hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Use one of these for power instead of hacking your OEM harness:



You don't have to go to Amazon. Readily available at your local parts store.

BRGSEinTX

Hornetball thanks for the suggestion...thats kind of what I was hoping to do (like one of those power adapter blocks or something even).

But would I need one of those for each wire? And I guess you just run that to the fuse that uses the 12v power in the fuse box under the dash and if you need for extra load just run a spare fuse in it the same size?

I will need to be able to run the two gauges, but also want the ability to add more gauges down the road (oil psi, oil temp, voltmeter, etc).

Im pretty confident as a 9/10 on mechanical stuff, but wiring/electronics Im more of a 6/10 as I can do it no problem, but knowing whats what or best practices Im a bit wet on.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

It just plugs into your fuse panel and gets power from the switched 12VDC bus bar. Original fuse goes into the slot closest to the fuse panel to service the original circuit. Then you add a fuse sized for the components you want to run in the outer slot and wire that stuff into the pigtail. You can, of course, power more than one component on that pigtail. Pretty simple, when you see it, you'll get it.

BRGSEinTX

hornet, thanks for the advice. I picked up that exact part from AutoZone and a few 10A fuses for it. Now to find which fuse to pop it in on the panel and Ill have my 2 necessary 12v sources. Then couple the two grounds and the gauges should be set!

Since I over drilled the hole to the oil pan, I picked up the 1/2" NPT tap from a supply store a little bit ago since my dumbass was using NF rated taps..i didn't even think about it. And now I have a 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting as well (was a 5/8"NF -10AN that i initially was using).

Ill have to run the 5/8" hole to an 11/16", then the 1/2"NPT tap should thread it as desired. I was confusing myself with the standard sizes and the tap sizes and getting them mixed up. Plus I just didn't think when I matched the fitting up to my initial 9/16" diameter hole and though 'that's too small'...I hate being a dumbass sometimes :/

Oh I also need to run the IAT wires over to the AFM connector as stated, that'll be fairly easy I expect..just gotta figure out which connectors to use to plug them into it and wrap it up well to protect it from the elements.

BRGSEinTX

hole is drilled and tapped.
running mineral spirits through it now and waiting for it to drain.

gauges are all that's left. then tighten everything down, triple check its all connected and bolted down, and put in fresh oil and fire her up! maybe not tonight though, if not by tomorrow I hope!

BRGSEinTX

well the car has been done for a while now.
however, Im getting no fuel pump activity.
It shows on MS that its on until I go to crank over the engine.
Ive got 12v at the diagnostic box (jumping the grnd and fp connections). when I crank it that drops to 9.xxv.
Ive got 7.xxv to the connector on top of the fuel pump, and 6.xxv when I crank it.
Shouldn't those be higher?

I cleaned the ground connections under the brake booster and any others I could find.
Is it possible the AIT sensor wires are not on the right ports of the AFM connector and that would cause the fuel pump to not activate? I thought I read somewhere that the AFM assisted in the process of running the fuel pump when the flap door was open (and air was coming in).

Im at a loss. It is so close to starting but without fuel, that wont happen :(

BRGSEinTX

so grounding the fuel pump with the diag box I can hear the pump run constantly.
I tried starting it and it started right up!
unfortunately it didn't stay running because it was still grounded..

so if it works when the jumper is on the FP/GND of the diag box, but not at all when trying to start it normally, is it most likely the FUEL PUMP relay?

BRGSEinTX

ANNNNNNNNNND its running...beautifully I might add!
I still have the jumper in there for now, secured. I will track this demon down.

But obviously the clutch isn't going to hold, I barely hit 4-5psi and its toast. Holy god does it sound and drive bad ***. My tuner was amazed at how solid my motor was at 180k miles. We had to remove the back section of my custom 3" exhaust because it was hitting the axle (the flanges on it) as they spun. Started marking up the exhaust. But she's running good to where I can drive her and the next phase is to get the clutch/flywheel in, then swap the diff out.

Ill never be able to drive a stock Miata again...lol

Filipe Dias

I know that feeling. I drove a friend’s car a couple of weeks ago, a bone stock 91 and my god was it slow.

Congratulations on the running car, now fix those little things and make sure you tight every nut and bolt in the next few weeks just to make sure everything is tight

Greasemonkey2000

iTrader: (3)

Congrats on getting it running! Although "speed bumps" suck when you hit them, when you over come them it makes the success that much sweeter.