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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 05:47 PM
  #301  
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What process have you guys found the most painless for updating? New blank project, load new firmware, then enter in all the settings one by one? Or has anyone found a better way to do it?
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 08:00 PM
  #302  
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I just updated firmware. It's the same project and tune.
Old Dec 7, 2017 | 09:42 PM
  #303  
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same here^
Old Dec 7, 2017 | 10:32 PM
  #304  
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Interesting. Okay, I'll give it a go and report back! There seem to be a bunch of horror stories floating around.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 09:25 AM
  #305  
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Grit your teeth and do it. I read all the horror stories before I updated - they had me scared shitless. So I just "closed my eyes" and did it...it updated without a glitch.

of course, YMMV.
Old Dec 8, 2017 | 09:38 AM
  #306  
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Dooo iiiiiit!
Old Dec 8, 2017 | 11:25 AM
  #307  
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Thanks for the encouragement folks. I'll never forgive any of you if it ends in disaster.

I'm out of town this weekend, but I'll take a crack at this on Tuesday.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 01:28 PM
  #308  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
1.4.3 is where you what you want to upgrade to. It is the latest stable on the 1.4 branch. There is nothing in 1.5 specific for the miata or that will make it "better" in any way.
I'm not sure where you get 1.4.3. I don't think there is anything in 1.4.x past 1.4.1. That's what is on Scott's site.
Old Dec 10, 2017 | 04:26 AM
  #309  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
1.4.3 is where you what you want to upgrade to. It is the latest stable on the 1.4 branch. There is nothing in 1.5 specific for the miata or that will make it "better" in any way.
There's no 1.4.3 firmware. 1.4.1 is the latest available version in the 1.4 series, and IIRC there's nothing new or fixed that concerns a Miata in this firmware version. Hence my recommendation to stick with 1.4.0 for now.
Old Dec 15, 2017 | 07:24 PM
  #310  
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I'm getting it dialed in pretty well now. Just a couple adjustments to the PID settings and I've got boost holding at 15psi pretty stable.


One thing I don't have dialed in yet - when I do a pull in 4th or 5th starting at low RPM, boost spikes before dropping back down. Some pulls I get boost dropping a bit in the middle of the pull with higher boost at low and high RPM. Any ideas how to correct those things?
Also, I think my clutch is slipping a bit at like 16psi. My best guess is that the pedal isn't being let all the way up, so I'll try to adjust that.
Other than those things, the car feels amazing!
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 05:56 PM
  #311  
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More tuning today. I am trying to increase boost at higher RPM, starting at 15psi at 5000 and going up to 18psi at 7000, but it's not happening for me. I hit max boost at about 4000RPM, and then it slowly tapers off. I don't think I'm maxing out the turbo yet, because the boost duty isn't holding at 100%. See below - target is 15.8psi at 6k.

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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 10:45 PM
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You are close enough to 100% I think you are blowing the wastegate open or maxing the turbo. But I don't think the turbo is maxed.
Old Dec 16, 2017 | 11:02 PM
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Maybe a couple more winds of preload?
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 12:40 AM
  #314  
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Maybe, or a stiffer spring in your wastegate can.
Old Dec 17, 2017 | 01:39 AM
  #315  
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Or a stash can?
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 02:13 AM
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With the proper modifications, sure
Old Dec 17, 2017 | 02:17 AM
  #317  
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Much like sonofthehill today, I also made my car not start. It was really dialed in and felt better than it has for years, so I figured that just wasn't right and updated the firmware from 1.2.3 to 1.4.1.

Ignition settings changed, which was expected. I set up the coils using Andrew's settings. The bigger change is the idle control settings, and I just don't even know where to start. I figured I could just copy over settings from my 1.2.3 tune, but it's completely different. Could you guys spoonfeed screenshots of your idle control settings for me to copy?
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 10:41 AM
  #318  
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I got it working! Huge thanks to yossi126 for sending me his base map. Also, for the record, when Reverant says to use 1.4.0, use 1.4.0.
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 06:48 PM
  #319  
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I'm definitely losing some oil, and it appears as if it's being burned. I was also getting enough oil coming out of my valve cover breather on the exhaust side that I needed to stick it into my intake instead of VTA.


I did a compression test, and got the following results:
Dry: 150, 155, 155, 163
Wet: 176, 180, 196, 198

The big jump from dry to wet suggests rings right? Also, should it be higher overall? Like maybe I've got valve leakage too?
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 11:39 PM
  #320  
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It's hard to say, because different testers read differently, but overall the numbers are pretty consistent. If losing oil could be blow-by, esp if you're seeing it eat oil between changes.

The spatter from the pipe is relatively normal on a cold start

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