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I have not gotten to drag mine to a track day yet with boost, but I have had my Supermiata Crossflow in for 2 years now. I have yet to see any temps above 190F which is where thw thermostat opens. And this is with a FMIC and no ducting.
Tax returns are finally coming in so we're moving! Supermiata clutch, radiator, and reroute are on order, gonna put them in over Easter weekend. Speeduino will be ordered when they come back in stock next week. Stretch goal is boosted and shaken down by memorial day weekend for a mountain driving weekend.
I know it, I just want to wait for the official speeduino one. They told me it'll be in stock at the end of this week. I just like their box better. Not that it'll ever be seen.
Supermiata 4-puck sprung clutch kit, crossflow radiator, and coolant reroute are in! Gotta re-align my PPF, but otherwise we are roadworthy again.
Decided to be slightly practical and use the money earmarked for the Speeduino and buy a new top and timing components. My water pump is a bit wobbly, so that all will get done shortly. Now gunning for week of July 4th to install boosty things.
I learned something new yesterday! Threw a CEL for "open/short circuit in AFM," said "lemme hit it with MAF cleaner and see if that helps." Popped the two screws off the black connector, "hmm, this thing looks funky and doesn't want to come out, forget it." Car wouldn't start. Turns out AFM =/= MAF, who knew? Cut the box open and bent things back to touching enough to get it home. Guess I'll be ordering that speeduino sooner than later cause I don't want to waste $70+ on a used AFM when I'm about to go MAP
My "cursed water plug" let go at Autocross last night while idling in grid before my first run. Fortunately it spurted onto the plug wires and ignition coil and shorted them, causing a misfire, or I may not have known until it was too late and damage could have been done. Naturally this happened at 8:58, and parts stores closed at 9, so I pillaged a 14mm bolt from the engine bay and got creative .
Limped it to a friend's place five mins from the event and didn't lose any more coolant. I'm kicking myself on this one. I thought about doing this when I did the clutch but decided to wait and order the OEM part from Mazda (which of course I forgot to do.) My question to you guys is is there any better solution than a standard vacuum plug from Advance or whatever?
I bandaided it with a parts store vacuum plug and will order the OEM part. I also just broke my foot, so driving and working on cars is sadly on hold...
Welp, the thread title is becoming less and less accurate. Recent updates include a water pump and timing belt change, which promptly had to be redone when the water neck sprouted a magical leak upon reassembly, front main seal and cam seals replacement, and top replacement to occur as soon as it stops raining.
Tax return was much fatter than expected, so upon receipt, will be placing a big FAB9 order: Kraken manifold and DP, EFR oil and water lines kit, and AEM boost gauge to match the wideband I picked up. Finally, from SpeedyEFI, their Speeduino PnP kit (ECU, GM IAT with harness and plug to tap into the lovely 90-93 AFM wiring, MAP line, BMW VTPS and adapter). Still working to figure out CAC setup, I want to keep my A/C. Living in the southeast it's pretty essential and I think cooling is going to be well enough sorted that I can run it at cruise comfortably.
First plan would be to get the Speeduino in and start tinkering in tunerstudio so I can comfortably start playing when I get boosty stuff in. That way I have time to finalize CAC setup and plan oil and water lines, etc.
Quick question for anyone who may pop in. Oil lines are pretty self-explanatory, feed from the port on the block, return to tapped fitting in the pan. Water lines, though, I'm a little hazy on. I know there's a port on the block, which is what the FAB9 kit intends you to use, and as I understand it, it doesn't really matter which is feed and which is return, since no matter what it'll be way cooler than the turbo. So can I use the block as the return and the currently plugged hole in the water neck blockoff plate (from the Supermiata reroute) as the feed? I figure higher is better for the feed.
Edit: nevermind, duh, the nipple on the water neck is still there, it's what sprouted the leak I just complained about. Feed from there, return to the other nipple on the block.
Double edit: maybe I'll axe the Fab9 lines, use the CXRacing oil line kit for half the cost, and use coolant hose for the water lines. Sound reasonable?
Or if you don't need the speed (a lot of wrenching to be done in quarantine/shelter-in-place), buy it all directly from kraken and be done with it. Last time I looked into it he offered a kit with all oil/water lines + hardware + full exhaust with the MT-certified magniflow.
You still have a 1.6? I use teflon braided brake line for my oil feed, never had a problem. The adapter for the feed on the driver side is M10x1.5 to 4AN if I remember right? Oil feed should cost like $30. And as a bonus it won't leak like that cheap aluminum ebay horseshit. What kraken might send probably sucks donkey *****, do not use brass...
The water inlet is low pressure return for coolant, you don't source from there but return to it. Anywhere then past the water pump but before the thermostat is a higher pressure area for water you can feed from. If you tap the water neck and the block you won't get any flow. Run from the block port to the little nipple on top of the water pump inlet.
Or if you don't need the speed (a lot of wrenching to be done in quarantine/shelter-in-place), buy it all directly from kraken and be done with it. Last time I looked into it he offered a kit with all oil/water lines + hardware + full exhaust with the MT-certified magniflow.
Unfortunately, he doesn't offer the kit with lines anymore. I missed the boat there. As for exhaust, I think I can get out much cheaper going to an exhaust shop and having them take it from the downpipe out the back with a Vibram resonator.
You still have a 1.6? I use teflon braided brake line for my oil feed, never had a problem. The adapter for the feed on the driver side is M10x1.5 to 4AN if I remember right? Oil feed should cost like $30. And as a bonus it won't leak like that cheap aluminum ebay horseshit. What kraken might send probably sucks donkey *****, do not use brass...
The water inlet is low pressure return for coolant, you don't source from there but return to it. Anywhere then past the water pump but before the thermostat is a higher pressure area for water you can feed from. If you tap the water neck and the block you won't get any flow. Run from the block port to the little nipple on top of the water pump inlet.
Yep, still a 1.6. Unfortunately, though, my apartment complex doesn't have garages, so hopefully the 1.6 will last a couple years until I have a house with a garage for an engine swap.
I like $30 for oil lines a lot better, thanks for the tip.
Great info on water lines, thank you. In from block, out through water neck. The pressure will be high enough to push the water uphill?
Edit: If I understand what you're saying, run as this FM kit does: https://www.flyinmiata.com/hard-line...oil-lines.html
Mild update, new top is on. I hadn't found much of anything on the Rockauto cheapo $140 top, so I was curious to try it. Overall, it seems decently well put together. However, in classic you get what you pay for fashion, it only had a couple of holes pre-made and I had to do the rest (with a soldering iron). This resulted in less than perfect fitment on the car, but it's acceptable for a bit and a huge improvement from my mildew-y, ratty old tan top. I'll put a Robbins on it in a year or two, unless this one gives out sooner. Disassembly was easy enough, putting the new top on the frame was alright, had some hiccups which is to be expected for a first attempt and not having 75% of the holes in it. Putting the top back in the car was a BITCH with a rollbar. Just contorting my arm to get to the nuts close to the B-pillar while hunched over straddling the trans tunnel was a nightmare. Without a rollbar it would have been a breeze. Also took the time to remove the drain tubes and unclog them, hadn't seen what the actual tubes look like, which was interesting.
Looks good overall.
Couple areas where my self-made holes' placement caused rippling
You ever burn your leg with a soldering iron because you're working on a cheap top with only a few pre-made holes on the living room floor and using a soldering iron to burn the holes in the vinyl? And you accidently reposition your leg and set it right on top of the soldering iron? Yeah, me neither, until this weekend. It hurt so bad, and if I accidently touch something to it my entire calf feels like it's on fire and tightening up. That's about as long as my pinky finger. Not recommended.
Still waiting for the tax return to hit, once it does (should be any day) all the big stuff will be ordered. Update to come when parts are in.
Im rocking 2 of the rock auto tops. both are over 1 year old, sitting in the florida sun 24/7 and no issues with fitment or anything.
my last nb top, the actual vinyl was fine, but the glass window got unglued from the fabric. so no more glass windows for me.
Plastic windows FTW, plus much easier to operate up/down, and lighter
Alright... I'm itching. Checking my bank account every ten minutes for that sweet, sweet tax return. While I continue to scour the internet reading threads and trying to learn about my tuning, I'll throw my parts list below in case anyone has some pointers before I start spending money.
Couple notes. (Things with check marks are already ordered, cooling stuff and clutch already installed.)
Intercooler: I'm figuring eBay intercooler for now. If anyone has links to ones they've liked, it would be appreciated. As for mounting, is aluminum flat bar bent by hand sufficient to make brackets? I
don't have access to a welder.
Injectors: I know there are mixed feelings on RX8 injectors, but the ones linked are the ones considered to be legit. I'll swap to flowforce down the road, and I know I can get decent money for the RX8 injectors on the classifieds.
Gauges: Going to put wideband and boost gauge in a pillar pod, water temp in a 3D printed housing below the radio. Before the car sees a track it'll get the Innovate Oil temp plus oil pressure gauge.
Lines: going to make AN lines for oil, heater hose for water.
Boost control: planning to start at WG pressure (8psi for EFR low boost WG) and then adjust WG to 10 once I've played around with tuning at 8. Still targeting 200-ish whp for the sake of the 1.6 driveline.
Hood vents: because cooling.
Exhaust: going to take it to a shop, hand them a vibrant resonator, and tell them to take it out the back.
Intake: going to get the turbo mocked up and then order more stuff from silicone intakes to stick a filter in the back corner by the brake booster for now. I'd like to do a cold side intake down the road.
Intercooler pipe routing: planning to go through the fender as Hornetball did for the hot side, as I want to keep my AC and PS. I think I get the idea for the cold side, but I still need to stick my head under the car and think through it more.
Misc - heater hose and some heat wrap for lines, turbo blanket, maybe wrap the downpipe. Also thinking about ceramic coating the manifold before I install it.
Am I forgetting any componentry here?
So yeah, the thread title is definitely a lie now. But I think it'll pay off having taken more time and done it somewhat more properly.
General plan:
- Order Speeduino from Speedy as soon as it's back in stock, install ECU, IAT, wideband, VTPS ASAP and start working with tunerstudio.
- Once school is over (holy **** I graduate get my diploma mailed to me in 2.5 weeks) I have at least four weeks before I start my job. Naturally that's up in the air now, thanks corona. So I'll have tons of free time to chuck parts at the car and fiddle with tuning, assuming Fab9 opens back up soon. Everything seems pretty straightforward to me installation-wise, I feel like intercooler mounting and piping as well as hood vents installation will be the most challenging.
- Near future would be oil pressure gauge, maybe some random stuff like seats, front splitter, some ducting, maybe an oil cooler. Definitely mountain runs. I also have a speed sensor for the turbo, which I'll have to talk with the speeduino folks and figure out how to integrate that. Electronics scare me, so that board soldering/modification will likely get outsourced. There's a reason I'm studying ME not EE. I don't plan to monitor it live, as I won't be running the turbo anywhere that it's in danger of overspeeding, so unless I come into some money and order the TSG that Full Race sells, I just want to log it for now.
Anyway, I'm super stoked, so thank you all for letting me ramble. It is nice to get this stuff out of my head. This should be a fun build, even if it's a dime a dozen. To be a little cheeky, there is something interesting about this particular 6258 that we will talk more about when it gets up and running, and hopefully I'll be able to provide some interesting comparison data you didn't know you were interested in, though corona may throw that off as well. But I'll need to get everything dialed in and consistent for that to be worth anything.
Im rocking 2 of the rock auto tops. both are over 1 year old, sitting in the florida sun 24/7 and no issues with fitment or anything.
my last nb top, the actual vinyl was fine, but the glass window got unglued from the fabric. so no more glass windows for me.
Plastic windows FTW, plus much easier to operate up/down, and lighter
That's awesome to hear! This one will sit outside in the TN sun all year, so glad to hear it passes the FL test. And I got the plastic window, so sounds like I'm good there lol. I really do think if I did it again it would come out even better. But I do think I'd go with a Robbins next time to save some headache.
02-22-2019, 09:56 AM
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