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95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap
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So around 8 months ago I bought a 95m for a fairly hearty price, not cheap but hey m-tax :hatecat: , this is me trying to go boost for cheap.
First step was engine management, I could have band aided but I wanted to be an MS baller, I know people hate gen 1 megasquirts, especially the DIY kits. Picked up an ms1 standalone from on here for 200$, trying to demod it and rebuild it is an a$$, but i kinda like electronics so it equals out. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455058442 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455058442 Spent another 40$ on cables and 40$ on a stimulator, should be here tonight! Next I scooped up four supra 7mge injectors for 35$, work great I think, should be 305, not running any extra ordinary boost levels https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455058442 Was going to try a k03 diy setup but when a 300$ cash option for an ebay t3 arrived i couldn't pass up. For 300$ got an intercooler, turbo, piping, down pipe and some other use full stuff. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455058442 Easiest turbo to clock..ever and thats where i stand now, ilovetacotaco should be seen soon. Somewhere inbetween this i got an innovate mtx-l wideband for 150$ thanks to amazon :bowrofl: |
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Update, wired car in for ms1, can't figure out why it's only running on 2 cylinders. Hopefully I can figure this out. Parents think I've some how turned my car into a roller by pulling the stock ECU out. Any way picked up an act 4 puck unsprung clutch
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456109020 I do love tacotaco https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456109020 Going to get the car running Na, do injectors then big cho cho stuff. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456109020 Fmic mounting More to come hopefully when my car isn't a 0.9 L, thank God I still can take the bus to highschool |
I appreciate the fact you're in highschool and you're not slamming your car to the ground. Keep it up.
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Originally Posted by Scaxx
(Post 1309839)
I appreciate the fact you're in highschool and you're not slamming your car to the ground. Keep it up.
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Got the car up and running on all 4, then I believe the head gasket then proceeded to blow. More "while youre in there mods" ��
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What grade are you in? I'm a Junior and I'm doing my clutch then putting my turbo kit on. Freaking awesome build dude
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Originally Posted by TwoTone
(Post 1310963)
What grade are you in? I'm a Junior and I'm doing my clutch then putting my turbo kit on. Freaking awesome build dude
New radiator will be bought soon. Car is running on bigger injectors, from what I read I should be able to run 10-12 psi which is enough for now. New rota concaves and 205 federals should be coming soon too |
Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1311515)
Junior
New radiator will be bought soon. Car is running on bigger injectors, from what I read I should be able to run 10-12 psi which is enough for now. New rota concaves and 205 federals should be coming soon too |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1311566)
Those injectors won't get you anywhere near 10-12psi.
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1311567)
Could they see me to 200 whp with a professional tune, I know they max out at 85% duty cycle. How much boost could I run reliably with them?
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I would buy some flow force injectors. Not worth spending any time or energy on anything less then ev14 injectors. Been there, done that, wasting money for on shitty is not worth it.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1311599)
I would buy some flow force injectors. Not worth spending any time or energy on anything less then ev14 injectors. Been there, done that, wasting money for on shitty is not worth it.
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1311600)
its tempting, but is there any other way around it? I want 200ish rwhp and that's it. ill probably stay there for a long time, also would the ev14's even be worth installing on a stock fuel pump? Sorry, I hate to ask for advice and not like the answer
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1311604)
You are running an ms1. Idle control alone on that sucks, especially if you have ac. You want the best injectors you can get. You can diy the mustang injectors and save some money if you want. No you don't need to change out the fuel pump. I mean you can spend $75-100 on rx7 injectors, then another $100 sending them out to get cleaned. You will be into them for nearly $200 which is slightly less then diy ev14s. You will also idle at 12:1 afr to have your anywhere idle anywhere near smooth. I have ran stock injectors, rx7 injectors, rc550 injectors, dw1000, flowforce injectors, and id1000's. I won't touch anything less then ev14 injectors. It's not worth the time, money, or hassle. Buy good injectors once, never have to worry about them again.
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1311611)
Alright you got me. You guys are really good at making other people spend money.
You have the eBay t3 with the v-band outlet correct? If so it will require cutting of the rear shelf to make it work. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1311612)
If you had any idea of how much I have spent on my primary miata over the past 11 years you would cry.
You have the eBay t3 with the v-band outlet correct? If so it will require cutting of the rear shelf to make it work. |
The Flow Force injectors have and are performing flawlessly for my car at 200+ whp. They really are the best option for the least amount of money unless you plan to make baller power on e85. Then you might want to consider real ID's.
My car idles between 14.4 & 14.8 and I run the stock fuel pump. |
For as cheap as this build is, I'd hate to ignore RX8 injectors they work great to 200hp, and can be had as low as $130s. But I think the max Ive heard of is 225, so not much wiggle room. You might also try to find "that guy" in the classifieds who's looking to get rid of his recently cleaned RC550s for even cheaper. Or just get the FF units.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1311628)
For as cheap as this build is, I'd hate to ignore RX8 injectors they work great to 200hp, and can be had as low as $130s. But I think the max Ive heard of is 225, so not much wiggle room. You might also try to find "that guy" in the classifieds who's looking to get rid of his recently cleaned RC550s for even cheaper. Or just get the FF units.
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K.I.S.S. Get either FF, rx8, or some pre-cleaned rx7/RC injectors.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1311633)
K.I.S.S. Get either FF, rx8, or some pre-cleaned rx7/RC injectors.
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Check RC's injector calculator. Pretty easy to find out.
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Just get the Rx-8's and be done
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Alright so I went to pull the header to test fit and found the egr tube. What should I do? Cut it? I tried removing it but no room to get a wrench in. Also all 7/8 exhaust studs came out. Buy new ones? I also will probably use an internal wastegate so that's another 40$, plus the 150$ for new injectors, and the new rad. Also I found out a few things about deh car. I never really introduced the car here. It's a 95 that had some rocker rust, which I repaired kinda shitty but looks OK from 4 feet away. And the paint sucked so I paid some local to do it and I'm less than impressed.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456681793 After 2 months and barely any driving the paint is bubbling, not because of rust but because of a shitty prep job. Also they missed a few spots. Good thing is it's right where I'm going to try and replicate the OEM chip guard so its gonzo either way. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456681793 Give it to me straight doc, how does it look? Next weekend I might pull the trans and do the clutch, wish me luck. My goal is to have this running by the end of March |
You can keep the exhaust studs, new ones will do the same after a few dozen heat cycles. But keep in mind I'd suggest replacing it if this were anyone else.
And you can get a wrench on the EGR, keep trying. But if you're in a rust area it probably won't break loose. You'll want to save it though, because it's the easiest way to make a cap for the turbo manifold, if it doesn't already have one. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1311771)
You can keep the exhaust studs, new ones will do the same after a few dozen heat cycles. But keep in mind I'd suggest replacing it if this were anyone else.
And you can get a wrench on the EGR, keep trying. But if you're in a rust area it probably won't break loose. You'll want to save it though, because it's the easiest way to make a cap for the turbo manifold, if it doesn't already have one. |
Fak, you guys are going to love this
The turbo doesn't fit |
Yeah if you don't have an EGR, are you sure it's not a 1.6 manifold?
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Don't think they even thought about an egr port, damn Chinese
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Well I think I can do either A. Cut the shelf or B. Fab up a 45 or 90 degree flange to compensate, boat loads or room that way.
Also the down pipe actually looks like it might work. I also be using a second hand ebizzle wastegate that I've reseated. Not perfect but better than nothing. I believe brain used a similar turbo in a build that he's done that I've read about. All those seemed to use too mount mani's. I would betcha 50 cents that tacotaco took the t25 cast mani, changed a few holes, and called it quits without checking clearance. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456700749 Yikes |
Well don't forget to clock your crha, and look up FM's instructions for cutting the shelf. Very common.
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Yeah you have to cut or bend down that shelf lip. Same as all other FM/Begi setups. The T2 and T3 tacotaco manifolds are exactly the same, the holes for the studs are just drilled in slightly different places.
Here are the FM directions. Section 3A talks about how and where to cut. Here is my tacotaco with a t3 on it with the shelving removed. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453427783 |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1311966)
Yeah you have to cut or bend down that shelf lip. Same as all other FM/Begi setups. The T2 and T3 tacotaco manifolds are exactly the same, the holes for the studs are just drilled in slightly different places.
Here are the FM directions. Section 3A talks about how and where to cut. Here is my tacotaco with a t3 on it with the shelving removed. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453427783 |
No, because Lars isn't stupid enough to waste time on that turbo.
It's a .42 compressor and .48 turbine. The turbo you have is huge and useless. |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1312113)
No, because Lars isn't stupid enough to waste time on that turbo.
It's a .42 compressor and .48 turbine. The turbo you have is huge and useless. |
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Buy the proper t3, it is a smaller exhaust housing and will not hit the shelf as hard.
I have a friend in KC who mounted the proper MKturbo T3 on the same t3 taco manifold. He does not even need to trim the shelf near the shock tower, only for the downpipe. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456781830 Buy this T3 48AR 2 5" V Band Exhaust Flange 42AR Comp Internal Wastegate Turbo Charger | eBay |
Oh thank god I was going to drive over right now with a bottle of merlot. Im glad you're ok.
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So a new turbo will be bought (t3 .42 comp, .48 ar), new injectors (probably 550cc rx7), and a new rad. Any one have see anything wrong with the rest of this? Tacotaco mani, oil lines, will have to make wastegate cover, v band down pipe, some sort of exhaust (haven't decided), boost gauge, act 4 puck clutch, FMIC, IC pipes, wideband, and I think thats all of it.
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I have a few questions, 1 is I've seen a few videos of people using the same turbo. Is it possible to use at all? Or extremely laggy and have a high boost threshold. I understand that it's a pretty big turbo, if it's absolutely necessary I will go buy a new one. But if it isn't I'd like to try and make it work. I haven't been able to find a definitive answer anywhere. I understand that it's terrible choice, just asking.
On another note I picked up 4 wrx 440cc denso injectors, cleaned and flow tested for 60$ :) |
You have a T3/T04E as far as I can tell. This thing here.
VMS T3 T04E Turbo Charger turbocharger 50 AR 57 Trim 400 HP External Wastegate | eBay It will do nothing till high rpms, then it will try and eject the rods. This video doesn't show anything useful, but you can kind of hear it. No full boost till 4,000 or later. Instead, you could have the smaller turbo that can do full spool 3,000 or better, and it will still eject the rods on the top end on a stock rotating engine assembly. Area under the curve makes the car fun, your car as planned will not be fun and will instead get you many tickets. google-fu finds me this. You can look for more from here. 2000 miata, T3/T4 based DIY kit - MX-5 Miata Forum MX-5 Miata Forum - View Single Post - FOr those of you T3/T04E users, Any dyno plots? |
Someone has a Garrett t28 from an SR for sale for 100$ local. Needs a rebuild but iirc can't bb turbos be rebuilt.
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Not bb turbo. Rebuild kits are available at gopopshop for $100
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1312339)
Not bb turbo. Rebuild kits are available at gopopshop for $100
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Would you rather have a $200 Garrett or a $200 eBay special. I'd say it's an easy decision
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You will need to go buy the t2 tacotaco manifold if you swap to the garrett.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1312389)
You will need to go buy the t2 tacotaco manifold if you swap to the garrett.
I'm tempted but no completely sold |
Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1312396)
Drill new holes or make an adapter plate, no?
I'm tempted but no completely sold So yeah buying a new t2 manifold is what you need to do if you don't just want to buy the same t3 I use on my setups. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1312407)
I don't think drilling new holes will work. I am pretty sure you will run into the other holes you already have and have problems. With an adapter plate you will run into the shelf again.
So yeah buying a new t2 manifold is what you need to do if you don't just want to buy the same t3 I use on my setups. |
I mean I would buy the correctly sized T3 that Deezums linked to earlier.
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My bad I completly ignored the fact that you already have a t3 manifold. China turbo would be your best bet
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Alright so I ordered the exact turbo deezums linked too, why change what I already have? I still need to fab up a cover for the external wg, tacotaco never gave me one and it's not even worth the effort to chase one down. New cxracing rad was bought, then a new throwout bearing to replace while my clutch is out. I know that the Subaru 440cc are basically plug and play, measurements say that they are around .5 inches shorter. So I will have to get the rail to sit shorter. Also question. How much of the shelf has to be cut? Also where can v bandd be bought? And bolts or cutted rod to use as outer studs, the inner ones will fit?
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The t3 tacotaco does not come with the ewg block off plate, the t2 one does. Why they only ship the plate with one and not the other is a mystery. No clue on how much of the shelf needs to be cut, I am not cutting mine to find out. V-band can be bought from mandrel bending solutions. Studs for what? Attaching the turbo to the manifold? Just goto Ace and buy the M10x1.5 studs they sell there.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1312712)
The t3 tacotaco does not come with the ewg block off plate, the t2 one does. Why they only ship the plate with one and not the other is a mystery. No clue on how much of the shelf needs to be cut, I am not cutting mine to find out. V-band can be bought from mandrel bending solutions. Studs for what? Attaching the turbo to the manifold? Just goto Ace and buy the M10x1.5 studs they sell there.
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Ohh those studs. I just was not thinking, use bolts for the long ones, then just screw the other studs in. Viriiguy has a thread about possibly finding longer studs to use on the ends, but honestly bolts should work just fine for a street car.
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I buy my v-bands from this guy on ebay. Good product, fast shipping, great service. He called me to confirm an order one time because i bought a bunch of SS304, then accidentally ordered a mild steel one. So he checked in an made sure I got the SS one instead.
sskrystalautosupply on eBay I buy the male/female ones. |
alright so the turbo that deezums directly linked to was recalled? I ordered one and it was then refunded. But it said it shipped a full 24 before I even got that email. Anyway I can't find a .42/.48 turbo anywhere. The only ones I can find are $300+ and have to be ordered from china. Should I wait? what should I do?
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There are some on a boat on their way from China right now. In 2 or 3 weeks you should be able to get one. You either wait, or buy a t2 manifold and fine a t25 of some sort.
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So I've reached the point of no return, like when your up in a really tall tree, look down, and wonder how the **** your going to get down. So much stuff in the mail and it looks like I might be waiting on a part for a while, great. Some picture updates to come later
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You probably thought I failed
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I didn't realize how many threads failed around here just having a goal and either being beat to death (verbally) and just stopping. Anyway so I decided to stop being a puss and ordered the right T3. How could I be so stubborn? Then I bought the rad, exhaust pieces, muffler and hanger. Nothing else really posed too much of a challenge, just time and lots of research. I also found out how much of a help just searching can be!!! I also realized going into things that I though I had "figured out" was really
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 But while waiting for everything I decide to grind and paint my rear subframe, here are some crappy pictures if me sanding the rear brace. So now the car isn't bad at all rust wise for a NE car https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 Then stuff came, all in one day too https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 Bands of V Also while drilling the pan (and buying more drills and taps I didn't need) I saw this lil guy. Didn't hit it but came damn close. wat iz it?!?! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 Also pulled my A/C some where between then and now. But the real teaser is I got the car to start. Ran for about 15 seconds then died. My "custom" down pipe might be too close and hit either the trans or the front sub frame. I know the exhaust hits on the driver side axle but its just a start no drive so screw it. My Afr's were off by a lot and looked really lean but I think the v band right before the o2 sensor wasn't fully sealed. But IT RAN!!! baby steps. T.S. also keeps losing my injector settings and sets it back to 265 instead of 305, don't worry the 440's will be going in soon. I suck at taking pictures but I try and snag some more when i work on the car tomorrow. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1458434742 |
You probably thought I failed
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Some how just posted twice
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