brgracer's build thread
#1
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brgracer's build thread
Yes, I know I have been seriously MIA, but wife, two kids, and too many projects will do that to you. I still have a long way to go, but figured that I would at least start the build thread, and yes, I promise that there is a turbo in there eventually.
I was in the process of rebuilding a motor and a new turbo setup for my current brg when I negotiated a deal on a much cleaner shell with an AWR widebody kit already installed, fresh paint, and some other goodies. The shell came with a gutted interior and stock drivetrain as well as r-pack lip, 1.8 brakes, chassis braces, manual steering rack, and 1.8 open diff.
So I started by pulling the stock drivetrain.
Cleaned up rusty area underneath brake booster and installed the built shortblock and a 6-speed trans. Built shortblock consists of 0.020" overbore, wiseco pistons 8.5:1 comp ratio (ceramic top coat, dry film side coat, oil shedding bottom coat), CAT forged rods, ACL bearings, balanced rotating assembly, billet OP gears, shimmed oil pump, ARP head studs, cometic HG, and Clutchnet 3x PP with 6 puck disk. Also installed RX-7 diff with cryo'ed 3.63 R/P as well as suspension stuff (Tein Flex, FM front sway).
Then installed the worked head and thicker alum rad. Worked head consists of ported and ceramic coated intake/exhaust, ceramic coated combustion chambers, Supertech valvetrain with MS solid lifters and shim under bucket conversion, 5-angle valve job, Fidanza cam gears, Integral stage 3 cams. With the billet OP, balanced rotating assembly, and stiffer valve springs, I should be able to spin to around 8500rpm.
Since then, I have test run the engine on stock ECU, then wired in COPS and MS and did another test run with success.
I was in the process of rebuilding a motor and a new turbo setup for my current brg when I negotiated a deal on a much cleaner shell with an AWR widebody kit already installed, fresh paint, and some other goodies. The shell came with a gutted interior and stock drivetrain as well as r-pack lip, 1.8 brakes, chassis braces, manual steering rack, and 1.8 open diff.
So I started by pulling the stock drivetrain.
Cleaned up rusty area underneath brake booster and installed the built shortblock and a 6-speed trans. Built shortblock consists of 0.020" overbore, wiseco pistons 8.5:1 comp ratio (ceramic top coat, dry film side coat, oil shedding bottom coat), CAT forged rods, ACL bearings, balanced rotating assembly, billet OP gears, shimmed oil pump, ARP head studs, cometic HG, and Clutchnet 3x PP with 6 puck disk. Also installed RX-7 diff with cryo'ed 3.63 R/P as well as suspension stuff (Tein Flex, FM front sway).
Then installed the worked head and thicker alum rad. Worked head consists of ported and ceramic coated intake/exhaust, ceramic coated combustion chambers, Supertech valvetrain with MS solid lifters and shim under bucket conversion, 5-angle valve job, Fidanza cam gears, Integral stage 3 cams. With the billet OP, balanced rotating assembly, and stiffer valve springs, I should be able to spin to around 8500rpm.
Since then, I have test run the engine on stock ECU, then wired in COPS and MS and did another test run with success.
Last edited by brgracer; 01-02-2009 at 10:12 PM.
#2
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Then it got hella cold so started working on the interior. Car came as below.
Removed dash and cleaned up some MS/gauge wiring.
Installed AEM boost/WB gauges in a-pillar, cleaned up the interior, insulated the tranny tunnel, and started installing a black interior.
Removed dash and cleaned up some MS/gauge wiring.
Installed AEM boost/WB gauges in a-pillar, cleaned up the interior, insulated the tranny tunnel, and started installing a black interior.
#5
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i love the interior conversion, unfortunately both of my miatas have tan interior. Those fender flares look like a ball-less *******. However, it looks like we now have two, built turbo 6-speed brg's on here.
nice radiator:
nice radiator:
#8
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I upped the fronts to 9kg and left the rear at 6kg. I was tempted to run 10kg in the front, but figured that I'd try the 9kg first. I'm running an FM front sway and stock rear sway.
Will probably put on a set of 15x8 or 16x8, 0 offset SM/XXR wheels for now with 225/45/15 or 225/40/16 RS2 rubber since that's the widest non r-comp tire for 15/16" as the 245 tires available don't really translate to much wider on an 8" wheel (diff for a 9" wheel). Leaning toward 15" because there is a much bigger selection of tires. Aside from really pricey wheels (think 3k+ a set), I haven't found any other 15x8 or 16x8 wheels with a really low offset that will fill the flares without spacers. In the long run, I'll probably end up with 15x9 6ULs with r-comps when I become a better driver for the track, but I just don't feel like running 36mm spacers at the moment. To be completely honest, settling for the cheaper SM/XXR wheels as a hold me over until either I convince myself to pony up for a killer set of wheels or hoping for the slim chance that Emilio may one day make a low offset batch of 6ULs for those of us with flares.
Ironic coming from the man with the only set of 3.3 Mazda gears that I know. I would have traded you long ago.
Ironic coming from the man with the only set of 3.3 Mazda gears that I know. I would have traded you long ago.
Last edited by brgracer; 01-02-2009 at 10:06 PM.
#12
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Yeah I'm just thinking that the 3.3 isn't as appropriate with the new car since I'm no longer interested in going for 400 whp. I'm thinking more about just doing some serious headwork and being happy with immediate spool and 300whp (limit of 2560).
#13
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Flipside IM pics. It should be getting here next week so I can install it. Pics are from his test mockup to make sure everything fit correctly. He also clocked the mustang TB so the stock throttle cable would be routed under the IM for a cleaner install.