Boost Addicts SR20det engine conversion - Page 5 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-23-2010, 01:38 PM   #81
Elite Member
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: oahu
Posts: 1,720
Total Cats: 2
Default

I like this build and the fact you are making it go before making it pretty (and the chalkboard fender isn't helping things). That im looks great, what is it? Also are you using the 5 speed that the main bearing falls apart and plays plinko through the gearsets? If so have you put in a new one/planning on putting a new one in?

Personally I would try to keep the ppf, the miata is a pretty flimsy chassis unless you are going to cage it. If you are caging it then I don't think it would be fine.
astroboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2010, 01:45 PM   #82
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
paNX2K&SE-R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Mocksville, NC
Posts: 676
Total Cats: 11
Default

I'm liking the progress so far!
paNX2K&SE-R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2010, 02:19 PM   #83
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 262
Total Cats: 0
Default

Did you pull some dimensions on the oil Pam that you built? That would be great to have...

Great job btw.
localtech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2010, 03:05 PM   #84
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 176
Total Cats: -4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Truck Bed Liner!

Bad pic..
Boost_addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2010, 03:11 PM   #85
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 176
Total Cats: -4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by astroboy View Post
are you using the 5 speed that the main bearing falls apart and plays plinko through the gearsets? If so have you put in a new one/planning on putting a new one in?

Personally I would try to keep the ppf, the miata is a pretty flimsy chassis unless you are going to cage it. If you are caging it then I don't think it would be fine.
I've never heard of this before, but I know it's got an aftermarket clutch in it, so maybe it has thebearing taken care of too? Idk we'll find out.. As far as the ppf, I will be removing it, but structural support will take it's place too..
Quote:
Originally Posted by localtech View Post
Did you pull some dimensions on the oil Pam that you built? That would be great to have...

Great job btw.
8" from belhousing to front of sump, and the thin part is 1.5 deep. The 45* cuts are essential, and they begin 1.5" from the edge of the sump, to where they meet at the front of the sump (side to side axis, not on the 45*). The oil pan goes as deep as the bottom of the bellhousig flange. I hope that's clear, let me know if I need to go more in depth.

Last edited by Boost_addict; 12-23-2010 at 04:44 PM.
Boost_addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 03:57 AM   #86
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver
Posts: 909
Total Cats: 14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by astroboy View Post

Personally I would try to keep the ppf, the miata is a pretty flimsy chassis unless you are going to cage it. If you are caging it then I don't think it would be fine.
I have to disagree, the miata is a pretty stout chassis, ask all the v8 conversion guys that don't run the ppf, and have over 300# feet of torque.
hingstonwm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 03:58 AM   #87
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,831
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
I have to disagree, the miata is a pretty stout chassis, ask all the v8 conversion guys that don't run the ppf, and have over 300# feet of torque.
+1

although chassis bracing is never a bad thing. what year is hte car agian?

EDIT: its a 1.6 chassis right, more often than not the older chassis tend to be weak dont they, due to age and lack of updated chassis bracing?
WonTon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 11:31 AM   #88
Elite Member
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: oahu
Posts: 1,720
Total Cats: 2
Default

I know my 90 chassis was very noodley. I am not saying the engine will twist the chassis; I just think it would have as good a feel without the ppf, that's all.
astroboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 12:25 PM   #89
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Istanbul, Turkey
Posts: 2,050
Total Cats: 433
Default

Just a quick question:

I see that you have located your drain plug on the forward end of your oil pan, and the drain plug goes in at a 45 degree angle.

Considering your engine will be tilted back 5-10 degrees, and that the plug itself sits above the bottom of the oil pan, wouldn't draining the oil be a bitch during oil changes?

I mean, having the plug at the back, and some sort of an arrangement so all of the oil can drain easily would be a better long term approach IMO.

Other than that, ballsy and very cool conversion. Congrats.
Godless Commie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 01:09 PM   #90
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 61
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
Just a quick question:

I see that you have located your drain plug on the forward end of your oil pan, and the drain plug goes in at a 45 degree angle.

Considering your engine will be tilted back 5-10 degrees, and that the plug itself sits above the bottom of the oil pan, wouldn't draining the oil be a bitch during oil changes?

I mean, having the plug at the back, and some sort of an arrangement so all of the oil can drain easily would be a better long term approach IMO.

Other than that, ballsy and very cool conversion. Congrats.
#


The car will be jacked up when getting the oil changed, so not too difficult to lift the back a few inch's higher to get a better flow.

I wouldnt worry to much about it.
Or you could use one of them pump things and suck it out the top.
twail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 02:52 PM   #91
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 176
Total Cats: -4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
Just a quick question:

I see that you have located your drain plug on the forward end of your oil pan, and the drain plug goes in at a 45 degree angle.

Considering your engine will be tilted back 5-10 degrees, and that the plug itself sits above the bottom of the oil pan, wouldn't draining the oil be a bitch during oil changes?

I mean, having the plug at the back, and some sort of an arrangement so all of the oil can drain easily would be a better long term approach IMO.

Other than that, ballsy and very cool conversion. Congrats.
Thank you, and you're right about the oil bung, it was just the only spot it could really fit without having ground interference (not good, I'm pretty low)
Boost_addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2010, 05:53 PM   #92
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 176
Total Cats: -4
Default

wanted to see what you guys thought about this little situation i have here. the speedo for the sr20s tranny is electric.. does this mean that i'll have to use an nissan guage cluster? any other ways of making it work?
Boost_addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2010, 07:10 PM   #93
Hittin' Boost & Cones
iTrader: (2)
 
240_to_miata's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cromwell, Connecticut
Posts: 2,572
Total Cats: 11
Default

Probably the easiest thing to do. I think there is an electric to cable conversion kit somewhere but it probably isnt cheap .
240_to_miata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 04:37 AM   #94
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: langley BC
Posts: 134
Total Cats: 0
Default

you could allways get an autometer one... and at the same time and replace all the factory gauges with autometer ****... (tach, OP, WT, fuel level ect...) looks cool and works awesome
sasquatch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 04:40 AM   #95
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,831
Total Cats: 0
Default

what he said!
WonTon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 07:31 AM   #96
Elite Member
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: oahu
Posts: 1,720
Total Cats: 2
Default

I second autometer if you have the cash to blow...otherwise make the Nissan one work.
astroboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 08:07 PM   #97
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 176
Total Cats: -4
Default

I'm sure a few of you guys will be pleased with this..

Started my wire tuck

Name:  8b9c03b9.jpg
Views: 17
Size:  63.8 KB

Also tucking other things, like the charcoal canister will be in front of the wheel, with the overflow tank; invisible.

Getting rid of that awful red paint as well.. Currently just primed.. It got dark too soon to paint as well, so I'll do that tomorrow.

Name:  ea6be515.jpg
Views: 17
Size:  61.6 KB

The whole swap is taking longer than planned (of course) but it Is steadily taking form. I would rather make it perfect than to just 'get er done'...

Updates soon!
Boost_addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 09:30 PM   #98
Elite Member
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: oahu
Posts: 1,720
Total Cats: 2
Default

What color are you going to do the bay?
astroboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 11:10 PM   #99
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Outside of the Loop-ATL
Posts: 754
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost_addict View Post
wanted to see what you guys thought about this little situation i have here. the speedo for the sr20s tranny is electric.. does this mean that i'll have to use an nissan guage cluster? any other ways of making it work?
another option would be to look at the NB gauge cluster, they use an electric speedo.
wildfire0310 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 11:31 PM   #100
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 176
Total Cats: -4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by astroboy View Post
What color are you going to do the bay?
Gloss black

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildfire0310 View Post
another option would be to look at the NB gauge cluster, they use an electric speedo.
Will that drop in my na dash?
Boost_addict is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Garrett Turbo, 1.8 Oil Pan, & Misc. Stuff nbdooey Miata parts for sale/trade 9 08-30-2017 10:50 PM
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 57 07-19-2017 05:11 PM
Changing from 460cc to flow force 610cc in diypnp 90 Turbo MEGAsquirt 19 10-19-2015 04:23 PM
Expected intake temps on the track? tazswing Race Prep 20 10-03-2015 12:04 PM
Going back to stock. Need some 1.6 parts. Trent WTB 2 10-01-2015 01:15 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:52 AM.