93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#1781
I agree whole heartedly but if our barrels are the same(15x8) then it really looks like there would be no space to do so. even with spacers.
and currently I'm tapped out on buying new shiny things for the car both financially and mentally.
Reason I got the Konig Flatouts was the price of them. I got a hell of a deal for them.
That is so stupid, holy hell. $325 for a catch can?? If they sell them at that price then people are paying money for it to justify the price...mind is blown.
and currently I'm tapped out on buying new shiny things for the car both financially and mentally.
Reason I got the Konig Flatouts was the price of them. I got a hell of a deal for them.
Its not all that expensive when you compare it to this one...
Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can, by Mishimoto
Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can, by Mishimoto
That is so stupid, holy hell. $325 for a catch can?? If they sell them at that price then people are paying money for it to justify the price...mind is blown.
#1785
Keep in mind there is a difference between an Oil separator and a catch can. That Mishimoto piece is actually a really well designed separator, as is the Moroso.
Most of us just need a good catch can that won't spill because we're likely venting the can into the atmosphere. We aren't building machines that need to meet OEM emissions standards so we don't bother recirculating the cleaned air back into the intake system.
The primary function of a catch can is to "catch" oil and vapors from your PVC system to avoid dumping these contaminates back into your intake where it it can build up or even worse, increase your chances of detonation. This is where quality separator systems are most useful.
That being said... I don't recommend using just any old can out there. Other quality catch cans are designed to keep the fluids INSIDE the can and be easily accessed for when you need to drain it.
So I'd say things to look for are the following:
1. A can that's filled with a baffling material or one that can be opened to install said material (fuel cell foam, nylon shower luffa.. whatever floats your boat.)
2. Volume and accessibility for draining.
3. A level gauge (often in the form of a clear hose on the side of the can)
4. Proper diameter fittings. The secondary function of a catch can is to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage.
Most of us just need a good catch can that won't spill because we're likely venting the can into the atmosphere. We aren't building machines that need to meet OEM emissions standards so we don't bother recirculating the cleaned air back into the intake system.
The primary function of a catch can is to "catch" oil and vapors from your PVC system to avoid dumping these contaminates back into your intake where it it can build up or even worse, increase your chances of detonation. This is where quality separator systems are most useful.
That being said... I don't recommend using just any old can out there. Other quality catch cans are designed to keep the fluids INSIDE the can and be easily accessed for when you need to drain it.
So I'd say things to look for are the following:
1. A can that's filled with a baffling material or one that can be opened to install said material (fuel cell foam, nylon shower luffa.. whatever floats your boat.)
2. Volume and accessibility for draining.
3. A level gauge (often in the form of a clear hose on the side of the can)
4. Proper diameter fittings. The secondary function of a catch can is to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage.
#1788
Saying that. I do wants it, maybe even pine for the uniformity of it, but I've gotta be sensible at a certain point!
Perfecting the car will come over the coming months. Just not now when it is my "slow season" at the bakery.
Soviet. That does make more sense but I'd have to sell my wheels and then buy 6uls or some other compatible wheel to make it work.
#1789
I got the 99 throttle body in the mail tonight. I'll slap that bad boy on tomorrow.
Holy crap I'm glad I listened to you guys. It is so much less bulky and the IAT assembly is tiny in comparison. Should make the intercooler pipe not rub at all!
Slightly annoyed I need to wire brush the hell out of it as I did the 1.6 TB.
Holy crap I'm glad I listened to you guys. It is so much less bulky and the IAT assembly is tiny in comparison. Should make the intercooler pipe not rub at all!
Slightly annoyed I need to wire brush the hell out of it as I did the 1.6 TB.
#1791
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I got the 99 throttle body in the mail tonight. I'll slap that bad boy on tomorrow.
Holy crap I'm glad I listened to you guys. It is so much less bulky and the IAT assembly is tiny in comparison. Should make the intercooler pipe not rub at all!
Slightly annoyed I need to wire brush the hell out of it as I did the 1.6 TB.
Holy crap I'm glad I listened to you guys. It is so much less bulky and the IAT assembly is tiny in comparison. Should make the intercooler pipe not rub at all!
Slightly annoyed I need to wire brush the hell out of it as I did the 1.6 TB.
#1798
Ahh wait, are you talking about the catch can and not the radiator overflow? If so, he has a point, much cheaper
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mi...i-bk/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mi...i-bk/overview/
#1800
If you're going to spend a dickload of money on a catch can setup, there is no substitute:
Universal Dual Catch Can Kit
Universal Dual Catch Can Kit