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The crossover pipe is what I am talking about, shoved all the way into what?
I agree that IAC value changes are minimal, but the coupler between the SC outlet and crossover pipe still look like a potential leak to me.
The crossover pipe there is flaired out to a bit over 2.75" for the last 1.5" of it or so. Then shrinks back down. So while it looks like the coupler is a loose fit, it is not. The end of the pipe is just shoved all the way into the coupler, which is longer than it needs to be.
Here is a picture of the pipe off the car. Red is supercharger end, green goes to the dummy throttle body. Editing photos on a phone sucks...
Readjusted the clutch peddle since it was causing everything to hang up. Got it so it holds in 2nd, and will hold in third if I don't slam on the gas at 2krpm. 4th and 5th it slips at anything below 4krpm and more than 3psi. Doh! Part of the idea of the super was I could climb hills in 5th at 50-55 without downshifting...
Anyway, debating between the Supermiata Sport sprung puck clutch and the FM1. Who has used both? The FM1 I hear basically feels like stock, but how is the life span on it? Same questions for the Supermiata one.
I want a clutch that can grab right off the floor, hold up to track days and autocross launches, and doesn't have too high of a peddle effort. Modulation I don't care too much about, as long as it isn't too chattery or grabby. Nothing can be as bad as the cheap "stage 3" 6 puck un sprung clutch my friend put in his celica...
Also, flywheels. For a mostly street car with a supercharger, AC and bigish sound system that likes to pull the RPMs around, i am thinking I don't want to go too light. Maybe the 13.5lb one from FM?
People who bitch about lightweight flywheels are stupid. Run as light as you can. And learn to drive it.
I am more worried about idle issues with the supercharger and other loads on the engine, as well as NVH. If this were an all out track car, I would just go with an 8lb one from 949 (or the twin disk, which is the sex).
I love my ACT XT with 9.5 pound aluminum flywheel. Heavier than stock, yes, but not an issue.
Dunno if they still make it or not though.
--Ian
i run a stock 1.8 clutch, pressure plate and Fidesa flywheel on my M45 1.6, it had some weight to it so it helped with the dreaded sc idle and was a great easy clutch to drive.
It held through countless ax and many track days at 9psi for 25k miles, when it finally started slipping it was worn past the rivets
Ran perfectly all the way down to the big NJ Miatas end of season meet and back. About 130mi today. Only issue is a rattle sound around 3800. Happens when accelerating, cruising or coasting down. Feels like the supercharger intake manifold thing rattling against the brake booster? I will have to track it down.
The Miata is running well. The supercharger is exactly what I wanted for this car, nice smooth boost in power, but doesn't actually feel any different. Perfect. Also, the noise is way too much fun. Fuel economy is settling in around 27-28mpg. Not bad for a rough tune and short cold trips. Need to get start up tuned right though... Otherwise nothing to update with. It will soon be time to take it off the road for the salt season which means....
I need to actually pay attention to my daily and stop ignoring it. Getting new brake drums, front strut bearing, and, while I was waiting for parts, I decided to actually get around to checking the valve clearances. They were all loose. Around 0.008-0.009" on the intake (spec is 0.006-0.007) and 0.014ish on the exhaust (spec is 0.010-0.012). Tightened those up and put it back together. You have to remove a ton of things to get to the valve cover though. Wipers, cowel, wiper mechanism, cowel panel, push the battery over, remove air box and intake, loosen throttle body and push it out of the way, remove intake manifold chamber, and then the coil pack harness. All this takes about 20min if you know what you are doing though. It is super easy to take apart and put together.
The windshield is asymmetric at the bottom and it always bugs me...
80k miles of synthetic only. 9k mile oil changes. Looks good. Yes, it is SOHC. It's got VTACK yo!
Lotsa room to work once everything is out on these.
Tons of room behind the motor, and the exhaust manifold is cast into the head, so just an adapter to bolt a turbo up.... Hmmmmm.... And they finally released a tuner that will work with this ECU (as in, just a few months ago, took them long enough!).
Up on jackstands for a few days...
The offending strut mount. Hopefully this fixes the disconcerting clunking I have had problems with for a while now. It is the only thing I could find loose. Yes, I put Bilstein PSS9 coil overs on my daily...
So a bit ago, I poked around and started taking guesses at settings for cold starts. Made a few changes as the temps got lower, managed to start it on a sub freezing day, though it kind of sputtered to life, but, good enough. Today, it flooded out after a cool night in the garage... Took a look at settings to figure out why and.... shwoops. Guess I messed up the save or something last time....
As my friend said after seeing it. "It's cold, set fuel injectors to fire hose!"
As an interesting note, the headlight buckets apparently launch them into the air. Much more preferable than it coming through the windsheild like I was sure would happen if I ever hit one.
Ouch. Makes me want to get a hardtop for the fall/winter months. Two weeks ago I took some NJ back roads home and had to hit the brakes hard a few times to avoid crossing deer. That was in the Taurus though. The thought of hitting a buck while driving a Miata is scarier.
Finnaly enough light to get some decent pictures. Also found why the hood doesn't quite close. Gonna have to work on that (either cut or swap the manifold for the sebring one if it fits).
Also found a super cute K&N breather filter that works perfectly for the IACV.
Sorry to muck up your build thread with a noob question, but- I have a 1.6L with JRSC and stock ECU/band-aid AFPR and timing box shizz, about to go to MSPNP. What lets you get away with the little filter instead of the big hose that goes around to the pre-SC elbow?
Sorry to muck up your build thread with a noob question, but- I have a 1.6L with JRSC and stock ECU/band-aid AFPR and timing box shizz, about to go to MSPNP. What lets you get away with the little filter instead of the big hose that goes around to the pre-SC elbow?
The hint I will give, is that it has to do with the way the megasquirt calculates it's fueling needs compared to the stock ECU. Read up on speed density vs. MAF or AFM control.
I think that's part of the reason flip ups aren't allowed any more. They were tossing pedestrians.
That sucks about the car but it doesn't look a bad as I thought it would.
I think that is exactly why they are not allowed. They really do an amazing job of turning the forward momentum into a throwing motion.
Yeah, damage isn't too terrible. I think that has to do with the only part the bumper hit was his legs the headlight bucket was the only part that hit torso.
It is mostly going to be trying to match the who know's what color of the macco job the PO had done.
Originally Posted by stefanst
Ouch. Makes me want to get a hardtop for the fall/winter months. Two weeks ago I took some NJ back roads home and had to hit the brakes hard a few times to avoid crossing deer. That was in the Taurus though. The thought of hitting a buck while driving a Miata is scarier.
I was convinced if I ever did I would just leg it and find it in my lap through the windsheild. I think that would have happened had the headlights not been up.
10-13-2016, 11:55 AM
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