Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1380700)
Curious if there's a spec to how large in diameter the reference line can be to the MAP sensor. I know on BOV, the volume of air moving matters, thus a fatter line would be more responsive. But for a pressure transducer, does a narrow/long line dampen or delay the response? /postulating
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Heh, I got home yesterday just as the snow started to fall.
Glad to know everything is working even better than before at this point. |
My windows get notoriously slow when the weather gets cold
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1380858)
My windows get notoriously slow when the weather gets cold
I'm pretty sure my nb1 antennae froze halfway down last week. I thought it was broken, but turns out it just froze on the way down... |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1380878)
I'm pretty sure my nb1 antennae froze halfway down last week. I thought it was broken, but turns out it just froze on the way down...
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1380858)
My windows get notoriously slow when the weather gets cold
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New grease on the rails does wonders.
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The tracks get dirty and need to be cleaned, mine have to be cleaned but I've never felt the need to fix it, just like a lot of other things on the car....
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I had motorcycle lube that I sprayed in with one of those straw like nozzles.
It worked pretty well other than my dropping tnt nozzle into the track where it has lived for the last few months. I'm too lazy to open up the assembly. The lube sprayed into the rails worked well enough. I'm sure actually putting grease on the tracks would be even better. |
Yeah I've looked into all the window issues before. I've had to take apart my switches and clean them already. The up switch has been a problem for a while, so I think it finally went.
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Originally Posted by Leach0789
(Post 1381144)
Yeah I've looked into all the window issues before. I've had to take apart my switches and clean them already. The up switch has been a problem for a while, so I think it finally went.
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1381150)
Like the center console switch? Just pop it apart and take a punch to the contacts to get them to meet, I cracked the plastic that they are on but they still work fine. Saved me about $70, the cleaning method didn't work, the switch was just too worn down so that's what I had to do to get it to work.
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I picked up a used window switch from Treasure Coast and all is well!
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just noticed this was in the diy section. moved to build threads
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1 Attachment(s)
iata is up and running for the Spring. Started off by having it re-tuned by Matt. Ever since I replaced/upgraded my MAP sensor, things have not been right; running rich all the time, especially at idle. Matt did a wonderful job with the tune, and its running better than ever.
Took a drive out to CT a couple weeks ago, and ran into an interesting issue. I hit a dirt road, and my temps immediately started getting warm. After a minute, I realized my fans were not kicking on. I hit the Diagnostics box with a piece of wire, and was only getting the relay to click. Replaced the cooling fan fuse, and as soon as I hit the diags box again, the fans kicked right on. Took the Miata out the next day, dead fans again. Tried the diags box, and not even a relay click. I started poking around more and made sure that my coolant temp sensor was reading correctly in TunerStudio. What I eventually found was a bad connection at the fan harness. One of the male spade connectors had slipped on top of the female connector (read: bad penetration, giggity). I haven't touched that connector in years, it boggles my mind that it just became a problem now. I fixed the connector, and was able to get the fans to kick on - even with the original fuse and relay. Replacing the fuse in the beginning and having the fans run again seemed to be a complete coincidence. Very odd! I hate electrical stuff. Autocross in 2 weeks! I'll be at ADSI with a couple other MT forum members if anyone else wants to join us. Attachment 181246 |
pic doesn't work?
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My car lost crank/cam signal because of connectors I hadn't touched in while. They sell electronics cleaning sprays, it flashes off as quick as brake cleaner but is probably safer for polymers. You can clean up all the connectors that are accessible and maybe throw some dielectric grease to help block the elements from creating surface oxidation over time. Just a thought. I hadn't had a problem since.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1407183)
My car lost crank/cam signal because of connectors I hadn't touched in while. They sell electronics cleaning sprays, it flashes off as quick as brake cleaner but is probably safer for polymers. You can clean up all the connectors that are accessible and maybe throw some dielectric grease to help block the elements from creating surface oxidation over time. Just a thought. I hadn't had a problem since.
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2 Attachment(s)
Survived another autocross! Everything ran well for the whole day. However, I'm pretty unhappy with the performance of the DZ102 tires. They've been great on the street, but are seriously lacking on the course. Time to fork over some money for real rubber I suppose. But all in all it was a great day.
Finally got my seat installed just in time. It's a very good fit for me. Even on the sliders, I am lower than my stock seat. Attachment 180999 Mazda friends before we headed down to ADSI! Here is the build thread for the NC: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...o-build-92792/ Attachment 181000 I had one small casualty - one of the mounts on my FM heatshield broke. I have a couple friends who TIG very well, so getting it fixed shouldn't be a problem. It's more of just an annoyance. http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...psbemzyhqe.jpg |
Do I see 4 point harnesses in one of those pictures? If so you need to remove them and go to 5/6 point harnesses. 4 point are extremely unsafe.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1410329)
Do I see 4 point harnesses in one of those pictures? If so you need to remove them and go to 5/6 point harnesses. 4 point are extremely unsafe.
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Leave submarining to the Navy.
Does Jimmy tig weld now? Who? Just in case as I may be trying to transition back to RI |
Originally Posted by Leach0789
(Post 1410330)
Yes, planning to upgrade it in the near future now that I've found a seat that works for me.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1410331)
Leave submarining to the Navy.
Does Jimmy tig weld now? Who? Just in case as I may be trying to transition back to RI
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1410332)
Cool, at least you know not to use them long term.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1410332)
Cool, at least you know not to use them long term.
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@Shibby has taken the stitches out of his also on the account that he is running sans airbag and has advised me to do the same. Another thing to stack onto the list.
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Probably not a good idea? Not sure. Seems kinda sketch.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1410329)
Do I see 4 point harnesses in one of those pictures? If so you need to remove them and go to 5/6 point harnesses. 4 point are extremely unsafe.
Stock belt with no airback you just want to take the stitches out and move the plastic buckle stop further down the belt. |
I have racequip 5 points, cheap and safer than 4 points. It is literally a 4 point with a crotch strap drilled through the floor though, I would say just buy the strap but those harnesses look way out of date.
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I have decided to post my car for sale, if anyone is interested. https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale...3/#post1445832
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:(
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1445836)
:(
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eh?
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1445839)
eh?
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The car has been sold :( On to the next Miata!
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Did you grab the one you'd originally set out to buy? PICSSSS!
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1 Attachment(s)
1997, 90k miles, stock drivetrain with a Torsen, never seen anywhere North of South Carolina. It's still down there, I just have to go get it.
Attachment 236908 |
Is the car still available? If so, what is price?
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Originally Posted by BrucFitz
(Post 1466711)
Is the car still available? If so, what is price?
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As long as the car hasn't spent too much time near the ocean, I think you're going to appreciate how ridiculously clean and rust free the cars can be from "down here". |
Originally Posted by Leach0789
(Post 1466645)
1997, 90k miles, stock drivetrain with a Torsen, never seen anywhere North of South Carolina. It's still down there, I just have to go get it.
https://i.imgur.com/nAse9hx.jpg |
Why did you end up selling your old one?
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Originally Posted by MarcosTacos
(Post 1467772)
Why did you end up selling your old one?
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1467783)
To buy this one...?
There must be something influencing your decision? Sorry if my last post sounded kind of clueless lol. |
1 Attachment(s)
Whoa, haven't been in here in a while! This past weekend I made the trip down to SC and drove the new Miata home. It ran fantastic the whole way. Everything feels so tight and smooth compared to my old car. It's amazing what Southern weather and 90k less miles does to a car. (Also have VMAXX coils, FM sways, and a roll bar).
Attachment 236821
Originally Posted by MarcosTacos
(Post 1467801)
Not really answering my question here.. yours already had a torsen swapped in, you had fixed all the rust and repainted it. What made you sell your old one and buy this new one?
There must be something influencing your decision? Sorry if my last post sounded kind of clueless lol.
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1466833)
As long as the car hasn't spent too much time near the ocean, I think you're going to appreciate how ridiculously clean and rust free the cars can be from "down here".
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1466843)
That's not Mike's car is it?
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Sadly, I have received news that the buyer of my car was in an accident and the car has been totaled. I am happy to report, however, that the driver is okay and was able to walk away from the accident.
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Sad to hear, Leach. Long time follower of this build and was sorry to see it go. How's the new ride doing and are there any changes to it's aspiration in the works?
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