ByteVenom

On jack stands its the same. On the road it seems to be slightly less effort for the first 10 or so degrees. As I drive the car more, I notice it less/the issue seems to be going away.

Also FML, I broke the bolt for the Crank sensor. It kept on coming loose, so I went to tighten it and boop snapped inside whatever boss it threads into. While drilling out the bolt, the boss snapped.
I managed to get a stud into the left over hole, JB welded the hell out of it. Then JB welded my crank sensor onto that. I really have no idea what to do as a more permanent solution.
From my observation, the crank sensor bolt seems to thread into the oil pump. ...so, is an oil pump replacement in order?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

​​​​​​​Yep you will need to replace the oil pump.

ByteVenom

Womp womp, and that can't be done without pulling the motor/subframe.
Any alternative solutions (not based on alternative facts) ? Maybe mounting the Cas on the other side of the pulley with a bracket? Grinding down the AC bracket to get the cas to mount onto the mounting bolt?

vitamin j

iTrader: (5)

When that happened to me I took a pair of pliers to the CKP bracket, bent it up, and bolted it to the AC mount so the sensor was in about the right place.

ByteVenom

I ended up fabbing up a new bracket.
Just to meet room requirements, I decided the CKP would reside at about 5 o'clock (in relation to the crankpulley).
I had some 1/4 aluminum bar lying around which I drilled one hole into. I then screwed it to AC bracket. From there I positioned the CKP and ensured it could be positioned tangent to the timing wheel.
From there I marked where the CKP hole was on the aluminum plate. Drilled it and attempted to position everything for the first time.
The CKP's plastic body was hitting the crank pulley, and so was the bracket.
Out came the angle grinder and clearancing began. I had to remove a decent amount of meat from both the sensor and the bracket.
However, after gapping the sensor, I still was not getting any sort of sync. I noticed that the sensor was way too far forward. I moved the sensor behind my bracket and added washers in between the AC bracket and my fabricfucked bracket.

Now the funny story.....my no RPM sync reason was 32. Which relates to a cam sensor issue.
I had an extra cam sensor lying around (the original from the motor). Stuck it in, and car started right up.

More fuckery ensued. My TPS is giving a shaky value which activates accel enrich. I switched over to MAP accel enrich so that the car wasn't adding fuel ***** nilly. I've ordered a new sensor, checked my grounds and I'll see what happens from there.
The car also ran like absolute crap. Any throttle above 20% resulted in insane misfires. I checked my cam timing and it seemed to be 2/3 teeth off on the exhaust cam. I'm thinking that when I first had my crank sensor fail the engine bucking caused timing to jump.

I haven't had the chance to drive the car yet.

ByteVenom

Alright its been two months.

Got a RusEFI Frankenso, and oh so thankful for it. My car has never ran so well. To those that are sketched out by the "DIY-ness" of the product, if you're willing to do some work on your end to make things work, on the cheap, it is SO worth it.

Updates in terms of hardware:
New SR20 turbo, with fresh rebuild. Smoked a ton with no restrictor, with a 1.5mm restrictor from eBay motorsports, zero smoking.
Finished my custom 2.5 exhaust. I need to adjust some hangers, and probably redo the section that goes by the diff. I get some major vibrations from there. Car is still much nicer to drive now that its muffled. I have so many burnspots from welding and forgetting that metal gets hot.
I'll admit my flux-core welds look nothing like sweet dimes. But they look 10x better than they did 2 months ago.

I think the car is fairly sorted for now, I'm looking to get an EWG eventually for the taco taco manifold.

My biggest issue however with the RusEFI, is that there just isn't much tuning knowledge on the internet yet. I can't yet just ask on here what different knock values mean from the sensor, and what threshold to use. My next objective is definietly to make sure I'm not knocking in boost.

That reminds me, does anyone know how to use one of the eBay MBCs? I bought one like 6 months ago, and could never figure out how to get it to work. It would always just to shoot to unlimited boost. My GT2554 is fun at 8PSI....but I definitely want to get to 12 (top at 14 eventually), to get to 200-230whp.

EBC is on my mind as well, thinking of using the MAC valves. Does anyone have any experience using those? I've heard those are used by AEM for their TruBoost controllers.

vitamin j

iTrader: (5)

The cheap MBCs all work the same. With the screw all the way loose you will be on wastegate pressure and as you screw it in the boost will go up. Sounds like you either have the screw too tight or the vac lines backwards.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

no they don't. there's the bleed type garbage, and there's the ball+spring type which actually works

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Just get an ebc brah...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

only if his ecu can control it.

ByteVenom

I should be able to using RusEFI's Flexible Logic (FSIO). I just need to power it, and wire in a signal.

ByteVenom

Any advice on how to route the exhaust from the driveshaft, through the diff and out? 2.5 seems kinda big for the space between the underdiff bracing and the axle. I could try adding another hanger somewhere to prevent movement. Going down hills is a terribly loud experience, as the exhaust is bouncing off the axle.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

You should come look at the routing on my FM one when you're here this weekend.

ByteVenom

I've also noticed some fun oil burning on decel. However it only seems to happen after boost (anything above 100kpa).
I'm running a baffled catch can, and a 323 GTX PCV valve (Well, I ordered a beck/arnely one that was the right p/n). I need to get access to a leak down tester, but the last time I did a compression test, I was around 180 across the board. - before someone loses their top because I tried saying my engine is probably healthy because of a compression test, I'm aware a compression test doesn't tell you everything.
Rings?
I did my valve stem seals recently (Mahle). Maybe I messed up the install and damaged them? I just pressed them on until I f

ByteVenom

I have no excuses

ByteVenom

Will most likely be buying these vents: NB Miata MX-5 Hood Vents ? R Theory Motorsports they look siqqqqq, and do exactly what I need.

Also, I for some reason cannot get below 750 rpm no matter what % my idle valve is at. This might sound like a dumb question, but I'm running 16 degrees of timing at idle. Could this be it?
I'm very unsure of why I'm running so much timing at idle. Once I get back to my car, I'll set it back down to 10 degrees and see if things go back to normal.

ByteVenom

Just a pic for fun

Docterhow

Is that your volvo? I'd love to get a P1800ES one day.

ByteVenom

It’s my girlfriend’s dad’s!
I welded the front rockers back in, most of it had rusted away.