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Side note: The rust in front of the passenger rear wheel is likely from a clogged rain drain.
That, or a wide gap in the wheel arch seam are my only guesses. Since the rocker drains are not rusted out, the rust/hole starts above that point (about 2" from the pinch weld). Some sheet metal, welding, and some paint will fix it up though. It was cheap, so whatever, it will be a good solid runner and never see salt.
That, or a wide gap in the wheel arch seam are my only guesses. Since the rocker drains are not rusted out, the rust/hole starts above that point (about 2" from the pinch weld). Some sheet metal, welding, and some paint will fix it up though. It was cheap, so whatever, it will be a good solid runner and never see salt.
Wehlp, my friend learned a lesson about braking hard and turning... She was being tailgated by a big truck and didn't slow enough for a corner (roads she didn't know) and reacted too late... found a guard rail backwards after that. Managed to get it pulled mostly back into place so it was drivable. Nothing but a bruised ego and some bent metal. The frame rail and bumper support are still where they belong, so some beating, possibly some cutting and welding in the future, and it will be fine.
The damage.
Really folded that front corner in!
A bit of tugging with the Subaru...
Bit of bottle jacking and a big hammer...
Not bad for a 2 hour rush job to get it drivable and useable. Guess we will be learning even more bodywork this summer.
Got all the fluids filled and bled (except the coolant), all four Xidas are in, exhaust, all that fun stuff.
Finished the intercooler piping now that the last coupler showed up. I forgot to order an extra 2.5" 90, so this one ended up blue cause it was cheap and on prime...
Added in the noise maker.
Found that the alternator connector came loose... I can't seem to de-pin this connector, so I ordered a replacement off amazon. Should be here saturday.
Got the connector for the alternator today, that is now working correctly. Good thing this car uses a common alternator. Also picked up a 46.5" belt (which happens to be used on the Echo, Yaris, Quest, 4-runner and a ton of other things, so every store has one in stock!) and slapped that on. Had to guide it onto the pulley and turn the engine over by hand to get it on, but it went on no problem, can't ask for a better fit.
Next up was getting the bumper back into useable shape. Had to replace the top bracket/rail thing.
It looked intimidating outside the garage while I was working...
Mount was bent smack in the middle.
Old vs. New(er)
Not a bad fit! Needs some paint, and I need to get the new hood on (the old hood bent back closer to it's original shape than I would have thought, it will make a good vented track hood). Also had to adjust the headlight bracket with some washer to get it into place, but not bad overall.
Anyway, took it out for a 40ish mile drive this evening. Everything is running well, it's making about 125kpa with the intercooler and the slowest pulley set I have, AFRs are much more stable now that there is no leak right near the O2 sensor and I got the small pulse width settings from Flow Force. Response is instant with the dual throttle bodies, it drives just like stock, need to finish mucking with the cables and springs to get it feeling right, it's close now, but doesn't quite return properly. The intercooler is doing a grate job keeping IATs more stable, I can finally tune reasonably. Use to be IATs were anywhere between 60f and 140f on a 50f day, now they sit in a 10-15f span.
Also, I finally got to drive on Xidas. I want to know what voodoo magic Emilio used to make these ride so amazing. I was worried the 700/400 would be too much for a car that is mostly used for long drives and just cruising around, but these things are plush. Perfection!
I have been putting some miles on it and doing some VEAL. It is working a ton better bow that the IATs are consistant and there is no exhaust leak by the O2 sensor (my guess at least).
I am going to have to figure something out with the bypass actuator though. At aroud -6inhg it is closing suddenly (since I had to move it's feed to the intake manifold, post supercharger) and it jumps up to 0inhg. Makes it hard to hold a stready speed on a hill. I may need to add a spring to help it or maybe a bleed hole? Or just get a solonoid and have one of the pwm outputs control the bypass valve. Thoughts?
Updates: Xidas are still wonderful. The issue with the throttle "latching" seems to be mostly about getting the throttle bodies synced up so that when the bypass closes the supercharger throttle is closed enough that the super can't raise the manifold pressure once the bypass closes. I have it 90% there for solving that, still latches a bit, but not bad. I wonder if I could do something with a solenoid and the TPS and a PWM output or something... Or maybe vent extra pressure with the blow off valve somehow? I will have to experiment.
Anyway, tossed on the 62mm nose pulley the other day. Makes a steady 6psi (143kpa) from 2500rpm to 6k, then ramps up to 8 or so (156kpa) at 7200. It pulls well, I need to get a knock sensor in so I can start advancing the timing a bit and then eventually go hit a dyno. This is the configuration I plan to run on track and it pulls solidly. Eventually I will put the 150mm crank overlay pulley on. Hoping this bumps me up to an intercooled 160-170kpa in the midrange, and 180+ up top. I want to see if I can make 200rwhp on pump gas (we get nice 93 here) and an M45.
I tried swapping one of the super charger idlers that got noisy with a timing belt idler. For some reason, the metal idler just pushed the belt off to one side and made it jump off? I tried a few different things, but no dice. Ended up putting the nylon composite one back on for now. Worst case, I can put some new bearings in it.
Also, a huge thanks to everyone here and all the info on this amazing forum. This whole project went super smooth thanks to all the great information available here.
Anyway, rolled over 150k while tuning and boosting.
Organized my car tool kit. I spend more time using it on other people's cars, but it has prooved invaluable for that.
Then got to polishing the new hood and fender up. The hood was matte pink and had spots of... something, on it. Looked like I murdered a small creature or something.
Hood polished up nice. Got it so clean and smooth the water just sat on it.
Actually, i got the who car that clean. This is my once a year detail on the outside. Sadly, the color the car was re-painted does not match the original classic red. All three new panels I put on match each other (they are all off different cars) but don;t match my car. Oh well!
And the finishing touch. It never feels like my car without it.
Slapped the 150mm crank pulley on today. It landed right where I expected it to. 165kpa anywhere above 4krpm, then at 6k is starts tapering up to 176 at redline. So it makes an honest 9.5psi most places and then up to 11 at redline (heh, it goes to 11). It is quick. Duno if I would call it fast, but certainly quick. Need to start dialing in the spark map.
Also, as far as I can tell, I think this means this super just will not flow enough air to make 200 on pump gas. Though I think we all already knew that.
Um, can you do that to my car when I'm in the area next week? Jeez. That looks awesome. My exterior looks like dog ****.
As a side note, any recs for what to bring on a road trip for a car that's working fine but still isn't completely ironed out? I'll be putting 700-800 miles on my car over the next couple of weeks. I'm planning on buying a fire extinguisher to keep in there justttt in case and stopping a couple of times to open up the hood and let things air out. I still haven't installed my undertray, but I might try to get it on and cut right before I leave so that I don't have cooling issues. Also planning to stay out of boost for most of the trip... I'm trying to find a good mount for my nexus tablet so I can run bluetooth and shadowdash to keep an eye on things and run VEAL while driving which should be helpful.
Any recs for what to pack for a road tool kit? I'm legit not sure what to expect!
The cleaning and polishing is super easy to do. Just snag a DA from HF and have at it.
For a road trip, I wouldn't worry about the under tray if you have an upgraded and good shape cooling system. For tools, bring anything you need to adjust anything under the hood, and then anything needed for any clamps you have touched recently. Other than that, you should be fine. My last road trip (260mi each way) I didn't even open the hood.
I'm probably going to be home for anywhere from 1-3 weeks depending on a few things...
I'll be swamped when I'm there, but I have plans to meet up with stefan. It'd be cool if a few of us could get together for a burr!
And yeah, I need to buy a sawzall and DA from them for a few things. I.e. sanding discs to sand some of the cement in the garage where there are drips of oil so the landlord doesn't flip a **** when he's around lol.
Duno where home is for you, but yeah, Stefan is a cool guy. Got to chat with him at the NJ Miatas end of season meet last year.
Oh, heads up, the HF polishing pads suck, get a meguires one.
Anyway, the snout seal on my supercharger had been leaking slightly before. It really did not like the extra speed and boost of the 150mm snout pulley and being spun to almost 18,000rpm...
I had another one on hand so I swapped it out. Though the one in there was some sort of strange metal encased seal? Anyone have any info on it?
Home for me, well my parents place anyway, is in Bucks County. I went to Pennsbury HS back in the day. I'm going back for a couple of weeks to hide and study for an exam coming up in 3 weeks. It'll be nice to eat home made indian food for a couple of weeks instead of scrounging through whatever wraps trader joes has coupled with hospital cafeteria food...
Originally Posted by stefanst
There's a dyno not far from my house (and RTC's when he's not at school) in Bristol, PA. That may be a good place to meet and measure d**ks. Ahm. hp.
If you can help me tune a bit, I can bring my EBC and/or box of EWG springs! I'm currently wastegate limited to 7 psi. AFR's look pretty spot on right now, so I'd be up for it if I can bump up to 10-12 psi for the dyno run.
Edit: *****. This means I'll need to bring the clutch to do too. Fak. I'm guessing my stock clutch is going to let go any day now...
Me friend accidentally ran 14psi on his stock clutch a few times. That was severely untuned and super rich though.
I have no knock detection and a super conservative timing map. I would be amazed if I was making more than 160hp.
That whole area is a bit of a hike for me, but depending when it happens I might be able to come hang out. Maybe one of you can help me with start up tuning. I am mostly groping around in the dark, it use to start ok, and I have only succeeded in making it worse recently....
04-10-2017, 08:54 AM
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