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-   -   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/93-miata-stolen-flipped-build-thread-75474/)

aidandj 09-14-2015 07:04 PM

<p><img src="http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/720x540/80-13469_401738279023_596899023_426224_1_57efcf12c769 1b22fbec0e5e6f25e04bb25e474b.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

Jeffbucc 09-14-2015 07:08 PM

Pretty. The engine paint I used when I first had the block out looks fabulous still so I'm not going to waste time/money on sandblasting/powdercoating.

rleete 09-14-2015 07:42 PM

Dammit! You still haven't found out what those pieces were from. It is going to drive me crazy until I know.

Jeffbucc 09-14-2015 07:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I haven't a damn clue rleete. I've gone over every piece of anything connected to the engine trying to figure out if it could have come from that or not and nothing makes sense, or at least nothing has a ball bearing type "surround/cage" that it could have come from.

Trust me, it is driving me nuts as well. I hate mysteries.

Tell me this is normal...please, it has all the irregularities of something not designed to be there...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442274750

aidandj 09-14-2015 07:54 PM

<p>Yes, that is normal. Threads about it pop up every once in a while with people freaking out.</p>

Jeffbucc 09-14-2015 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by aidandj (Post 1266470)
<p>Yes, that is normal. Threads about it pop up every once in a while with people freaking out.</p>

I about lost my shit for a second there. Seems like they could have made that hole a little smoother

aidandj 09-14-2015 07:56 PM

<p>I think its funny. &quot;Lets scare the shit out of everyone who opens this engine for the first time&quot;</p><p>I would totally do shit like that.</p>

fivehundredton 09-14-2015 07:59 PM

Man, I love this build... Read every page. What about going with the "left in" theory on the mysterious parts?

rleete 09-14-2015 08:09 PM

Ha. That hole has freaked out dozens of people over the years. I can just imagine the engineer doing it on purpose, and giggling every time he thought about it.

Jeffbucc 09-14-2015 08:16 PM

I'm guessing it is just an oil return hole? My dremmel hand is getting itchy haha.

So I have ARP head studs and ARP2000 bolts for the rods. Any reason to get ARP Main studs as well? Looks like they didn't see a point when they originally built the motor but maybe they didn't want to line bore the block?

dcamp2 09-14-2015 08:20 PM


Originally Posted by Jeffbucc (Post 1266082)
While I'm trying to figure out my next move, which I believe to be the following:

1. obtain running stock junkyard motor
2. dump it in
3. turn down boost:hatecat:
4. drive car without problems
5. give curly 6 months to rebuild the 'nice' engine
6. swap back when curly is done

bummer about the car- hopefully it gets up and running again soon

Jeffbucc 09-14-2015 08:37 PM

More like wire wastegate open. Even on 7psi springs the EFR has made very pretty ventilation carnage.

Was it 99MX5 that blew his block on startup?

And now that I know the block and crank have no wear, and are easily reconditioned, a rebuild will suffice.

aidandj 09-14-2015 09:24 PM

<p>Ship to TSE for build?&nbsp;</p>

curly 09-14-2015 10:14 PM

You don't need a line bore for ARP main studs. I put them in with drill set to 5 ft/lbs with a tiny bit of the ARP ultra-lube, then torque the nuts to 60 ft/lbs, with the lube on either side of the washer and on the threads.

Generally if you put the lube on the stud, it'll get on the bottom of the washer when you slide it on, then a tiny bit more will get the top of the washer, and there's plenty left to lube the threads for the nut. This is also why you do an oil change after ~20 miles of driving.

To give you an idea of how much lube I use, ARP sends 2 packages with any of their stud kits. 2 packages will do the entire engine, which includes the cam bolts, head studs, main studs, and MBSP bolts. Which is everything (I think) I use the stuff on.

Jeffbucc 09-15-2015 12:23 AM

6 Attachment(s)
Amazon had a really good deal on their Ultratorque lube a couple months back and I got a 10oz container of it for like $15. Figured it can't hurt when I need it, and can when I don't have it.

Trying to get a lot of this crap done so that when I do get the block back I can just slot it all in and get it ready to assemble.

Looking for some of these gaskets on the oil pump to rebuild it/change the seals/gaskets. Until I can find them, I won't go to crazy on the oil pump.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442290993

Block in real good shape

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442290993

as are the crankshaft bearing caps

Attachment 237583

Finally got the water return all cleaned up and the rust off the nipple

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442290993

Oil intake pipe cover thingy and bolts

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442290993

Rear main seal seriously degunked(it was bad)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442290993

curly 09-15-2015 12:42 AM

Mixing manifold nipple is pressed in steel. Paint it!

Also make sure you mic the crank and plasti gauge the oil clearances.

Jeffbucc 09-15-2015 12:50 AM


Originally Posted by curly (Post 1266565)
Mixing manifold nipple is pressed in steel. Paint it!

Also make sure you mic the crank and plasti gauge the oil clearances.

I had the head machinist mic the crank for me to make sure I was ok using standard sized bearings

1.9663" on the main bearings
1.7691" on the rod bearings.

but yeah when I get everything I'll figure out how to use the plastigauge

Jeffbucc 09-15-2015 10:07 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by rleete (Post 1265954)
Looks like a grind mark from balancing.

Those pieces have been bugging the crap out of me. I've been scouring exploded diagrams and parts lists, and I just don't see where it's a part of anything that should be inside an engine. The best I can come up with is something that got injested.


Originally Posted by EO2K (Post 1265950)
Seriously, I'm at a loss as to what that might be. It DOES look like a plastic cage for a set of ball bearings but there are not ball bearings in a BP. There are however ball bearings inside an EFR... :noes:

Plastic or metal, ferrous or not (stick a magnet to it) will also help with identification. I mean, if its plastic that's not going to help, but you get the idea. in4answers.


Originally Posted by curly (Post 1265935)
The pieces of metal are probably bearing material, they look horrible.

It almost looks like those three other pieces could fit together to create some trianglular shape with a beveled circle in it, maybe you'd recognize it if you put the pieces together. That's going to slowly kill me until I know what it is.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442326078


Hnnnnggghhhh oh god that felt good to figure out.

Thank Bryan, no, he didn't figure it out, but he gave cause to an errant thought path that brought me to the conclusion.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442326078

After cracking the 2860 CHRA (holy shit balls that C clip was a challenge)

And parsing the volcanic ash that was my turbo...hello Mr. random ball bearing, what are you doing out there!

Attachment 237582

Opening it up further I found the bearing races in pieces. Sitting in the oil pan for who knows how long must have turned them black.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442326078

I'm gonna go out to eat dinner tonight in solving this mystery.

18psi 09-15-2015 10:12 AM

WOW !!

I think every single one of us would have wondered about this for the rest of our lives otherwise.

Very cool (and disturbing that all that crap made it into your engine)

Jeffbucc 09-15-2015 10:15 AM


Originally Posted by 18psi (Post 1266628)
Very cool (and disturbing that all that crap made it into your engine)

Which leads me to believe this was the cause to all my engine issues since getting the EFR setup.

Although, where the bearings are, the only path they could make it to the pan is through the oil drain line. So maybe all that shit didn't touch anything in the engine.


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