curly

iTrader: (25)

49 what?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ft/lbs. That's the torque spec for that bolt.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Car cut out on the freeway. Wouldn't fire until I let it drop to zero. Kind if like loosing sync. Don't have a computer at autocross, can anyone take a look at the log? For like 5 seconds before it drops to zero rpm the engine wasn't firing. You can see afrs go up.

I'm thinking cam sensor?

codrus

There's a sync error in there -- intermittent failing NB cam sensor is a good bet.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Car started fully cutting out. Turns out it was running on 3 cylinders. Messing with the #4 coil connector fixed it. For a bit. Need to redo that harness.

Found some play in my lower ball joints. Then they exploded when removing them.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

holy crap you use an impact on that sketchy harborfreight ball joint separator? **** thing terrifies me. If a ball joint puts up like any resistance with that to me I'm putting moving blankets all over everything and I put on mig gloves and a face shield. I also learned my lesson once and I leave the castle nut threaded on a little still to capture it.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Always leave the castle nut on... retards.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

But yes, I like the moving blanket idea. Definitely mig gloves and a face shield.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Dear lord. First of all, the nice ones off the snap on truck are only like $40. Secondly, I've seen a few ruined by using power tools on them. Never do that. Thirdly, always leave the nut on the end. Not only does that prevent ball joints from shooting out like your video, but it also keeps the tip from damaging the end of the threads.

Steve Dallas

Yeah. When I use one of those tools, I grease the threads with fresh grease, put a decent amount of pressure on the ball joint with the tool, then whack the castle nut a couple of times with a 2 or 3 pound hammer to release it. The tool is really only meant to do half the job.

curly

iTrader: (25)

If you can't access the top, on steel hubs just hit the hub themselves as hard as possible. 2-3 wacks should be all it takes. Once it vibrates enough it'll fall out. With enough access I do this all the time without the press.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

^ That's how my dad taught me to do it; Grab a BFH and some lubricant, hose down the stud and whack the beefy spot on the LBJ mount a few good times until the taper breaks. Most of the time it works every time.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

That would chip my powder coating

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Agreed on using the hammer to release the joint once you've applied pressure with the tool. But then you get to keep all your appendages and that simply won't do.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Just use a rubber or rawhide mallet then.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I don't think they will have same affect. You want to induce vibration.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Well UPS didn't pick up the replacement ball joints. So hopefully they show up tomorrow morning. @Scaxx is coming down tonight and we leave tomorrow morning. Hopefully will be able to knock a few more things off the list.

1. Rewire coil harness with pigtails from @afm
2. Replace ELBJ when they show up
3. Pack, find all my spares
4. Maybe build a gas can rack on the back of my trailer.
5. Heat shield for turbosmart wastegate actuator.
6. Replace actuator bushing if the replacement showed up.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I make vibrations with rubbers all the time. You're just not trying, hard enough.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Motor is dead. Cylinder 1 is pissing oil. Full of it.

No idea why or how. Pretty over it. Friend is towing it home. Gonna try and bum some rides.

Oh well.