Well due to the shops around here asking ridiculous amounts to install my 3.6 ring and pinion - I tackled it myself, i must say I'm pretty positive i was very successful. I felt the backlash by feel before i took it apart and I took my sweet *** time taking the diff apart, cleaning it and marking the adjusters on the side with whiteout.

Then i put it back together exactly how it was. and dropped it back in my car

I'll be honest - I bought a Dial Indicator and Magnetic Base and didn't even use it. The only thing i actually measured was the pinion spacer, which oddly enough - all the spacers i had measured the same size, i think it was something like 47.88mm, I was very careful to not crush it further while putting it back together.






I should be able to start the car sometime this week after i can update the tune with all the changes I've made. Still need to research that part.

 

Did you reuse the pinion crush washer? And measure backlash?

 

Did you even look at the pattern?

 

Yes I did

Nope

 

Good way to kill a pinion bearing. Don't reuse pinion crush washers, you're pinion bearing preload is wrong now.

Also you should always run a pattern and measure backlash on a new ring and pinion. Its not like swapping in a new carrier, the ring and pinion need to be properly setup.

 

I'm pretty sure I am not the first to reuse the pinion crush washer, I took the time to properly set it up exactly how it was. If i have to take it back out and fix it, i really don't mind.

I was going to order the solid pinion spacer from weir performance but they don't have online ordering and they didn't reply to my calls.

I had 3 pinions all with the same size crush washers.

( the one i exploded ) i took that diff apart first to get an idea for the job and how it works.

(the second) the 3.6 that i bought.

(the third) and the original pinion that came in the T2 differential i purchased.

I'm willing to bet i won't have to pull it back out

 

That's not how it works. The crush washer is used to set preload on the bearing. If you put it back how you found it it won't have enough preload. You can reuse them (but you shouldn't) if you measure preload (with an inch lb torque wrench) but you can't just stick it in without measuring.

You can ruin an entire diff by messing this up, and a gear set.

 

I understand, thanks for the info.

It's a risk I'm willing to take, I'll let you know how it pans out and you can laugh later

 

Alright seems odd to skip an $11 part that can ruin a $400 gear set.

 

 

Buy some lipstick.

 

please explain

I updated my injector settings, dwell settings and spark mode over to 99-05 and the car started right up, I took it around the block without boost and everything seemed in order

Going to have vlad help me out again with the tune, then I'll get it dyno'd somewhere.

 

Yellow lipstick in this case, but you can use whatever your favorite color is.

 

Okay.. I'm at the point of removing my VVT head now and going back to NA8 .. I have no idea what's going on but this sounds terrible.

 

****, didnt take me long at all- drained my oil and found a oil leak at my turbo drain. Then i found my ATI trigger wheel is loose - thats most likely the sound In that video. Pretty sure i used loctite on that.. not looking forward to pulling it off, so happy i found what was wrong though - i was thinking it was the head.

 

That sounds like your diff assploded

 

Savage.

 

Please don't keep beating on the car until I revise your tune for the new setup. It's completely un-tuned and you're gonna hurt it (if you haven't already)

 

AF, im pretty stupid ill admit

Nah, diff is going strong - I did notice that my passenger side pads seem to be sticking a bit nad are making some noise on rotation

I did one pull, not even full boost - had to let off cause spinning - this happened after i checked timing, its on stands once again no worries lol

 

Maybe i hurt something..

Put it back together and hello..

guess I'm probably going to be taking **** apart once again.. This is becoming draining.