|
Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1411217)
wackbards, did you use a high volume oil pump? I might be doing the same things if you got away without it.
|
Spark checks out OK:
A-1 B-3 C-4 D-2 |
Fuel did NOT check out! I had cyl 1&3 backwards. Now it's injecting:
A-1 B-3 C-4 D-2 Still no start. Battery needs a charge bad though. Crank RPM was ~150RPM. |
The timing wheel is facing the right way. You can see the TDC marker detent facing convex side aft towards the motor.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...02b999ab9b.jpg I still need to check my timing to see if it's crazy. |
right trigger wheel settings?
|
Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1411435)
right trigger wheel settings?
You tell me |
Originally Posted by wackbards
(Post 1411454)
|
Ok. I'll fiddle with it tonight & see if something sticks
|
Originally Posted by wackbards
(Post 1411462)
Ok. I'll fiddle with it tonight & see if something sticks
|
Yep. PNP pro. I think that the TS input is ok because I'm getting a signal from the cam and crank in the high speed composite logger. I'm not confident that I wired the cam or crank sensors correctly. Is there a way to discern that from the composite log? Is it possible to wire it wrong such that you get a signal but it's... inverted or something?
|
I'm using a MSPNP Pro as well to run the 2003 VVT engine in my 1990 NA. I can check my spark settings today after work to see what mine look like. Maybe it'll help.
|
|
That was it! We have combustion. It was an ugly first start, but it runs.
Cooling fan kicked on maybe during, but definitely after the engine died even though coolant temp was 60*. Something funky there. Need to get on the IAC & timing. I got my weekend cut out! Thanks everyone for the support. |
I would say about 50% of the time I can't get an engine to start in a NA after doing a swap it is because I got fuel lines backwards.
|
OK, no tach signal on the dash gauge. I spliced blue/yel to black/white at the OE igniter per the instructions in the VVT swap sticky, so I expected to get dash signal. This is what DIY has to say about tach out on the pnppro in the manual:
"J5: Tach Out on Connector J3, Pin 4I (1995.5+ Miata Only) When this jumper is installed, the signal TACHOUT will be transmitted on pin 4I on the main ECU connector (J3). This should only be used on 95.5 1.8L Miatas." I didn't install this jumper. Should I? Does this circuit want a pullup resistor? *EDIT* what DIY labels as pin 4I on the ECU is pin 2I on the OE ECU, which is the black/white sig out to the igniter. Guess that answers that question. |
The fan control was set to kick on if AC is on. There's no AC, and gawd knows what wiring is left from it. The ECU must think AC is on. I've turned the fan AC assist and the AC idle up function off, and we'll see what that does.
|
Because I adapted a crank sensor to a '94 oil pump that wasn't designed for a crank sensor, I had to use trigger wizard to correct my base timing. It was retarded by 5.5*. Things are getting better. Baby steps! Baby steps...
|
|
Well, it's running right. I had a bunch of stuff I had to fix today. First, I had the fuel lines backwards. Then I had the AC fan settings all jacked up. Then I had forgot the tach out jumper. Then I had forgot the fpr vacuum line. Then I had a problem with cyl 4 injector not firing. I ended up having to toggle the sequential settings in TS.
Also, I think the pinout documentation DIY has in the 9093 pnppro manual for sequential injection might be backwards. That was a fun game. |
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:11 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands