Man that stinks.

 

Unfortunately, I can't remember if I checked mine by starting the engine or just cranking it. I think it was cranking because I don't recall having a sense of urgency to shut the car off. And yes the oil was "squirting" from the 3AN feed line. This is oil flow at idle with 3AN oil feed:

edit: found this:
I think it's a buick v6, relevant nonetheless. Unfortunately.

 

I replaced it all...



.

At this point I'm thinking i tore it apart for no reason, maybe other than some general maintenance - my piston had a bit of wear, but i don't believe it was seized anymore

Im pretty sure this is normal oil pressure,

now thinking its a wiring issue or my gauge / sender - I've already added some dielectric grease during this attempt and it didn't do anything.

All i can think of at this point is to get an oil pressure test kit and go from there, unless someone can tell me im not on track

 

Picked up engine oil pressure test kit from harbor racing item #62621

Less then 5 seconds of cranking showed results of 20+ psi on the oil feed side of my dying battery, I'd say that's pretty decent. After i tried reconnecting my sender after sanding the connecting surfaces a bit, no difference. Tune day is tomorrow.. I am not ready..

I've boost leak tested everything accordingly before but i am not confident running / handing my car over to the tuner until its near perfect so the tune day will most likely be delayed a day or more - depends what availability will be like.

Plan at the moment is to pick up the set of gauges at harbor freight racing for only 17$ which includes a water temp / bat / mechanical oil pressure. Might try pepboys too.

 

When I did the gauge/sender swap on my car it took awhile before it settled in and started reporting accurately. I also got the issue with it reporting 0 oil pressure even though there was pressure. Also it would jump around sometimes while driving. After a few hundred miles all those issues went away and now it works like it should.

 

Interesting, i would love to know what causes this, because i was experiencing those same symptoms you explained but wasn't able to find anything credible on what the issue is. My best guess is the sender gunked up with something

 

So close... Yet so far.

I installed the mechanical gauge from harbor after i did a quick boost leak test and blew the pvc cap at the cold side right off, it sounded like a gun shot, good thing it only smacked into my hood and not my face.

I also removed the old BOV since i can use EFR, installed a new fuel filter and tried moving the car for the first time once i got it off the stands. I pretty much stalled in place. the front brakes are seized, i was able to break them loose after my second attempt at moving, but i just moved it right back into the garage.

i had the worlds worst lifter tick, which actually did subside after a warm up I also noticed i have no Turn signals, tach, or ,temp gauge.. which is most likely directly linked to my oil pressure issues. Also was leaking a little coolant from the turbo banjo bolt, but i just snugged it up, so that should be fine too now.






Hoping my issues are the meter fuse or like what happened in deliverator build thread - under the dash plugs on the passenger side of the car (above the blower)

Also need to rebuild front calipers / get an alignment, my right wheel is pointed more to the right after i installed new end links / tie rods.

 

It was the meter fuse... Time to press the undo button on the mechanic gauge and go back to the stock.

ITT: colipto jumps to the worst conclusions first

 

This is not the first, second, or even third time I have seen a meter fuse blown and causing the owner to **** their pants when they start up a new motor.

 

Please tell me those are proper FI clamps on the fuel filter. Please?

Also, holy ****! Look at that fuel filter!

 

Nope, not FI Clamps, i figured it was better then the non existant clamps that weren't there, plus i didnt know any better at the time

Replaced my front driver side caliper, the sliding pins and piston were pretty worn, and i couldn't say no to a lifetime warranty on brake calipers.



Took the car out for a spin twice to verify if there's anymore leaks. So far so good it seems. There's only a little bit of banging down near my midpipe, pretty sure that needs to be shortened to straighten that out.

I'm thinking i may attempt tuning myself at this point, since all the local tuners are busy till next month.

 

catching up on this thread/build. I'm really glad you replaced the oil plump valve parts because just a couple months ago a guy I tuned spun a bearing from a valve that decided it didn't want to do it's job anymore

 

Ouch, I would hate if that happened to me, I've already got one blown motor under my belt, i dont want any others.

Thread update, Vlad is going to be doing my tuning! Not something i want to attempt alone.

I noticed my knock sensor is on the very top cold side mount, it appears the correct position for it is one more down, towards the front from where it currently is. I first realized this on an earlier photo in this build thread.

Pic showing in further detail.




I'll address this very shortly, Can't wait to start tuning with Vlad, I'm hoping for some decent numbers through virtual dyno

 

As for the knock sensor, why isn't yours in the stock location under the IM? or am I missing something?

 

I have a 96 NA miata - it doesn't come stock with a knock sensor like NB's do.

I had gsd a local shop install the knock module into my brain built ms3x. I think the FM knock sensor mount was the most appropriate solution for the Bosch knock sensor for an NA so that's what i went with - but i think i put it in the wrong bolt hole it seems so it probably needs to be adjusted a bit

 

Gotcha. But does the earlier BP not have provisions to mount in the same spot?
I'm just curious



I remember when I installed the protege/kia block onto my 00 everything carried over, including the knock sensor

 

It does. I have a 94 block with it mounted there

 

It does indeed, I've confused it for my oil feed port before... :/

 

I need to figure out, this god damn noise. Pretty sure its coming from my EFR? Took off my intake and it looks fine.. really hoping someone can chime in and tell me the noises im hearing are normal. Have been working on the tune with Vlad and wow i am never going back to any of the tuners i was with after all the feedback i received. My tune was 90% ****.

2/4 I picked up..

Will be going on advanti 15x9 greys, idc at this point.

Got an alignment today aswell

 

sound occurs during decel/vac mostly, if im in boost it doesn't happen