Boost Addicts SR20det engine conversion
To clarify the engine will be tilted back about 5-10*. The floor of the pan is at an angle, but it's hard to see due to it's low grade.
Finally got to welding today.


This is the design I settled on for the baffle. The post have it raised 3/8" off the pan floor. During a leak test in my bathtub, When I shook it around, the baffle kept the water at least an inch higher! Safe to say it works.

Updates soon.
Finally got to welding today.


This is the design I settled on for the baffle. The post have it raised 3/8" off the pan floor. During a leak test in my bathtub, When I shook it around, the baffle kept the water at least an inch higher! Safe to say it works.

Updates soon.
I dig this but ****, im running over 300rwhp now on my stock block and i kick the **** out of my motor everyday with no issues. Nice build but for 300rwhp, you can get that on a stock miata block no prob. Subscribed nonetheless
Someone did this build in central florida a few years ago and it came out great
Someone did this build in central florida a few years ago and it came out great
I am glad this dude is actually doing this instead of some douchey fanboi saying it would be dope, and telling us were stupid for building our engines. Keep it up. I would do this if i wasn't lazy/a shitty fabricator/wanted a v8.
That's pretty much what this place is about: show people you know more than the average toolbag and no one hates on your choices or decisions or plans.
Jump in with hopes and wet dreams of someday "OWNING DA BEZT DRiFt moBILE y0" and we will give you golden showers.
Jump in with hopes and wet dreams of someday "OWNING DA BEZT DRiFt moBILE y0" and we will give you golden showers.
this is awesome....
to get cleaner looking welds on aluminum your joints need to be an L before welding (primarily the 90 degree weld at the edge of the pan)
in for updates!
to get cleaner looking welds on aluminum your joints need to be an L before welding (primarily the 90 degree weld at the edge of the pan)
in for updates!
Thanks for the positive feedback guys.
Did a test fit today; fits like a glove.

Pulling the engine Monday, where I can start with my engine, tranny and diff mounts. A custom driveshaft also looks like it'll be making it's way on.
Any opinions on retaining the stock ppf or going with a conventional cross brace for the tranny, and a diff hanger bracket? I have read that it'll destroy the liveliness of the car, but I'm not convinced.
Anyways, updates soon.
Did a test fit today; fits like a glove.

Pulling the engine Monday, where I can start with my engine, tranny and diff mounts. A custom driveshaft also looks like it'll be making it's way on.
Any opinions on retaining the stock ppf or going with a conventional cross brace for the tranny, and a diff hanger bracket? I have read that it'll destroy the liveliness of the car, but I'm not convinced.
Anyways, updates soon.
Pulling the engine Monday, where I can start with my engine, tranny and diff mounts. A custom driveshaft also looks like it'll be making it's way on.
Any opinions on retaining the stock ppf or going with a conventional cross brace for the tranny, and a diff hanger bracket? I have read that it'll destroy the liveliness of the car, but I'm not convinced.
Anyways, updates soon.
Any opinions on retaining the stock ppf or going with a conventional cross brace for the tranny, and a diff hanger bracket? I have read that it'll destroy the liveliness of the car, but I'm not convinced.
Anyways, updates soon.
Well as for the PPF. It would depend, if your planning to keep the stock Miata diff, then making a PPF bracket like the one company could be easier. It be one brackets instead of two brackets. Also since the stock Miata diff doesn't already have locations for a standard mount, it would make that easier.










