I like this build and the fact you are making it go before making it pretty (and the chalkboard fender isn't helping things). That im looks great, what is it? Also are you using the 5 speed that the main bearing falls apart and plays plinko through the gearsets? If so have you put in a new one/planning on putting a new one in?

Personally I would try to keep the ppf, the miata is a pretty flimsy chassis unless you are going to cage it. If you are caging it then I don't think it would be fine.

 

I'm liking the progress so far!

 

Did you pull some dimensions on the oil Pam that you built? That would be great to have...

Great job btw.

 

Bad pic..

 

I've never heard of this before, but I know it's got an aftermarket clutch in it, so maybe it has thebearing taken care of too? Idk we'll find out.. As far as the ppf, I will be removing it, but structural support will take it's place too..
8" from belhousing to front of sump, and the thin part is 1.5 deep. The 45* cuts are essential, and they begin 1.5" from the edge of the sump, to where they meet at the front of the sump (side to side axis, not on the 45*). The oil pan goes as deep as the bottom of the bellhousig flange. I hope that's clear, let me know if I need to go more in depth.

 

I have to disagree, the miata is a pretty stout chassis, ask all the v8 conversion guys that don't run the ppf, and have over 300# feet of torque.

 

+1

although chassis bracing is never a bad thing. what year is hte car agian?

EDIT: its a 1.6 chassis right, more often than not the older chassis tend to be weak dont they, due to age and lack of updated chassis bracing?

 

I know my 90 chassis was very noodley. I am not saying the engine will twist the chassis; I just think it would have as good a feel without the ppf, that's all.

 

Just a quick question:

I see that you have located your drain plug on the forward end of your oil pan, and the drain plug goes in at a 45 degree angle.

Considering your engine will be tilted back 5-10 degrees, and that the plug itself sits above the bottom of the oil pan, wouldn't draining the oil be a bitch during oil changes?

I mean, having the plug at the back, and some sort of an arrangement so all of the oil can drain easily would be a better long term approach IMO.

Other than that, ballsy and very cool conversion. Congrats.

 

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The car will be jacked up when getting the oil changed, so not too difficult to lift the back a few inch's higher to get a better flow.

I wouldnt worry to much about it.
Or you could use one of them pump things and suck it out the top.

 

Thank you, and you're right about the oil bung, it was just the only spot it could really fit without having ground interference (not good, I'm pretty low)

 

wanted to see what you guys thought about this little situation i have here. the speedo for the sr20s tranny is electric.. does this mean that i'll have to use an nissan guage cluster? any other ways of making it work?

 

Probably the easiest thing to do. I think there is an electric to cable conversion kit somewhere but it probably isnt cheap .

 

you could allways get an autometer one... and at the same time and replace all the factory gauges with autometer ****... (tach, OP, WT, fuel level ect...) looks cool and works awesome

 

what he said!

 

I second autometer if you have the cash to blow...otherwise make the Nissan one work.

 

I'm sure a few of you guys will be pleased with this..

Started my wire tuck



Also tucking other things, like the charcoal canister will be in front of the wheel, with the overflow tank; invisible.

Getting rid of that awful red paint as well.. Currently just primed.. It got dark too soon to paint as well, so I'll do that tomorrow.



The whole swap is taking longer than planned (of course) but it Is steadily taking form. I would rather make it perfect than to just 'get er done'...

Updates soon!

 

What color are you going to do the bay?

 

another option would be to look at the NB gauge cluster, they use an electric speedo.

 

Gloss black

Will that drop in my na dash?