AHaidet's '93 1.8 swap with FM kit and MS3x
 

I am finally starting a build thread as my build is starting to gain some momentum, almost everything is ordered, new parts are piling up in the garage, 1.8L motor is nearly prepped..

Here is my 93:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...255BUNSET%255D

It already has Koni Yellows, Ground Controls, Flyin Miata sways, 949 6ULs with RE11 tires, Boss Frog Clearview Roll Bar...

It needs some power so I bought a 96 1.8L motor from a junkyard in Pittsburgh last fall with a reported 77K miles.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402387589

Brought it home and threw it on the engine stand:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402387589

It sat there for a month or so untill after the holidays and I ordered a timing belt kit with water pump and began tearing down the motor. I decided not to do a full rebuild based on how clean the motor was and the low mileage it was reported to have.


I ordered a MS3x from Reverant as well.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402387589


I ordered an FM clutch:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402387589

and some of their timing belt tools and seal installers:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402387589


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...423_202033.jpg

That's all for now. Next I will post some pictures of the coolant reroute stuff I ordered and made.

I decided to order an FM turbo kit finally after a few months of deliberation and watching the classifieds. A few parts are on back order so I am waiting for it to arrive.

I planned on writing more last night but ran out of steam and fell asleep with laptop on lap on couch...(having a kid sometimes takes its toll on my ability to work later:sleep:)
I woke up on couch at 4am summarized what I had and hit post and went to bed.

Few questions/issues I am working through and doing research on now:

1. I think I can use the stock 96 1.8 coils with the MS3x? I just need to rewire the 93 harness for the 96 connectors?
2. While I am finishing up the timing belt install... is a higher resolution trigger wheel worth upgrading to with the MS3x (non sequential injection and power goal of 250-300 (emphasis on response for Auto-X/street driving))
3. With my FM no electronics kit I am using the FM 1.8L downpipe but hoping to at least temporarily reuse my Roadstersport Catback. Car is register in an emissions testing free area. So I need to fab up a test pipe to fit between the two as I have a 1.6L FM Cat now. I have a welder and decent fab skills I need to find a source for flanges. I have the resources to machine them myself but machining steel isn't particularly efficient on my little CNC.

Tonight I will try and post another update with photos on my coolant reroute and more current photos of engine status.

I ordered some of the parts for my coolant reroute and made some others.

First I ordered the rear thermostat housing, thermostat, and Kia water neck from BEGI as well as some gaskets.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402546033

I then took one of the gaskets from BEGI and scanned it on my flatbed scanner. I imported that image into my CAD program and traced around the image to create a DXF file. I took the DXF file and exported it into my CAM (computer aided machining) program and created G-code file to input into my CNC machine.

My machining strategy was as follows.

First I machined both top and bottom of the 6061 aluminum stock with a fly cutter to be sure the sealing surface was perfectly flat:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/uD...=w1598-h899-no

Then I drilled both holes into the part to attach it to the jig.

Next I cut out the rough profile with a 1/2" roughing endmill.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/wU...=w1349-h899-no

I followed that up with a 1/2" finishing endmill.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...IMG_7258-2.jpg

Next I chamfered both edges with a 3/8" 90 chamfer mill:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...IMG_7262-3.jpg

I flipped the part on the jig and repeated the chamfer code.

Here is the finished product:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uI...=w1598-h899-no

I could have just bought this piece from BEGI with the others but I had just upgraded the mills control system and needed a quick simple part to test it out on. I also had a piece of scrap stock the perfect size for this.

To complete my reroute I picked up the GM hose from Autozone that many others have used.

You can use the stock 96 1.8 coils with the MS3x. Same signals, the 96 coils will have a 4 position connector with only 3 of the wires populated (they don't produce a tach reference signal). Make sure your MS is setup to provide a tach signal.

Nice build so far and uh... nice CNC mill? Are you with a machine shop in or near Akron?

Thanks FAB9.

Does this thread provide the details I need to accomplish this?

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...ecifics-58571/


Yes its a CNC Mill. Its a benchtop mill I converted to CNC myself.

It started out like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402635635

I ordered stepper motors, drivers, and a break out board. Its controlled by a standard windows PC using MACH3 software. I machined most of the mounting brackets and parts by hand. I got tired of chips flying around and wanted a little extra safety so a friend and I built a sheet metal and acrylic enclosure to contain the chips and coolant it now looks like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402635635

I have done a few other upgrades since then like installing a higher powered motor and adding a belt drive.

I am in the Akron area but I typically do not machine parts for others (I have done a few odds and ends jobs though). Mostly I use the machine for making prototype parts and small production runs for my small business that makes DSLR video accessories.

Flyin Miata contacted me and told me my no-electronics kit is shipping! Now I can make some real progress on my build!

My kit arrived.

It was like digging for treasure...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405348954

and after I filled up an entire contractor bag of packing peanuts...(this photo was only half way in)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405348954

I found this...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405348954

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405348954

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405348954

I haven't had such mixed emotions upacking something ever. I hate packing peanuts... like with a passion. They make a mess of everything and are wasteful... but I love turbos. So I went from moments of pure rage as the little pink bastards got stuck to everything to pure joy holding the shiny new parts.

I will post more photos as I go through things and finish unpacking.

My to do list going forward:

1. Finish timing belt install with 32 tooth pickup wheel
2. finish cleaning and painting of motor bits and pieces (valve cover, etc)
3. install coolant reroute parts
4. install turbo and plumbing to motor
5. swap motor.. and install Megasquirt..

I have made a good bit of progress since my last post.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407430257

Removed the EGR valve and installed the block off plate.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...-no/2014-07-28

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...-no/2014-07-28

Good thing the block off plate came with instructions. I thought the plate blocked off the hole where the EGR tube attaches. It actually replaces the entire valve which makes sense and then there is no reason to block off the EGR tube hole.

Also my injectors from Fuel Injector Clinic and my NGK AFX wideband arrived.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M4...=w1115-h627-no

I also installed the BEGI coolant reroute. I used the basic instructions I found on: Easy Coolant Reroute – part 1 — revlimiter.net

I installed the spacer on the rear of the head with all the proper plugs and fittings.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407430403

The spacer seems well machined in general. It was super easy on the engine stand but would be a real pain in the ass in the car.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407430403

The one issue that the instructions don't seem to cover, the Kia waterneck used for this has a 1.375" OD but the stock radiator has a 1.25" OD inlet. I have found reducers meant for coolant lines at Pegasus racing but others who have done the reroute this way don't use them.

Next I began work on painting the valve cover. I like red valve covers on black cars. A friend convinced me to use wrinkle paint and make it look like a Ferrari valve cover.

I thought about powder coat, I have a small setup in the garage but was concerned about oil in the baffles leaking out during the baking process and making a mess. I have had good luck with VHT paints before and they make a wrinkle red that seemed perfect for this without the need to remove the baffles.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407471858

I cleaned the valve cover with mineral spirits at first and then wax and grease remover. I then scuffed it with a red scotch brite pad and wiped it down again with wax and grease remover.

The VHT wrinkle paint has very explicit directions on the requirements for the paint to wrinkle evenly. The directions call for heavy wet coats 5 minutes apart. The first coat in one direction, the next 90 degrees to the first and the third at 45 degrees. I followed the directions perfectly and made sure to lay as wet of coats as possible without creating runs.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407471858

It can take a few hours for the wrinkles to appear. So I went in for the night and returned in the morning.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...-no/2014-08-02

I think I applied the paint TOO Heavy!... The wrinkles were heavy and in the corners of the part they looked particularly pronounced. I let it cure a little longer as it can take up to 48 hours dry enough to handle it. I then used an exacto knife to carefully trim out the wrinkles from the corners.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...-no/2014-08-02

It's hard to tell in this image but I was able to remove most of the corner wrinkles and in general clean up the finish.

I then wanted to remove the paint from the raised letters. I made a crude jig with a piece of plywood and bolted the valve cover to the mill table.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...805_231450.jpg

I used a fly cutter to take a few light 0.020" passes.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...-no/2014-08-05

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...-no/2014-08-05

It turned out pretty good. I may in the future try and redo the wrinkle finish. But I don't want to spend anymore time for now on cosmetics of the valve cover.

Here are a few glamour shots with the DSLR that look pretty cool. Enjoy:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409189613

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409189613

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409189613

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409189613

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409189613

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409189613

Looks like a very deep wrinkle - good looking valve cover though. Nice touch with the freshly machined finish.

Thanks. A bit deeper than I had intended but it's growing on me.

As many of you already know the Flyin Miata kit has two options for the oil return line from the turbo. They have a rubber line and the stainless line. Either oil return line requires drilling/tapping/installing a brass hose barb fitting/ and a little JB weld to attach the return line to the oil pan. They intend for this kit to be installed with the engine in the car.

I am sure this method works great. Flyin Miata has a great reputation and if there were an issue with this method I am sure this forum would call them out and they would devise a new method. I however decided to go a different route... you could say my engineer OCD kicked in...

Removing the oil pan is quiet a chore. Since I had the 1.8L engine on the engine stand I figured it would be fairly simple pulling the pan. If you have pulled the oil pan you know even on the stand its a PITA. I removed all the bolts and carefully pried at the pan until it popped free from the block. But it seemed like something was still holding it...


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079


After 15 mins of cursing and searching for a hidden bolt I did a few google searches... I realized the green looking metal tab on the top of the oil pan flange was the windage tray...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079

I used a utility knife to score and cut the silicone between the windage tray and the oil pan. Carefully prying the pan away from the windage tray as it was easy to bend the tray flange.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079

After a little over an hour I had the pan off... I then carefully cleaned it up. Using a combination of de-greasers and mineral spirits I cleaned up the all the oil residue.

Flyin Miata recommends you drill the pan near the front (under the A/C compressor) to lessen the chance of hitting the oil pick up tube on the inside of the pan. With the pan off this isn't an issue and allows the drain line to have a more direct path from the turbo. I carefully selected the spot to drill based on research on this forum.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079
(NOTE: I drilled the pan off the motor!! If you drill it on the motor as shown here you will hit the oil pick up! Which is bad!!)

I then called in a favor... to a friend with a TIG welder.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079

I had him weld a -10AN fitting to the pan. He is a fantastic welder and it turned out really nice. In the next post I will cover how I made the line to attach to the turbo.

I reattached the pan using Permatex Ultra Grey carefully outlining all the bolts as the factory manual specifies.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079

Re-installed the windage tray and new rubber seals at the front and rear of the crank and torqued all the bolts in the specified sequence. I used a red paint marker on the final pass to be sure I didn't miss any.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409193079

Time for an update. I've accomplished a good bit and I am going to try and catch up on these over the next few days we will see how it goes.
So I left off with the oil pan modifications and TIG welding an AN -10 bung...

I have a friend that gets good deals on Aeroquip products so I sent him the part numbers and he had everything in a few days. He recommended their Startlite hose for a turbo oil drain line. I used some Kobalt triple cutters to cut the line to size. Then I fit the fittings on both ends. Per a few threads I found I used a 60 degree fitting on one end and straight on the other.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211208

I ended up cutting the line twice (measure once cut twice… right?), the first time I left it a little too long. It still might be a touch long but I am going to try it like this. I still have enough hose to make a few more if I accidentally cut it too short.

Next I removed the old stock injectors…

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211208

…and replaced them with new Fuel Injector Clinic 650cc units.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211208

They came with pigtails that need to be spliced in. They also offer them with adapters but I wanted to simplify and clean up the wiring versus adding more connections. (It also saves a few bucks going without)

Next I worked on the interior. I needed a space to mount my NGK AFX wideband gauge as well as a some switches (data logging, traction control (possibly), launch control, etc), I also wasn't keen on leaving the USB cable to Megasquirt just dangling under the dash or floor so I wanted to mount a jack on/in the dash somewhere. The MS also has the ability to log data to an SD card. However, the SD card slot is mounted to the side of the MS which gets mounted under the carpet in the passenger footwell. Not very convenient to pull it out to check a quick log.

First I ditched the OEM 1.5 DIN Mazda radio and picked up a modern single DIN Pioneer with bluetooth. I still like to drive the Miata to work most days in the summer so a radio is nice to have. I also ditched the pocket below the radio.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211481

I designed a mount for the NGK AFX controller/display, since it only ships with a piece of velcro (lame). I made a simple bracket and 3d printed it on my Makergear M2 printer using ABS plastic. The design allows for it to be mounted in the dash and be pulled out through the front so I can re-calibrate it from time to time without having to pull the entire dash apart to get to it.

Here is the mount after acetone vapor bathing the printed part, which helps to smooth and strengthen the part.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211481


I need to design the mounting plate to fill in the area under the radio that will hold the NGK AFX bracket above, some switches and the microphone for the bluetooth phone. Things started to get a little crowded even with the extra space. So I decided to move the USB jack for the MS and the SD card slot to their own panel. I designed a bracket to mount them under the glove box. This seemed like another fine application for the 3d printer.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211481

I also printed a simple plug to cover the USB jack when not in use.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211481


Mounted.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211481

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412211481

I still need to finish the design for the dash center panel. I think version one I will 3d print and if it works out well I will probably try and machine something nicer.

I've actually been contemplating getting one of those SD card extension cables for my ms3x lately. Cool to see someone else using one.

Still jealous of the diyCNC mill.

Very cool progress, good for you

Great work so far. I love how clean and meticulous you're being with everything, it's going to save you some headaches in the future. Is the motor in the car yet or are you waiting to tackle it during the winter?

Thanks guys.

The 1.6L motor is nearly ready to be pulled everything is disconnected but the motor mounts and trans mounts. Trying to line up help to assist with pulling it has been tough (friends have crazy work schedules). I am keeping myself occupied working on details like the wiring and cleaning. If I run out of details before I can get a friend to help I may try pulling it solo. The best way to pull it sounds like engine and Trans together I have a Harbor Freight Puller and load leveler so it should be doable.


Good news is I keep making progress on other things so once the motor goes in it should be that much closer to being ready to run.

Do yourself a favor and work on your load leveler first.

Lightly grease the shaft, and add some decent washers on either side of the stops. It'll work 100% better this way. If you use it as-is out of the box, once you get the engine/tranny at the angle required to remove it, it jams up and you can hardly turn it.

Edit: also, with your load leveler, it's not the hardest thing to remove yourself, although I'm speaking from experience.

Thanks for the tip. I will definitely take a few minutes to tune up the load leveler.

I compression tested the old motor before pulling it so I would have that info when I go to sell it.

All 4 cylinders were spot on to the factory spec of 192PSI... not bad for a 21 year old motor with nearly 100K miles on it. (It did get a refresh of the head a few years back though)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412519291

As I prepared to pull the old motor I decided I needed additional information. The Haynes manual just wasn't cutting it. I did a quick search for a factory manual and ended up purchasing Keith Tanner's book and also the Enthusiast manual. Both have been excellent resources and in general easier than Googling or posting a question to a forum. Even in today's digital world a good old fashioned manual is still a useful tool when working in the garage.

One clever tip I picked up in Keiths book suggests using angle brackets to mount the 1.6 coils on the 1.8 head. I made simple angle brackets fabbed up the old fashioned way with my band saw, drill press and grinder (looks like I can still make things with my hands without using CAD or CNC tools)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412700471

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412700471

In order to use the new 8.2mm Taylor 1.8L wires I purchased with the 1.6L coil required swapping the signal wire between the left and right coil. The Miata is wasted spark so cylinders 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 fire together. Not only did I swap the signal wires I also swapped the order (4,1,2,3) they were connected to the coil.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412700471

Final test fitting:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412700471

I then cleaned up the brackets with a file and sand blasted them to prepare for powder coating later.

Oh that's disgusting. #1 should go on the far left post, although it looks like it's too short. Then #2 and #3 should swap coil posts. Ew.

I can swap 2 & 3 haha. #1 I dont think will make it .

I have more updates to post but I am going to jump ahead here. My friend and I pulled the 93' 1.6L and trans last night.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...007_201342.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...007_201347.jpg


It went fairly smoothly. After separating the trans and motor I noticed a good bit of oil (not sure if gear or motor) sitting in the bell housing.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412779705

After pulling the clutch I am inclined to believe it is gear oil as the rear main seal doesn’t appear to be leaking that bad, just a little seepage. I have seen gaskets for the trans that I believe may need to be replaced based on this finding? Is this a common spot for leaks on the 5speed?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412779705

My current plan of action unless someone can make a case for something else is to replace the seals and install it on the Turbo 1.8L I am installing. Since I didn't build the bottom end on the 1.8L both it and the 5speed seem to have similar limits of around 250hp. If I crave more power down the road build a bottom end with a 99 head and install it with a 6speed.. maybe?

Are there any differences between the years of the 5speed that makes one more durable than the others?

I like the clear pictures you keep posting. Seriously, good job, keep it up.

Quick question: can you do me a favor and measure the compressor inlet OD on that FM turbo? I can't figure out if it's 2.25 or 2.5 or something else.

Thanks. Yeah I can measure that this evening no problem.

2.5"

thanks

Tonight I began transferring parts over from the 1.6L to the 1.8L. The 1.8L didn't have an intake manifold brace when I bought it from the junkyard. I assumed the 1.6L brace was the same. Tonight After looking at them closer and removing the 1.6L brace I realized they are not the same.

Here is the 1.8L motor missing its brace.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412827263

Here is the 1.6L motor with its different brace.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412827263

Any suggestions on where to get a brace for a reasonable price? Does it have a specific name other than Intake Manifold brace?

Here's a suggestion:

Remove it like 90% of the people on this forum.

Not being an ass, that's just the suggestion you're going to get from everyone.

Yup, remove it and use that sweet-ass CNC rig to machine off the mounting holes.

That's simple. Thanks guys.

nb4 injested throttle body hardware ;)

I have one in brand new condition off an NB2, no idea if it will fit, but if it will and you want it, hit me up

Thanks for the offer. I like the idea of not putting one back on if it doesn't create any issues. Access to the oil filter and alternator should be greatly improved without it and it saves a few pounds hah.

Deleted and replaced below b/c pictures were messed up.

I replaced the fuel injector connectors with the new ones for the Fuel Injector Clinic injectors.

I stripped back the majority of the plastic wire coverings to gain access to the wires underneath.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415941760

I used non-insulated crimp connectors and my ratcheting crimper from Amazon to make the connection and then finally heat shrinked the connector.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415941760

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415941760

I also lengthened the wires to the temp sensor as well to reach the location for the 1.8L sensor.

When I was all done with the connections I ran new wire sheathing to protect it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415941760

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415941760

Re-installed and connected to FIC injectors.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415941760

I then cleaned up the transmission.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200075

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415944210


It took a good bit of effort to clean up inside the bellhousing.

Before:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415944210

I am pretty sure the transmissions seals were leaking causing the mess in the bellhousing.

So I replaced both seals on the front of the transmission, the gasket and oil seal.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415944210

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415944210


Cleaned up and seals replaced:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415944210


Ready to mate to the 1.8L motor now.

wire harness looks good. is that just regular electrical tape over the mesh wire loom?

So... time for an update finally.

I powder coated the brackets I made for the ignition coils, the water pump pulley, and the alternator bracket. First I sand blasted all the parts:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rv...j=w958-h539-no

Alternator bracket partly done.

Then I sprayed the powder and baked them.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200148

The booth I made a few years ago out of plywood and a Harbor Freight cart.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200148

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200148

The oven I bought at an industrial surplus locally called HGR.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...2014-10-03.jpg

The parts turned out great.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200589

Before:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200812


After:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200812

One problem I found out shortly after the parts cooled...

The alternator bracket doesn't transfer to the 1.8L motor... The 1.6L alternator transfers to the 1.8L bracket to mount to the 1.8L motor. So I wasted my time on the bracket :(

But the other parts still look great.

If anyone is interested in a nicely powder coated 1.6L alternator bracket shoot me a message and we can work out a deal.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416200868

Thanks!

It's Super 88 electrical tape you can get it at Lowes, HD, etc.. Its more flexible and stronger than your average electrical tape. Its also better at lower and higher temps.

I thought about using heat shrink but I have not found an affordable source of heat shrink elbows, Tees and Ys.

Is the Super 88 adhesive free? I've been using 3M's 130c high voltage splicing tape which is essentially an adhesive free cold shrink tape. It did 5k miles in a turbo engine bay and was in the same state as originally installed.

Product Catalog Scotch® Professional Grade Vinyl Electrical Tape Super 88 : Electrical Commercial and Industrial: 3M US

I dont think its adhesive free.

Super 88 should be ok for the injector harness as its good too 220F.

Maybe I should look into using the 130c for the rest of the connections. Where do you buy it?

Is that the stuff?

Yes. I got lucky with an ebay deal. IMO it's superior to any other electrical tape I've ever used. Works like heat shrink, is much thicker, adhesive free and very durable.

Well I didn't beat the snow.

I did get the engine installed:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425872356

I also installed the FM intercooler as well:


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425872356


The engine went in fairly smoothly with the help of a few friends.

Then life got super busy around the holidays and the weather turned to complete shit for a month or more (Northeast Ohio had the coldest February ever, literally). I worked on what I could and got a little done. Now that the weather is starting to break I am getting more focused and the warmer weather makes garage time more comfortable.

I was able to make progress on mounting the NGK AGX Wideband Display in the spot under the radio:

Here is a mockup:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425873582

I 3d printed a bracket to hold the AGX display and then I 3d printed a panel to hold the AGX bracket as well as some buttons for data logging, traction control and launch control (master switch). I also wanted to install a USB charger and the microphone for the Bluetooth phone connection on the radio.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425873582

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425873582

The only issue is the 37 pin harness that Rev supplied with my MS3 doesn't seem to have the wires for data logging, launch control attached like his instructions suggested. I have no problem adding them myself but Rev hasn't replied yet to my email for a diagram for the PIN outs on the MS3 37 pin connection.

So it has been a few months since I updated and a lot has happened! I did some traveling for work and for pleasure and when I returned home it was time to make a serious push to get the car done for the coming spring/summer weather.

The Rev built MS3 needed installed into the passenger foot well to replace the stock unit. This was fairly straight forward and went smoothly. The only wiring that needed done was for the wide band O2 sensor. I forgot to snap pictures of the unit fully installed but I will get some soon when I go back in to make some changes.

Next I needed to seal up the cooling system with the re-route. This turned out to be a bit of a choir and still has some lingering issues. I should have read more info on carefully disconnecting the heater hoses from the heater core connections in the engine bay...https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432224857 both heater core pipes got a little mangled by me working the cooling hose pick tool around trying to free up the hose. This is a common mistake/problem. The trick is to be more gentle. At any rate there are a variety of options to fix this problem once you've created it. I tried a variety of options. First the drivers side hose was easy enough to massage back round and then I used two hose clamps to be sure it sealed (and it has so far stayed sealed) The passenger side required more attention. I tried sliding sockets down the ID to try and open it back up and remove the dents. This helped some. Finally I bought the following tool:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432224857

HDX Swaging Tool-HDX053 - The Home Depot

Which helped. I was concerned that it still wasnt perfectly round and that tightening a hose clamp would make it worse. So the last trick (short of replacing the heater core) is to insert 1/2"; copper pipe into the inside to reinforce the heater core outlet. I drove it into the heater core outlet with light taps from a hammer and it fits remarkably well. I then tightened two hose clamps around it again. So far so good and no leaks from this portion of the cooling system.

I put silver heat resistant foil around both heater hoses because of their proximity to the turbo and exhaust manifold.

I also replaced the grommets that the heater core outlets pass through when they meet the firewall. This is a common failure point on older Miatas and is way easier to fix now with everything apart.

Next it was onto finishing the coolant re-route.

My re-route is based on the "Easy Coolant Reroute." I used a BEGI thermostat spacer as I showed installing in a previous post and a GM radiator hose from AutoZone. Others that have used the same GM SUV hose can just run this hose all the way to the front and connect to the radiator. With the Flying Miata intercooler pipe this creates a territory dispute between these two hoses. So another Autozone hose to the rescue. (I can dig up the part numbers if anyone is interested but simply searching "Easy Coolant Reroute Miata" should find the info) With both hoses connected together, with a 1.25"; union from Pegasus Autoracing, ran a little to close to the intake manifold and specifically the throttle body for my tastes. The hose clamps were scary close to the throttle cable and I really wasn't looking forward to a possible stuck throttle situation.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225134

So I ordered a 17'; straight aluminum pipe with beads rolled on each end from BEGI.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225134


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225134

The aluminum pipe was both thinner and straighter than the GM rubber hose. I simply trimmed the excess hose off. This however created a new issue as where the hoses were now trimmed they were not perfectly round. At the time it seemed like a good idea to use T-bolt clamps from McMaster to really cinch down the hoses to help force them round.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225134

Fast forward a month or so to me getting ready to start the car...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225339

I always use a no-spill funnel to allow the system to bleed any air out.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225339

I finished filling it and without even pressurizing the system found a leak shortly after...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XO...a=w309-h549-no

This photo was taken up through the transmission tunnel at the back of the head where the BEGI spacer is located. It was leaking from the NPT fitting that the heater hose connects to. After some investigating I found that the brass hose barb was bottoming out the NPT threads in the spacer. It was not sealing like a pipe thread is designed. I tried using extra teflon tape and had no luck. Finally I used some silicone sealant on the threads. I also contacted BEGI who is sending me a replacement spacer. I am not looking forward to replacing the spacer with the engine in the car but I do not trust the threads and silicone to stay sealed long term. The silicone has held well to allow further testing. Next I pressure tested the system. Using the following MityVac tool:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225339

Autozone rents something similar for free but I like having this around to quickly use when needed.

I found another leak at the T-bolt clamps for the re-route.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225339

I then went in search of a better hose clamp. The T-bolt clamps work well when the hose is round but were leaking under the section where the bolt is located. I found what I think is the ideal hose clamp for this situation. Gates Power Grip:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225339

It basically is heat shrink tubing. They advertise it for use in situations where the hose or fitting may be out of round.

Slip the fittings half way over the rubber hose and half way over the aluminum pipe and use a heat gun to shrink the fitting.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225339

Ultimately I think it makes for a much cleaner look.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432225339

It also seems to seal very well.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...516_153226.jpg

Only downside I have seen so far is the cost; about $5 for one in this size. They also are not re-usable and must be carefully cut off.

I have some more updates of the install and even some more 3d printing and fabrication content to add but..

I have started the car and drove it and its running hot (215-230F) without getting into boost much. I think the radiator is the main culprit here and it looks like I will be ordering a radiator very soon. It is on it's last legs anyhow based on the color of the plastic end tanks.

I like the engineering and testing that went into the FM crossflow unit but the price is a little tough to swallow. Koyo has a new Hyper V unit as well that looks promising at a lower price. The SuperMiata crossflow looks like a good choice as well but is not in stock. The TSE unit is even more than the FM unit...

I suspect the Koyo isn't as capable as the FM unit however it is $200 cheaper.

The end goal is to be able to take the car to do track days a few times a year, Auto X maybe once a month, and still drive it to work on sunny summer days in Ohio. All while spending as little time laying under it fixing broken things.

I've read a bunch of threads on cooling and understand ultimately I need ducting, a radiator, and hood vents to solve the cooling issues.

I am open to suggestions/tips on which radiator to buy.

After the cooling system was finished (sorta). I needed to connect the FM downpipe to the old exhaust system a Goodwin Racing RoadsterSport. I had considered installing a catalytic converter but the car doesn't need to be emissions checked in my area. I still may install a CAT to cut back on the smell and to help the environment out but for the sake of getting the car running more quickly I decided to build a test pipe. The test pipe could also serve as the template needed to fab the pipes for a high flow cat down the road. The issue with the Miata CAT is that the flanges are at very akward angles in relation to the direction of the exhaust pipe. I know ideally I would bend the pipes to meet the flanges so that a straight cut could be made but this will do for now. I found steel flanges that would work at Summit Racing and picked up a piece of aluminized 2.5" pipe.

I wanted to figure out what angle to cut the pipe to meet the downpipe. Every method I thought of with involved a lot of trial and error with a grinder, a file and band saw. Then I had an idea...

I whipped up a model in CAD to make a tool for measuring the angle. I then 3d printed it in black ABS plastic and cut TIG welding wire to fit in the smaller holes.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432299617

The ID of the bigger circle is just a hair over 2.5"

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432299617

This allowed it to slide over the exhaust pipe. I came up with a few ideas to avoid having to cut a slightly short piece to figure out the first angle but instead just decided it was easier to sacrifice a short piece of cheap exhaust tubing.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432299617

This tool allowed me to transfer both cuts and cut them on my bandsaw and do a little finish work with the grinder.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432299617

To say I am pleased with the fit would be an understatement!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432299617

Little late in seeing this thread but wow, I wish I had access to all your toys, the things I could make.

Good start man, looks like you headed in the right direction from the start. I need to build my own powdercoating cabinet. Powdercoat all the things!