dynamite pond.

Double post

I decided to take the plunge and swap my perfectly good head for a VICS/VVT setup. I've ordered all the parts I need except for... let's see... a tap for mounting the crank sensor on the oil pump, and a pull up resistor for the RPM signal in my DIYPNP. I'll be controlling the VVT with the standalone box. I'm also going to LS2 truck coils when I make the swap.

I would highly suggest just selling the DIYPNP and getting a MS3X instead. It probably won't be to much more then the VVT tuner after you factor in the cost of that box, but will have a ton of nice features and tuneabilty over the MS2/VVT tuner combo.