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Old 11-03-2013, 06:18 PM   #61
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cranking angle, CAS setting, etc, all are to be adjusted once it's idling on 4 cylinders. I wouldn't bother chasing those kinds of issues until then.

Try swapping coil plugs to make sure you can transfer the problem from 1&3 to 2&4.

What's your "codebase and outputs function" menu look like under "basic settings"?
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:10 PM   #62
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*Update: I'm now getting spark on all 4. But 2/4 sparks bright white at first but subsequent sparks dim to like a yellow. 1/3 sparks are consistently bright white.

curly, check out the screenshot for basic setup, i looked around in all the menu's and can't seem to find your codebase and outputs function menu?

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Old 11-03-2013, 09:36 PM   #63
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Well **** you and your MS2.

No idea but if you're getting any spark from the other coils, it wasn't the far fetched setting I was thinking.
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Old 11-03-2013, 10:19 PM   #64
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Haha yeah I realized after searching through manuals that you were referring to ms1 menu. Thanks for the help though, appreciate it.

Anyway, stupid noob mistake #1. Engine ground harness to body on rear driver side wasn't hooked up. It almost started up after I attached it but it was during cranking with like 40% throttle.

Still at a lose but painfully a little step closer.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:56 AM   #65
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Will try to get some logs tomorrow after work, have a 2nd person cranking so I can actually confirm and set base timing also.

Just a thought but is there a chance I could be having starting issues because it's basically like 5*C outside already? Tonight overnight temps are basically in the -ves. I can also post cranking & priming PW curves though I'm not so sure at this moment how I should adjust.
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:32 AM   #66
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Ok so got it up and running. Hilarious story ahead and I'll never forgive myself for this one but basically at the end, I find out my coolant and oil feeds are swapped and I guess I'll have to measure and see just how much coolant drained back into the pan. Still draining.



So for all the other details:
- Checked for spark again and it was still weird to see the spark dim after 1 or more events
- CAS timing at cold I could only max out and get ~6* advanced but will re-check once warmed up
- IAT cal seemed to be off even after I used a couple of settings but coolant temp made sense
- I can get cranking rpms ~240
- Engine basically needs ~70-80% TP input to get it started and keep it going
- It dies otherwise and even after adjusting skunk2 TB idle screw and even opening up the stop more, it couldn't hold idle
- During some idling, picked up on a coolant leak from the turbo drain!? Then I looked back at the block and realized feeds were swapped! LOL FUUUUuuu
- Pretty sure it happened when I redid the 2 lines and didn't re-check that...SMH. Time to look for oil sales and start flushing unless you guys know of a good bang for the buck additive to pick up too?
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:30 AM   #67
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- will flush out and add some diesel fuel, pray to god bearings are ok, and get back to dial in enrichments.

- stay tuned. will get video eventually once this is sorted out but have to travel for work for a bit so i'll plan to report back in early dec
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:34 AM   #68
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Holy crap dude. Hopefully didn't mess anything up too much.

Way to not give up though.
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:19 PM   #69
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This would be a good time to change the diameter and/or fitting type/sex on the oil and coolant lines so you will never, ever do something like that again.
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:16 PM   #70
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color code them.

makes sense when a black fitting is on a red fitting.
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:48 AM   #71
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Situation contained for now after 6 oil changes. Still not 100% but I have hopes it'll come out eventually. Going to pull the valve cover after my trip and manually clean out all the baffles.

In hindsight, I'm with hornetball, should've fail safe'd the fittings by using a male and female on the block. Anyway, colour for now and I'm sure this experience is enough for it not to happen again.

Tweaked prime and crank pw's and it starts up much better now btw. Was running too rich.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:54 AM   #72
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What was the issue with the spark intensity after the first spark event?

Sending u a pm on facebooks.
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Old 11-08-2013, 12:07 AM   #73
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Stumbled on this randomly. Awesome build! Where are you now, Ottawa? And what are you doing for etesting?
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:59 AM   #74
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Hes on your side of the province.

PS, nice to see your still alive. Still have the Miata?
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:46 AM   #75
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Yeah, but it hasn't been touched all year. I moved earlier this year and it has been sitting since. I was trying to sell it, but I think I may just get back into it.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:51 PM   #76
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Don't sell it! Keep at it. Oh and yeah I haven't forgot about that inconel wire. Will have to get back to you over the winter. I'm still in Waterloo btw.

Matt, I never looked into the spark difference (at least not yet). I wasn't 100% sure about ground consistency also so I moved on for now and got it started. If I have an ignition problem I'll keep it in mind but there's bigger fish to fry right now...
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:52 PM   #77
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Oh and for etesting...I got the sticker renewed this summer so I have 2 more years on it. So I guess Jul '15 is my deadline to figure something out for that lol. Maybe it'll be on a trailer at that point. We'll see.
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:39 AM   #78
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Started her up again. So yeah not really the first start but the beginning to a long road ahead all winter...

Definitely not running right still. Realized my grounds are janky. Then I started reading about analog grounds and now decided to pull apart and delete/redo parts of the main engine harness so I can directly ground sensors to the MS.

Will continue on in a couple of weeks with some more flushes and getting the idle right. But for now here's a little (weak) video:

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Old 11-14-2013, 10:40 AM   #79
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DUDE, that oil/coolant swap hurts me inside. Glad to see it running (kinda) for now, hopefully with no knocking anytime soon.
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Old 06-06-2015, 02:19 AM   #80
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Hey Ryan its Sinisa from Guelph, came by last year for the door sills. Just came across this thread and thought it looked familiar. Any chance you still have the waste gate actuator from your turbo. I need a new one.
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