Does AEM have a WB software that comes with it to program the controller like the LC-1 Does? I know with my LC1 I went into the LM programmer software that comes with it and adjusted the settings to get TS and the gauge to read properly. Also Im sure its been mentioned but in TS go to Tools> Calibrate AFR> choose Custom> and manually input your settings instead of trying to use a predefined calibration.

Also how are you running the vtps aside from running a wire to 1L?

Edit Should be something like

5vref to 1N
TPS signal wire on 2L
the B ground from the main sensor ground point.

AEM comes with voltage values that you can plug into the AFR table calibration but that hasn't helped much. The ground on the gauge is run to 2A(MS3X ground). There is a lot of noise in the gauge, or that may be from the gauge & MS not matching.

Wired the connector to the stock 3 wires on the harness. I think it may be a faulty wire and I'm considering running new wires all the way back to the ECU rather than then tying them into the old wires.

Are you running the wideband through the DB15 connector?

DB12 for my MS3x

My reaction after rewiring the TPS

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399182692

After calibrating it stayed at a constant 0% with no oscillation at all. Also after cycling the key off and on it stayed constant without further calibration.

So for those that have a 3 wire vtps the correct wiring is
5V to 1N
TPS to 4L
Ground to 4C or 4D

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399182692

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399182692

Perrrrrrfect!

Oh also! Think I found the source of my AEM AFR gauge and TS gauge being different.

Accidently wired the analog+ wire to 4L instead of 4N...not sure how I did that! Hopefully this was the issue at hand. Wiring going to my TPS instead of Lambda, you may now commence your /facepalm!

very nice. we need 25+psi videos like....yesterday :party:

as long as my afr problems are gone I hope to.

I havent messed with the original tuning the P.O had on the car, so I'm hoping it will run ok.

*edit* Also getting my fender roller on Monday so it will be ready to drive, just need to get a safety inspection and an alignment.

Post a screenshot of the spark and fuel maps.

Here you are, let me know what you think.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399237078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399237078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399237078

Can you post the ignition timing table as well?

I don't like your VE table, otherwise everything else looks pretty decent to my eye.

here is a link to the tune if anyone wants to look at it. Considering I'm still trying to figure out what everything means I'm more than happy to have criticism applied

https://www.dropbox.com/s/32fhta65jhfhklb/Jeffbucc.msq

Also thanks for taking a look at the tables Vtec, much appreciated!

Uploading a video soonish(50 more minutes for a 1 minutes video...) to get what I'm talking about here but as soon as I blip the throttle it'll rev and hang, then suddenly it'll ramp up all the way to 3700 rpms. I'm guessing this is throttle tip in settings?

This is after WUE is over and it has entered closed loop idle. After adjusting the TB screw I have a consistent 1k idle

Here is what the gauges look like after WUE. Still some slight variation in the AEM/TS AFR gauges.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399250119

Video. Sorry its crappy. Last 20 seconds are the idle ramp up after about 5% throttle input. Light smoke coming out of exhaust and slight backfire when it ramps up the rpms

Pulled my plugs to see how they were doing and found some fouling on 2 and grey/whitish burn on the other 2.

Reason I pulled them was that I never adjusted the gap on them after the car was wrecked. They are all around .20 gap. I have 4 new plugs I have gapped to .40 ready to put in. After reading a fair amount it seems a good gap to start(correct me if I am wrong).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399261113

You just reminded me I should probably do my plugs. Have some new ones sitting around.

has an aftermarket ECU that controls the idle speed...




...manually fucks with the throttle bleed screw to set idle speed and throws all the CL/PID tuning and rpm targets to the wind.