Chiburbian's 01' Lots of potential, no follow-through build
#381
I hate to be that guy. I don't know your situation and it's none of my business other then the fact I've sort of been there before from what you've described. But if she's had 2 failed marriages in the past what makes you think you might not be number 3? It's one of those things where you've been longing for so long you might be caught up in the rush of it all to realize. So before you go selling and parting out the miata, make sure that you're sure.
Anyways, if you do decide to part, dibs on your turbo/manifold etc. LOL
Anyways, if you do decide to part, dibs on your turbo/manifold etc. LOL
#384
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In regards to the plans for the car - she doesn't want me to sell. She is looking forward to driving it, but sadly it's being a ******** with idle issues and I think I lost a cam seal because I woke up to a puddle of oil under the car this morning. I will be pulling the valve cover tomorrow after work to do an investigation because I have cam seals in my office that I was too lazy to put in when I did the timing belt. Joke's on me right?
So, basically the plan is to try and get us in the same state in the next year or so, and get us together as much as possible via air travel etc. I had promised her I would be with her on her birthday (late July) which was originally going to be me picking her up and heading to Miatas at the Gap and returning her Sunday night, but with the way the car has been I might cut my losses, see if I can cancel my hotel (doubtful) and instead find the cheapest tickets I can get to go see her.
One admission... I have been using credit cards to "Get that last part I need to FINISH" and stuff and it has added up. I can't afford to leave my job and move to Georgia (where she is) in my current situation because I can't imagine getting paid what I do or get a job that pays me similar. So, if it comes to it - the car goes. It's not perfect, but it has a ton of money invested in it and it would be a great 90% car for someone if I do sell/part out. Basically as I see it, it is a built motor/rods away from 350hp in a very solid package.
On a positive note (aside from the awesome relationship stuff) in order to clean all the oil off of the front of the motor I will likely be pulling my nose off the car so I can take better pictures of the ducting!
Oh, and I have decided not to post a pic just yet. I have my reasons...
#385
Ah I see... Well mybad for misinterpreting then.
If you need a hand let me know. I might have some people over soon for beers while I bolt on the new turbo and such. If the cars mobile maybe bring it over and we turn it into a tech day. Probably gonna be a bit still since these next 2 weekends are jam packed.
If you need a hand let me know. I might have some people over soon for beers while I bolt on the new turbo and such. If the cars mobile maybe bring it over and we turn it into a tech day. Probably gonna be a bit still since these next 2 weekends are jam packed.
#387
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I am confused. I cannot find the source of the leak.
I checked the cam seals and the front main and both are dry. It appears ALL of the leakage was forward of the timing cover. I had oil residue on the sway bar, the catch can (but catch can is completely dry inside), the bottom of the radiator, and the bottom of the radiator.
I can't find any concentration of oil on or around any part of any oil supply line, the oil return line from turbo, or anything. I am perplexed. It was bad enough to cause me to lose nearly ALL of my oil. The oil level is below the empty line on the dip stick!
Are there any bolts on the side of the motor that go into an oil galley perhaps?
I checked the cam seals and the front main and both are dry. It appears ALL of the leakage was forward of the timing cover. I had oil residue on the sway bar, the catch can (but catch can is completely dry inside), the bottom of the radiator, and the bottom of the radiator.
I can't find any concentration of oil on or around any part of any oil supply line, the oil return line from turbo, or anything. I am perplexed. It was bad enough to cause me to lose nearly ALL of my oil. The oil level is below the empty line on the dip stick!
Are there any bolts on the side of the motor that go into an oil galley perhaps?
#389
Oil pump bolts to front of block. It could leak where it bolts to the block, there is an O-ring seal there where it delivers the oil to the block.
Intake side of the block you have the oil filter and the factory oil pressure sending unit. Are these areas clean/dry?
I had an O-ring failure on my remote oil filter housing, and it pumped oil EVERYWHERE on that side of the motor, radiator to firewall. Quite a mess.....
Intake side of the block you have the oil filter and the factory oil pressure sending unit. Are these areas clean/dry?
I had an O-ring failure on my remote oil filter housing, and it pumped oil EVERYWHERE on that side of the motor, radiator to firewall. Quite a mess.....
#390
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If it were oil pump bolts where would it be seeping? Through the bolt holes?
I am beginning to suspect my oil supply line even though I doubt it. It is braided and I notice some places where the braiding has been worn though. However, I don't see any gouges in the rubber underneath. I am going to put it all back together tomorrow morning but leave the under tray off while I burp the coolant. I may pick up some UV dye and a light and stay under the car while it is running.
I REALLY hope it's not the front of the oil pan, however I can't imagine the amount of oil being something slow and steady. Whatever it was happened relatively fast because one day I had a clean garage and the next I had a spot and low oil.
Either way, I am due for an oil change so...
I am beginning to suspect my oil supply line even though I doubt it. It is braided and I notice some places where the braiding has been worn though. However, I don't see any gouges in the rubber underneath. I am going to put it all back together tomorrow morning but leave the under tray off while I burp the coolant. I may pick up some UV dye and a light and stay under the car while it is running.
I REALLY hope it's not the front of the oil pan, however I can't imagine the amount of oil being something slow and steady. Whatever it was happened relatively fast because one day I had a clean garage and the next I had a spot and low oil.
Either way, I am due for an oil change so...
#392
Depends where the pump leaks. If the O-ring failed, it would all spray back into the oil pan, so long as the gasket (RTV) around the pump was sealed well. If that RTV was bad, then oil could seap out around the pump. Possibly through a bolt hole, but I kinda doubt it, more likely just around the perimeter of the pump.
Front of the oil pan leaking should be obvious if it's that, just look! iF it's all dirty, clean the area and then start it up and look.
Front of the oil pan leaking should be obvious if it's that, just look! iF it's all dirty, clean the area and then start it up and look.
#395
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Hmm. "breakout block" seems to be nice and dry. Where the oil seems to be is on the braided part of the line on the bottom of the block if anything. But then, pretty much the entire bottom of the block was dripping.
I am going to pick up the UV dye and put it together and see what happens.
I am going to pick up the UV dye and put it together and see what happens.
#396
Hmm. "breakout block" seems to be nice and dry. Where the oil seems to be is on the braided part of the line on the bottom of the block if anything. But then, pretty much the entire bottom of the block was dripping.
I am going to pick up the UV dye and put it together and see what happens.
I am going to pick up the UV dye and put it together and see what happens.
#397
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I found my problem. My oil feed line was cut into by the teeth on my timing wheel.
BEGI sells their braided line (with elbows and tee's) for $65 plus shipping. I got the cut one cloned by a local hydraulic supply place for $30 plus gas.
I did accidentally put the timing wheel on backwards AGAIN so I have to pull it apart to fix that but otherwise everything is ok. Need to burp the coolant and stuff and put it together but otherwise I am 99% sure I found my problem.
BEGI sells their braided line (with elbows and tee's) for $65 plus shipping. I got the cut one cloned by a local hydraulic supply place for $30 plus gas.
I did accidentally put the timing wheel on backwards AGAIN so I have to pull it apart to fix that but otherwise everything is ok. Need to burp the coolant and stuff and put it together but otherwise I am 99% sure I found my problem.
Last edited by Chiburbian; 06-30-2015 at 10:24 PM.