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VDO Vision series gauges and AEM UEGO moved to the glove box. Also installed a 12v USB adapter in the center console to charge my GoPro on the go.
https://images2.imgbox.com/63/b1/EQdimBsI_o.jpg |
Pictures from the mt.net run at MATG on Saturday from US129Photos:
https://images2.imgbox.com/aa/7b/QhOGTWWB_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/f8/f0/sKADu1bI_o.jpg |
Pictures by Danny Sawyer from Miatas Before the Gap at AMP:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/861/2...102115cd_b.jpg IMG_7179 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/938/4...21dfed05_b.jpg IMG_7187 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/938/3...a852472a_b.jpg IMG_7509 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/4...d1204a73_b.jpg IMG_7506 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr |
Four years after building the motor and driving around on my amateur tune, I decided to let a professional really dial everything in. I'm pretty happy with the results.
Current state of motor: NB2 block, 11:1 Supertech pistons (+1mm), Manley rods, East Street Miata Spec Miata head (pre-short radius machining rule), stock cams and springs, SuperMiata crank damper, Garage Star aluminum pulleys, Skunk2 TB, flattop intake (ported to match S2 TB and some casting clean up, custom 2.5" intake, Racing Beat header, 2.25" test pipe and Magnaflow exhaust, Flyin Miata 10.3lb flywheel, and SuperMiata organic sport clutch Thanks to Carma Performance in Nashville,TN: https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/da/KzQobA4p_o.jpg Dyno plot (Dyno Dynamics): https://images2.imgbox.com/ff/d4/5KguKvF0_o.jpg I'm really leaning on dropping this motor into my race car project that is on going and running GLTC and ST5. If so, I'll likely add a Boundary oil pump and valve springs for extra protection. With a 170whp goal (as measured on a Dynojet), I won't really have to touch much on this motor to be right in the sweet spot. |
My hood struts left me with a squeaking hood at idle for years. They didn't travel over-center so they were always pushing the hood up slighlty causing the latch to rub the loop and squeak from the vibrator BP right under it. Well squeak no more. Aero Catches were installed. Only took me 4 weeks between dad responsibilities and a Champ Car race. The underside was "Death by 1000 Cuts" due to my previous work for the over the radiator intercooler pipes:
https://images2.imgbox.com/04/b6/zpRvS8hr_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/fa/8c/H6x4vobD_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/da/34/bvPSoE1p_o.jpg I've been following GLTC races to plan my build. Well the speeds have gone up enough that a NA BP is no longer a competitive option. The top Miatas are running K24 and the NA BP's are in the mid pack. I briefly looked at the K24Z3, but the DBW required to detune the motor enough for GLTC is a costly option. Soooo I picked this up: https://images2.imgbox.com/97/df/5zJvstTw_o.jpeg https://images2.imgbox.com/66/51/b6l1sFNa_o.jpeg A unused Kraken manifold and EFR downpipe. The plan is to slap this and a EFR6258 onto a stock BP4W in my garage and run a boost curve for good mid range and taper the boost to reduce the power. Probably run a few choke points to keep it around 180-190whp with a ~225whp map for fun events. |
Gonna stay with AEM ECU?
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1554175)
Gonna stay with AEM ECU?
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Long time no update. A quick update. Sold the hi-compression bottom end to a forum member. Went over the BP4W to determine its health and all is well. Dropped everything and started working on intercooler mounting, piping, and ducting. I deleted a bunch of pictures off my phone before I uploaded them anywhere but Instagram. I'm too lazy to copy them from there so here is a basic run down.
Intercooler is a Vibrant core (same as Fab9 Stage 1) and Lars dropped off the modified Kraken downpipe that mates up to one of his great looking 3" exhausts. I mounted the intercooler even with the core support to possibly give the radiator a chance at getting fresh air. The Racing Beat bumper has a huge opening, so I'll likely make some block offs to choke it down some. A pink special @matrussell122 / @Scaxx front bumper bar really make the ducting much easier to make. I also made a separate intercooler duct to reduce the amount of air bypassing it and allowing cleaner air over the top. https://images2.imgbox.com/c8/27/Q8nDEAu1_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/31/03/onrIrwqc_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/f3/48/sm4T0aty_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/d3/d5/hg16xJSn_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/1e/77/OLN0VhAo_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/2f/22/AcxHparU_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/f0/50/QZ7TzYJo_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/49/c6/oXEv6Xas_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/c2/d7/LN1rVqik_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/12/d1/pmERAhsf_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/1c/11/YkWJZ5e1_o.jpg |
I got the car running on the stock injectors. However I still had a lot of ducting to work on so I left the radiator empty. Had to use the bumper bar to pull the car up on the trailer with my winch.
https://images2.imgbox.com/81/2a/511CHVQd_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/1d/e0/EHPE5V2R_o.jpg Because I don't has a lot of fabrication tools, I have to take my car over to a friend who had a welder to make my intercooler piping. https://images2.imgbox.com/46/8e/fdxnlclj_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/29/b1/lEy9kR0S_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/5b/6d/YOitLjWh_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/3a/09/Pas5amCI_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/9d/be/HRMSNLKY_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/22/f7/Wo4RJujK_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/27/VoimnEo4_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/75/d6/tRvz2bP6_o.jpg |
Orginally I had planned to move the oil cooler out of the heat exchanger stack to the radiator core support (as seen in earlier pictures). It was going to get a seperate duct from the bumper to feed it and vent through the hood. This was going to be my "street" car setup. However after some deliberation, I decided to go full track car. Mostly because if I needed to go to a bigger oil cooler, there was no room for a bigger cooler on the core support. So the headlight assemblies are coming out. On the passenger side will be the Setrab 13 row oil cooler. I made a duct for the cooler and it will be fed by a home made turn signal intake. The inlet and duct will be sealed as to hopefully not effect the underhood pressure. If its not efficient enough, I'll look at venting the headlight lid or venting and ducting the headlight lid.
https://images2.imgbox.com/0a/b3/WXxVshTf_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/b2/6a/Ji2WTqZs_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/e8/KtEUaRnP_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/c9/13/Y7ml1KOz_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/d8/a1/ia5hEqqX_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/32/ea/3DnjHtvH_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/61/6e/RrVW5Q17_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/69/e2/jrCRW60Y_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/85/ec/ma1AiocM_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/2d/76/DENBKwbN_o.jpg |
I'm interested to see where you go with this.
You had messaged me on IG about it, and I'm still happy to help if you need something made. Either way, I'm here to follow the progress! |
Sick build, your IC setup and ducting is next level. I need to redo mine after seeing this!
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