I did a test braze last night on some scrap 2.5" tubing. Came out really well. Used a MAPP gas torch and HTS 2000 rods. I found applying heat in the circled area worked best. Based upon these results, I think I'll use the brazing method too. Not nearly the PITA that I remembered it being.



Last time around, I lightly bead blasted the pipes and then used gloss black VHT high temperature enamel. Held up extremely well (couldn't chip the paint no matter what I did). Planning to do the same this time, although I may have to find a larger blasting cabinet.

 

Is that the same rod one would use to repair a radiator? As in seal a pin hole in a tube in the core.

Edit: answered my own question, it is! I can only find the stuff in packs of at least 10 sticks iirc, for too much money. Where did you get it, how much?

 

That looks perfect. I've used alumiweld from HF for AC lines and radiator repair. Don't know the difference between it and HTS, but it's

 

I got the HTS 2000 rods off E-bay. I've had them lying around for years and use them here and there.

Alumiweld rods from HF are similar if you have one of those near you.

 

With thanks to TurboTim, I present the hotside routing mocked up. It uses a single 45 and a single 90 with one slip joint. 2" tubing. The fender hole is 2.5" and will be finished with some paint and edge molding. I made the section in the engine compartment removable for maintenance. A big 45 silicone elbow at the turbo and a silicone joiner at the fender should provide plenty of slack for engine movement. Without further ado, pics:

 

I originally looked at that as a route on my car and dismissed it. Too soon apparently.

 

Oh my god, I'm going to have to copy this routing. Thanks for sharing

 

My muse (done in 2.5"):

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...e2/#post203544

 

Thanks for the step-by-step (photos saved). Are u doing the same on the cold side?

 

My cold side is here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...9/#post1251966

Basically, I'm doing the Mazdaspeed Miata routing (adapted to an NA) for both sides. Hot side in 2" and cold side in 2.5". I considered going through the fender on the cold side too, but it looked like the angle to get into the throttle body would be too severe. TurboTim went through the fender on the cold side, but he also built himself a custom intake manifold . . . so . . . .

 

<p></p><p>Can I has copy of template? Maybe you could even scan it?</p>

 

I sent them to G already. G?

 

<p>@EO2K?</p>

 

Sorry, I've been prepping for Vegas and then in Vegas for the majority of the last 2 weeks. I just got back last night, zero progress

 

Back from vacation. Big family trip with lots of cat fights.

Anyway, resumed evening piddling. Working on the pipes. The aluminum brazing method is working well. Here's some pics of the hotside.







Added a little curly-Q to the turbo outlet pipe to make room for the existing cowl induction CAI.







This will be the perfect setup for back-to-back dyno data to fan the fires of this discussion: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...oed-car-83408/

 

<p>I think you need a tig welder.</p>

 

Lend me yours.

 

<p>Come pick me up in a fighter jet and I'll weld it all for you.</p><p>Realtalk: Is there any chance at all you can get me a ride in a fighter jet at some point in my life?</p>

 

Intake looks awesome Rick. I look forward to back-back dyno.

Edit- Hey! I think I asked for jet ride first......

 

<p>Realtalk: What is the chance I actually would get to fly one.</p>