I would say somewhere in between...maybe somebody local to you has a car with some delrin mounts you can go for a ride along in.

 

You may want to think twice about the delrin mounts. They work great but I had a set in my miata with a 1.8L and it made everything shake it makes the car feel like a drag car.lol But unless you really don't mind vibration I would stay away from its the same as a solid mount. In my 92 all the dash shook the seats, gauges everything it was not such a great idea.

 

Ok that's good to know.. I'll stick with stockers then.. Unless I take a ride in a solid mount car I like.. Anyone In the ft laud area?

 

It deff. gives that awesome race car feel but it gets real old real quick.lol

 

i suck, all the pics i took are worthless. i'll have to try again in daylight. in meantime, this old pic gives rough idea. honestly, the tilt of the motor doesn't look much different than the pic posted by 240_to_miata. the trouble i had was with the motor in this orientation, the shifter was centered perfectly in the tunnel, but 1st was close to verticle where you would normally expect 3rd to be. so shifting to 3rd felt like 5th. we are probalby only talking about 10 maybe 15 degrees, but it was annoying enough i had the shifter heated up and bent and redid the bushing.



that ppf thing. to be honest, i've never held a ppf in my hand, so i'm not sure how hard it would be to get it mounted to sr trany. i suggested giving a shot because it just looks pita to get a torsen solidly mounted to the subframe. i'll try to get some pics of mine tomorow so you can see what i'm talking about.

i'll try to get some motor mounts and front sway too. the front sway (rb in my case) is really close to the crank pully. easiest fix would be to put an aftermarket pully to get some clearance there though.

the other fitment issue ive got is the stock sr exhaust manifold doesn't fit so well. my temporary fix is topmount while i work on making a bottom mount for the car. sounds like your stock mani/turbo fits. in long run doesn't really matter, but sure helps getting the thing back on the ground if it does.

 

Does your shifter feel fine with it bent? Or does It feel weird?.. I would really prefer having the engine vertical if I can.. It would keep me from having to cut the oil pan up a bit..

 

The shifter in my miata is bent cut and welded to get it where I wanted it. It feels just like a normal shifter in any other car but when you pull it out and look at it you would think it would never work.

 

Ok this is good news. I would love to have the shifter sitting stock, but it's an Inch back and at an angle now... I guess as you said it would never look like it works.

 

perfect now. its not all the fault of the shifter/swap though. it took few attempts to get the position where my elbow doesn't hit the seat in 2nd but i can still reach 3rd and 5th easily (with harnesses tight). i'm using stock sr shifter but i shortened it a pinch when replacing the bushing. you probalby don't have to jump through all these hoops as i had to. i just wanted to point it out as its something easy to overlook...

i took a bunch of pics, i'll post them up here when i get home. i also did some thinking about the ve head swap thing and i'm wondering if it wouldn't just be better to forget the cam angle sensor thing altogether. saves having to buy a 20v cas as well as the packaging headache. (i wonder how hard it would be to run crank sensor only sequential ms3. probalby would be feasible with the crank angle code work being done now). if its feasible for crank only then you always have the option later on.

EDIT: had a re-think on the sequential/crank only and it seems maybe not possible. batch mode is probably an ok compromise though.

 

says 3" from firewall to edge of spark plug cover.





passenger side motor mount


driver side motor mount

 

Getting the diff mounted solid is actually pretty straight forward. Mounting the ppf to any transmission case not designed to carry the load is just asking for trouble.

Here are a couple of pics from my swap without ppf.

 

Thank you guys for the pics i appreciate it, and it helps.

Hignstonwm, your approach looks very reasonable, I am just curious as to if the sr20s extra torque will have it's way more than an f20c.. Either way it'll likely be the way I do it.. Possible that I'll just use that Delrin from work for the connection point for it's connection.. Ball joints aren't free.


Jasonb, thanks for going the length to take these pics.

It's great to see the same design of tranny mount is working fine for you (along with hignstonwm's diff brace) I say **** the ppf. Now it looks like you have the engine a good 3/4-1" forward from my mock up.. Is the a reason for this, or were you trying to get your shifter in the middle of it's stock location? Also, how would you say the space beneath the car looks for a 3" exhaust? That's the plan for me, but with my car as low as it is, I can't have anything below the frame..

Motor mounts are coming along btw. Should have some presentable material soon.

 

Here is a shot of my 3" exhaust before I got rid of the "s" bend you can see it's tight but there is room. My final exhaust crosses under the car at a diaginol, creating the room needed for the fuel pump. Both systems were even with the chassis rails. The under car hot was taken before i ran the braided lines for the fuel system.

 

Cool thank you Hopefully the sr20s trans isnt too much bigger.

Got a little necessary trimming done to the driverside mount flange, and it looks like it'll work great. Just so you guys know, those are not even the right bolts.. Just so I could see it there.



And with my little Delrin mount (same height as a stock mount) for reference of actual size



Gotta pull the starter off to get the driverside mount on.. Lol I didn't have time today..

Anyways its coming together, updates soon.

 

don't mention it - besides it took me long enough. i want to tell u, this is quite cool to watch another sr miata get built. chassis and motor are both great platforms.

the shifter is centered in cutout in the tunnel (see pic below), you may have to modify the cutout slightly if you move it back much. exhaust looks fine to me. i took a pic of the lowest point (going under the diff) for you. hingstonm has a little bit different design, but iirc he doesn't have the subframe brace whereas i still have.

i got some pics there of my modified subframe. i wouldn't suggest this design though, since there is a lot of force going through something which isn't solidly mounted. i'm looking to redo it but haven't settled on a design yet. interested in your thoughts on this. (i want something which can withstand 500hp).

 

I personally am looking at a diff brace somewhere in between you two. With a solid mount coming from a more centered top, but with the renaming ppf bracket would still be the core; after all we know it holds on well. I'll try to make a drawing and post it up. I at least think that should be plenty strong for Both of us.

 

Here's that drawing I said I would make.. "the plan" anyways.. Maybe it'll vary, we'll see.

 

sorry I don't have anything more valuable to add but


***** cun dra!

 

Thanks G

 

i haz a sudden fascination w/ that drawing.

found this in one of my photos from earlier today. um.