.86

 

Energy Suspension Hyperflex Master Set. Black is not graphite impregnated in the Miata application, just in case anybody still thought it was. These will go on with flush mount grease fittings. The question is when.

 

Solid start man. Looks like we'll have another big boy powered car out there soon

 

Great build so far, can't wait to see the finished product!

 

Update:

Clutch and flywheel installed.


Tapped the holes for PCV and Brake booster with NPT threads. They'll get plugged and I'll be using that hole right thur for the brake booster.

Fueling stuff.



I love this lens.


Where'd this come from?


Test fitting the top half of the IM. It's a tight fit with the VTPS on there.


Ordered fuel fittings from anplumbing.com. I decided not to do the whole fuel system in SS lines, just the feed line from the T to the fuel rail. It's cheaper/easier that way. I did have a revelation. For going from -6an to 5/16 hose barb, use part # 700106. It's not listed and I had to call to find out about it.

 

Nice build.

Coils? If those are 1.6 coils you'll probably need something stronger for 300+ if you want to run a decent gap.

 

Digging the PTFE lines and fittings. They're on my list of things to do.

I would look long and hard at whether the MS1 is going to take you to 350whp safely. It won't do knock control, individual trims, good closed loop feedback, etc. AEMs are cheap, shoot me a PM and I can get you a good deal on one. You're going to want crank triggering, good knock control, etc.

I assume the PTFE fittings mean you are looking at E85 at some point - you may need to do something larger than a 750cc injector if that's the case. I put a set of ID1000s in my car ~6 weeks ago and I'm liking them so far.

I don't know what the ACT XT street disc is rated to, but you may want to look into something rated for serious power. Last thing you want to do is throw an intake manifold onto the car, make 370whp, and slip the clutch. 949 twindisc FTW.

Don't rely on water injection to make the power. With a good IM and the .86 hotside you should have no problems making 350whp on straight pump gas. Once you have the tune dialed in, stick a 3gph nozzle after the intercooler for ultimate safety.

300wtq and the panties start dropping. I made 310whp/305wtq at 18psi on that turbo on a low-compression 1.9 liter and a stock intake manifold. 2 liter, good IM, ~21psi, 350whp may be a low estimate.

 

I spent 4 hours yesterday putting the motor in, hardest engine insertion I've ever done. Just over an inch longer than the 1.6 and all of a sudden it becomes much harder to put it in. I used a load balancer for the first time and can't say that it made it any easier.

Bolting in the motor mounts were equally difficult. It almost seems like the engine is sitting too far forwards, based on the way the motor mount bolts were lining up. I remember there are slots in the PPF (with the top nuts on a sliding bracket) where the transmission mounts to it, are these to account for different distances between the engine and differential?

I also assembled one of the SS Teflon-lined hose ends. Piece of cake! I'm talking about the smaller -4AN stuff too. I don't know about the Earls stuff, but I used Parker industrial fittings and hose.


Thanks! Your setup is what really inspired me to go with this turbo.

Upgrading to MS2 may be all I need. Crank triggering, increased resolution, knock control, "supposedly" better closed loop boost control, no individual trims though. The AEM does look significantly better. You have me thinking on that one...

The thought never occured to me. For now though, only part of the fuel system is teflon-lined. The injectors were a good deal though.

Only 300ft/lb, ACT underrates them, but it definitely won't get me to my goal.

This is what I love to hear!

I can't wait!

Yes, forgot to mention Toyota COPS are planned, or maybe LS1 coils like Ben.

 

 

My S4 manifold has held up for 2+ years. Use the provided brace and no worries.

 

Sick build man, I have a similar motor, can't wait to see how it stacks up to yours!

 

Have you seen DIY Autotune's new monster coil thread? They've got some serious coils out now. I found the link: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t43821/

 

If this manifold ever cracks, I'm going straight to an externally gated full V-band setup.

I saw the coils, they look amazing, but I don't think (hope) I'll be needing that much juice.

I figured out why the motor was such a PITA to install... Today, in the daylight, I noticed this.


So I did this. Apply liberal amounts of JB Weld. There was only a single thread left.


Problem solved.


To make sure the CLT sensor won't make contact with the thermostat in operation, I tapped a 1/4 to 1/8 NPT bushing with M12x1.5 threads. Go slow when drilling it out. The bit caught and destroyed my brass test bushing.


Finished thermostat housing and spacer. I'm T-ing the outlet of the heater core into the lower radiator hose as it's primarily a street car.


Where do you guys buy your new GT2871Rs at? They don't exist in used condition.

 

subscribed. ATPturbo.com sell GT2871R

 

I think turbotim is an ATPturbo dealer if I'm not mistaken and might be able to help or at least guide you in the correct direction for one.

 

Guess what? I got a fever, and the only prescription is more AbsurdFlow.

 

Great build so far. Are you sure you want to go with the slower spooling .86 for 350whp? This is my friend's 2.0L S14 on the .64:

 

S14 ≠ Miata

It's pretty much been decided that the .64 A/R will not flow 350whp, on a Miata. That can be seen Here. Come to think of it, that's the exact motor that I'm running.

I did notice while searching other car forums for a 2871 that they claimed (and posted dynosheets, like yours) that the .64 A/R could make upwards of 400whp. What gives?

 

should have called me. I was off all week!!!!

LMK if might have a free saturday or two.

 

Nice job on the reroute, it's all exactly what I did. I milled down the top of the thermo cover and welded a plate over the top to avoid the lack of threads. I milled it so low the cutter took off the top of the lip for the hose. Might look into it, if your welder is good enough, it'll remove a potential leakage spot.