Also, I noticed that I had heat spots on my resurfaced flywheel, so I ordered a Comp Clutch stage 4 rigid 6 puck clutch :)

Competition Clutch

Picked up a used NB 5 speed yesterday. I'm also going to order the BEGI coolant spacer and block off plate and do a DIY coolant reroute. Once all those parts are in, the motor should be ready to go. Then I just have to pull the A/C lines and condenser and depower my steering rack, and the motor will be ready to go back in.

Parts!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423145755

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423145755

Planning to have some friends over for a weekend in a couple weeks and will be dropping the motor back in. Can't wait to get the car on the road! The roads up here are in no condition for driving right now, but hopefully they get the pot hole crew on the road soon.

Dude...that clutch is going to hurt!

I'm excited for you! Any new shiny bits other than the clutch and reroute?

Because Racecar!!!

Nah, nothing really new and shiny. Either a heat shield or a turbo blanket will be going on for sure though. Oh, I got some hood struts. Wish I had those years ago!!!

I'll probably be ordering some Stoptech pads and rotors once its running again.

OH. There is one little thing that may happen.....
Miata Fender Flares

;)

Got the car running again this weekend!! Some pictures:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428291642

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428291642

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428291642

Put out the bat signal for some friends

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428291642

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428291642

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428291642

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428291642

lookin good.

matt's hair is getting real long

Thanks man. Gotta look the part to play the part! (Jesus)

Took the car out for a test drive last night to check everything out and break in the new clutch disc. Came back to find some leaking coolant, and narrowed it down to the plugs in the BEGI coolant spacer. I originally installed them with teflon. After a call to BEGI, they suggested using gasket sealer instead. The two plugs were fairly easy to access by removing the coil pack. They are all sealed up now and curing until tomorrow. I'll test drive again and see how it goes.

Forgot to update this. Started up the car and took her for a test drive on Saturday, no leaks! Gasket sealer worked like a charm. I've put on close to 150 miles on the car so far and have had no further problems or leaks. Drove around in nice weather all weekend and met up with some Miata friends. The 6 puck isn't bad at all, I'm happy with the choice. And what a difference new motor mounts made!

Gotta rep a Miata's favorite stores.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429040461

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429040461

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429040461

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429040461

The red NA, Gary, will have a thread in here soon enough. He's in the process of sourcing turbo parts.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429040461

Have had some days around 85 degrees lately. No cooling issues since the reroute. Needle stays solid at 11 o'clock! Ordered StopTech pads and rotors to install when I get some free time.

If you don't mind me asking, how much do you think you have invested in your turbo kit?
I am on the fence with either buying a complete turbo kit from either Begi or FM or piece one together like you did.
the only issue I have is, I don't have access to a dyno that is close by, the closest one is like 2.5 - 3 hrs away!!

Car looks good! i drive a montego from CT.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435929074

You will spend $2500-$4000 to turbo your car correctly and get all the supporting mods no matter if you DIY or buy a done kit.

I didn't keep track of every dollar that I've spent, because I didn't want to be in shock of how much I've spent on the car :) When you're doing a FM or BEGI kit, it really comes down to how much of the work you can do yourself. I essentially built my own FM kit. Thinking about parts, a little bit of fabricatio and labor, and MS troubleshooting and tuning, I probably spent around $4,000.

It probably would have been cheaper for me to buy a kit, rather than piece one together, and have some intercooler piping and a downpipe fabricated. BUT, I definitely learned a TON more by piecing it together myself, doing research on the parts, and installing the majority of it myself.

If you can fabricate yourself, it would be a no brainer to piece it together yourself, and fabricate as much as possible. Intercooler piping and downpipes can be pretty simple. I prefer a cast manifold ($$$), but I've seen people fab their own manifolds for next to nothing.

Purchasing parts used can help save a lot of money. For example, my intercooler setup is an old FMII setup that I paid $350 for the core and piping. But the cast manifold I purchased new, for around $400 I think. The cast mani's tend to sell very quickly here in the classifieds.

If you're curious about any more specifics on what I paid for certain things, feel free to ask!

Give me your hard top :)

Been enjoying the summer weather. It's starting to get a little hot without A/C, so I purchased the cool breeze scoop from Moss Miata. That little thing actually works great on the highway.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436218051

DP....

Added a KG Works wing. I think it completes the rear end nicely :)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442804786

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442804786


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442804786

Miata season is coming up quick! Or so we thought in New England. Who knows anymore.

Did a few smaller things that needed to be done before this year. Installed some Stoptech pads and rotors, did my VC gasket and CAS o-ring again, painted some things, got some new rubber, and raised my coils a bit. I also just picked up a FM heatshield to keep my brake lines and coolant lines cooler. I am very happy about my decision to raise my coils a bit. The ride is obviously much smoother, and I should be able to get rid of all that negative camber in the rear. Excited to see how auto-x goes this year with the new setup. Pics below!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

DZ102's in 205/50/15
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

Teal is the best color :D
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

MUCH better ride height
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

What's that saying? March showers bring April..snow?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

A couple photos from my friend's 1.8 build. We will eventually be painting his entire car. Last week it was a complete shell, now we are almost ready to drop the motor in. If you'd like to check out his build, follow his instagram @goodformgaz

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460038793

Looks great. How are you impressed with the stoptech? I mostly would like to know performance in cold and if they dust any.

double post

I've only driven it once to bed the brakes, but they felt great. I'll let you know more after I drive it again. I had them on my WRX and couldn't have been happier.

Oh man, now I see it.

I wish I could do a teardown/engine bay respray :(


Teal bruvs

Just read through this whole thread. Very inspiring.

Haha my engine bay is filthy. Teal 4 evah.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed.

Now that I've been driving with them for a while, my car has never stopped better. I was having issues of locking up the wheels before the Stoptech stuff, but not anymore. The first couple weeks they threw an insane amount of dust, but it has since calmed down and is barely noticeable.

It's also been quite a while since I've updated this thread! Car's been running well despite my growing hatred for the unsprung 6 puck. Oh well.

Picked up this beautiful FM heatshield. It seems to be helping keep my brake fluid temps down
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466103035



Also bought some delrin door bushings and diff bushings from Garage Star. The door bushings worked really well for a couple of weeks, but after that my door rattles have returned. I need to dig into the door a bit and figure out what's going on. Also need to install the diff bushings, but the weather has been so nice, all I want to do is drive it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466103035



And picked up a Momo T-frame seat from a friend and ditched the Ultrashield. Still working on finding a mounting solution for it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466103035


The paint on my driver's side quarter panel is cracked, and some Bondo cracks have returned. Looks like the guy that did the body worked took the easy way out on this quarter. I found someone to take care of it, just need to get the time to get the car to him.

Send me the other heatshield!

Diff bushings? Extreme!

Glad I finally found your build thread...
I'm in shock, its one of the best ones I've read

Hey! Thanks man! I need to get active on here again.

The miata hasn't been running for a few weeks now. I got in one morning to take it to work, the motor kicked right over as normal, but as soon as the RPM's start to drop back down to idle, it dies. The motor will kick over every single time, but will immediately die. I did a good amount of troubleshooting, and have determined that it's a fuel issue. The injectors are running fine during cranking, but as soon as the motor is running, they shut off. Spark is fine - the car will run on carb cleaner. Fairly well, might I add! I am waiting on my tuner to come by and plug into the MS and see what's going on. There's an autocross on November 20th that I am hoping to make. I'll update once I find the problem!

pump? filter? v8?

Diag'd the pump and it is good. Also used a fuel pressure gauge inline and it checked out. Matt seems to think either MS or the CAS. I have a spare CAS, but its from a 1.6 so the angle of the wiring harness plug is different. I need to get my hands on a timing light to swap it in.

Edit: I've been having dirty thoughts of LS swapping a Datsun or FC RX7.

1.6 CAS will swap in fine, you will just need to reset base timing afterwards.

Correct. The 1.6's and 1.8s different in that one is magnetic and one is optical, but the output is the same.

I know the dieing right after start up on a stock 1.6 is usually caused by a sticking AFM door.

Yup. I've done a TON of Googling around, and 95% of starting, then dying is related to this.

Matt Miner?

Indeed! Matt is one of my good friends.

#SubaruJesus

Funny you should say that, I was Datsun shopping in Baltimore, found some candidates, but it would be a chassis up build. I have yet to find a spot with a garage

Mmm. I'm thinking they're going to be one of the next cars on the upswing. It's still very much just a dream/idea, but if I do end up doing it, I'll probably visit Mike down in Charlotte and find a nice southern beauty to drive back home.

LMK, we can have twinsies

Hah, funny it's him. I'm on the mass subaru fb group and he's a regular poster there. Seems like a stand up guy!

Let me know if you're game for having me come for a ride along in your car when it's running again. I want to work on mine, but figure it's a good idea to sit in a few and see how they drive, even if it's from the vantage of a passenger!

Only if they're teal.

PM'd.

Thank you sir. Looking forward to it!

Good news and bad news.

Good news, I have a diagnosis. Bad news, its the MegaSquirt. Matt came over to help me do some troubleshooting. Turns out that Tuner Studio is showing both the Engine MAP sensor and the Boost sensor as reading full negative. With the car just keyed on to ACC, the boost gauge should be reading 0, and the MAP gauge reading ~100. Our initial diagnosis is a failed MAP sensor on the MS. I've sent an email over to DIY to see if they can help me out. Hoping it goes smoother than last time.

The boost sensor is the map sensor, same thing. Just order you one up and solder it on, they won't be able to help unless you ship the ecm back to them.

Yeah, this isn't my first time with MS issues. I want to hear back from DIY to see if I have a warranty before I crack it open. But doing it myself is something I was considering. I've also heard that people run external map sensors. I need to do some research. I haven't soldered something so small before but I'm confident I could learn.

Lucky for you the MAP sensor is the biggest device on the board, I could solder it with one of those big solder guns that dim the lights when you plug it in...... Pick you up an 8$ pencil iron and it'll be easy.

You did check to make sure the vacuum line didn't pull off or kink?

Do you know of any good install instructions?

Yeah, even if the line kinked the gauges would still be reading correctly with the car keyed to ACC. Boost is reading full vacuum. It should be reading 0.

I'm sure DIY will run me through a couple troubleshooting steps before sending it in. I found another thread on here of someone who had the same exact issue. They had him try things like firmware updates, but in the end he sent it in to be replaced.

Ugh sucks that you're having MS issues again.

Did some diags, and the internal MAP sensor is indeed dead. Waiting to hear back if I'm covered under warranty. If not, I have a external sensor lined up, so all I'll have to do is wire it in, and then hopefully I'll be good to go!

Fingers crossed buddy. I read through your entire thread last night and it looks like the megasquirt hasn't been all that nice to you.

Awesome build. I've seen this car at ADSI I think last year. I just picked up a turbo kit with the same turbo as you so hopefully all goes well and it'll be at ADSI next summer

Good news, she lives!!!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNm5kKqjRVA/

The MS was out of warranty, so I got an external AEM 3.5 bar sensor and switched over to using an external sensor. The install was pretty straight forward. Just had to switch the MAP jumper on the board and wire in the new sensor to the options port. The weather is near freezing here and the snow tires are going on the speed today, so not sure how much driving time the Miata will see. But I am pumped it's working!!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1b16a429c4.jpg


The MS has been quite a bitch.

I wasn't there last year, but I was for the few years before. Are you local?

Yea I'm over in Boston area. I must of seen you a few years ago probably not last year then. Looking good!

yaaaaaaaaaay

Yay from me as well! That's a relief!

Took the car out for some driving yesterday. It may be placebo, but I swear everything is running smoother. I know for sure one thing was fixed. I used to have an issue on warm starts, where the car would kick over, and then run lean and die out if I didn't give it some throttle for 20 seconds or so. Matt fixed this by adding some fuel on warm starts, but the issue slowly came back. More recently, I was also having some issues with rough idle. On Saturday I noticed that warm starts are no longer and issue, but the car is idling SUPER rich. 11.5! It's safe to say I smelled a bit like fuel afterwards. Now that the issue itself seems to be fixed, warm starts/idle can be tuned back to normal.

MS and AEM MAP sensor mounted up for now. The serial connector that I had from DIY was for a previous version, so I had to get a new 26 pin connector off Amazon. My fingers were numb by the end of this, so I'll probably revisit the wiring in the Spring. Don't mind the filth.
Attachment 182433

Finally some time out in the wild.
Attachment 182434

Oh and of course now my driver's side window is stuck half way down :) Hoping the motor was just frozen.

Curious if there's a spec to how large in diameter the reference line can be to the MAP sensor. I know on BOV, the volume of air moving matters, thus a fatter line would be more responsive. But for a pressure transducer, does a narrow/long line dampen or delay the response? /postulating