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Old 08-04-2011, 05:01 PM   #101
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i like how the WG mounts to the back of the compressor housing so you can clock it how you want.

At this point I am convinced that I will never turbo the NB.
I should but a turbo on the wedding registry lol.
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:04 PM   #102
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How long till the turbo goes on? curious to see how that turbo lights up for one of my 2L bros
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:04 AM   #103
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The knocking sound has nothing, but nothing to do by how your pistons look. As long as you have good compression, to have a forged piston crown a little bit melted is nothing.

Your knocking is something else, whoever worked on the bearings clearances messed up.

My engine is running 17 psi now, yesterday I raped a Shelby GT 500 by half car with bad crowns, as long as there is no smoke, no overheating, good compression its all good.

You had to much timing, the spark plugs gap and spark plug choice etc...



Look at my engine, some sanding, wd40 and good to go...



You go into extremes about shims, etc, bla bla, the BP engine is a workhorse, its the M9 of the military.

Those chunks of piston crown were sanded off, after that I decided to go for a spin which a half hour ride became 2 hours as I got tired of messing around with S2000, STis, Mustangs, until that freakin Shelby from hell gave me a good battle.

Supertech pistons [email protected] 84mm.

No matter your AFRs, stick with NGK7, gap it to .025 or lower, 93 octane and conservative ignition timing.

Note:

I saw the video, there were a few readings to redline in the 12.9 to 13.2 afrs which is not good at all, no it is not rich.
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Last edited by mazpr; 08-15-2011 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:58 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazpr View Post

I saw the video, there were a few readings to redline in the 12.9 to 13.2 afrs which is not good at all, no it is not rich.
He wasnt boosted in that video. Those AFR's are fine for NA, but optimal power wont be hit until you get 11.5-12.0:1
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:32 AM   #105
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Blown rear diff? Just saw the vid on the tube..
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:42 AM   #106
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Quote:
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The knocking sound has nothing, but nothing to do by how your pistons look. As long as you have good compression, to have a forged piston crown a little bit melted is nothing.
You are an idiot.
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:04 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
You are an idiot.
Let's not get personal.

Care to make any comments about the substance of what was said that may be of benefit? I agree with you it does sound strange and I wouldn't do it myself.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:11 PM   #108
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Quote:
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Blown rear diff? Just saw the vid on the tube..
Luckily that video was taken in 2008. I just came across it and posted it recently.

I've been a little preoccupied with school lately. I have done some stuff to the car audio-wise lately.

The turbo keeps taunting me on my desk, I'll get around to it sooner or later.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:56 PM   #109
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You can send to me.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:58 PM   #110
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It would be really nice to get it boosted before winter.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:44 PM   #111
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Good news. I now have a knocking sound. It happens at a frequency of ~4.5hz, 270 times per minute and an 1100 rpm idle. That's 1 knock for every 4 revolutions of the motor.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:42 PM   #112
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Look! Sound!

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12114789/ZOOM0013.MP3

Also of note, it seems to double-up in frequency on decel.
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:08 PM   #113
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I hate these oil pump screws. Whichever engineer decided to use these should be shot and killed. Currently, my hammer-driven impact screwdriver won't get them to budge.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:22 PM   #114
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check all the other rotating **** attached to your motor before pulling the motor. cam gears, pulleys, damper blah blah.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:34 PM   #115
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Umm, too late.



I did verify that the sound was coming from within the motor and all accessible bolts on the head were torqued properly. It sounded louder when the stethoscope was held against the block vs the head. I've been needing to pull it anyways to inspect the oil pressure relief valve but I cannot get the damn screws removed.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:36 PM   #116
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Oh the irony of the title of this thread. It's been taking 2 or more seconds to get oil pressure every morning. I tried a different oil filter with a better anti-drainback valve.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:11 PM   #117
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Unfortunately I have no mod powers in this section, otherwise...

Bryce's mother EFRing 6258 2 liter - now with less oil pressure
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:20 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Unfortunately I have no mod powers in this section, otherwise...

Bryce's mother EFRing 6258 2 liter - now with less oil pressure
I can make that happen.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:27 PM   #119
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Woot!
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:38 PM   #120
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1 on the right, 5 on the left.

I haven't started measuring anything yet. I did notice that the wrist pins slide freely within the pistons. They aren't loose per say, but I could remove them with fingertip pressure if I were to remove a retaining clip. From what I have read, this is bad, but I can't believe that a shop who had their hands on this motor 5k miles ago would allow this if it were bad.

Last edited by Bryce; 10-23-2011 at 11:58 PM.
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