I think the cage makes the car look even more bad ass. Even though I don't plan on doing competition, that cage makes me want to.

hard tonneau
 

We're chipping away at some of the other parts for the car, and two that people keep asking about are roll hoop covers and the passenger tonneau hard cover. The tonneau is really made for the guy who is going to set this car up as a solo speedster. With the tonneau, single screen and single roll hoop, the car will have very, very good aerodynamics.

Since we've shortened the hood and extended the cabin behind the seats by hand, these measurements aren't in any CAD files. In order to make the tonneau we're using new and old tech. First, a styrofoam buck has been cnc machined in the exact shape of the car. We can then cut this shape down to the shape of the tonneau and work with it from there, or make a female of the shape, and then a male part, and then make a mold from that male part.

Even with technology, these parts are all very labor intensive and the thousands of dollars in tooling usually ends up in the dumpster at the end.

Yep, that's sexy.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...atfish_004-jpg

And for rain all you would need is a F-16ish plastic bubble that you snap on over yourself with 360 visibility!

OK that would probably look stupid, but it would be sweet.

I like that idea.

new stuff
 

We're about to open a mold for that custom rear view mirror next, and a full-width plexi screen should be ready to fit next week.

new diffuser, and trubo parts coming
 

Okay, I've been on this forum long enough. I guess it's time to actually TURBO the Catfish. I went back and forth as to whether I should swap the 1.6 for a 1.8, build up the 1.8 prior to the turbo, etc. BUT, I'm working mule #1...the car that started with an $800 donor Miata. It's great fun with the stock 1.6 now, and will be even more fun with twice the horsepower. We'll make the next one a beast...

While we wait for Flyin' Miata to deliver our package o' fun, I put some new aluminum strakes on the diffuser. They cut right through the wind. And cheese. And bologna. And assorted woodland critters that wander in our path.

Nice work as usual...! Props!

Finally the monster has awakened. :friday:

Sooo, even with a 1.6 we're probably talking between 7:1 and 8:1 horsepower to weight ratio. That's better than a 2014 Cayman S (9:1) or 911 Carrera. ;)

Eh go for the 1.8 if you want to build it. Search except for the 1 or 2 members that turboed a 1.6 and defend it, everyone else will confirm building a 1.8 is money better spent.

A 300whp isnt hard to achieve from a built motor.

The cat fish will fly.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399520382

GOOD LORD WHAT IS THAT?! :rofl:

This is Catfish #1....the one that's been to two SEMA shows and started with an $800 NA donor. The next car will have a built 1.8, but this one is supposed to show what's possible even with the teeniest engine. No, this is it. I need to stop tweaking on this car and move on to the next car.

pimped out
 

The Catfish has been pimped out to a high end car and home audio show in Newport Beach this weekend. Check out T.H.E. Show Newport Beach May 31 - June 2, 2013 Entrance for more information.

While it means I won't be wrenching on the car this weekend, I did start working on the turbo setup. The Flyin' Miata cast manifold was ceramic coated in titanium silver and the inconel studs were installed. I then added the Churbo and clocked the snail so it pointed the right way.

Since the car has a water bypass setup it means that I'll need to make some custom water lines for the turbo. The oil should be reasonably easy. There's plenty of room for the IC, so hopefully the install will be nice and smooth. Now if I can only find the time.

So, when are you bringing Catfish body and frame kits to the market?

On sale now. We just made frame 10, which is our first all TIG welded frame. Flyin' Miata is almost done with their car.

Catfish Turbo Install
 

After all this time posting on MT I finally went out and put a turbo in the Catfish. :)

I took the time to ceramic coat the FM exhaust log and to clean up the stock 1.6 intake manifold, and even clean up the wiring a bit.

It's a 2560 chinacharger with an exhaust that unfortunately didn't fit the FM outlet. Custom it is.

The turbo water lines are incorporated into the existing DIY water bypass. It worked out well because the Kia water inlet has a threaded boss that allows us to grab the cool water from the radiator. The hot stuff is dumped back into the mix at the back of the engine so the turbo coolant never goes through the block. The oil coolant routing is standard.

The IC fits really well and went on without having to relocate the radiator. There's a bit of clean-up of sharp edges and potential items that may rub, but it's all small stuff.

The only big thing left is the mid-pipe from the turbo. Once that's done we're in business.

I have nothing constructive to say other then your last post made me so happy. I can't wait to see video's of this thing with a turbo!

I hate to trifle but it appears the hot water is coming from the back of the head to the turbo and then that hotter water goes into the inlet of the mixing manifold and then into the water pump and engine. That is unless you are running an external aftermarket water pump and a reverse flow cooling system with a gutted stock water pump (like Miata2Fast).

Thats the direction it travels when the car is running. It should, in theory, travel the other way when the car is hot and off. I did mine that way, because it was easy.

Trifle, trifle! This is my first turbo install and I'm learning as I go. Of course it helps to start with the FM kit, but we're always trying to fit the solutions to the car.

The water coolant lines aren't yet bolted down as we are waiting for a couple of adapters, but the intention is to push cold water up to the turbo and then dump it out after the block. It seemed the cleanest and most efficient way, especially since we'd already done the coolant reroute.

The car is at RPM now (Richard's Performance Muffler) for a custom dump pipe, which is the last main piece of the puzzle.

I was just pointing out that the water pump on the lower front of the engine is the inlet and not the outlet. The water goes into the block there and out at the back of the head.

:btu:

No I get it...front to back. We're splitting off some of the incoming cool water for the turbo. Theoretically the coolest water will be available right after the radiator and before entering the block.

Our turbo exit line meets up with the rest of the hot water after it's exited the block in the back, so hot turbo water doesn't have to go through the block before first going through the radiator.

The fact that you posted this makes me terrified that you've actually made a driving tube frame car.

Yup, you'd be reversing the flow you think you're going, feeding the hottest water to your turbo. Think water pump, then think pressure differential.
Now if you have an external pump before the coolant enters the block, and feed coolant to churbo right after it, then cool.
Edit to add: my track car was plumbed the exact way you're describing, but I used my heater core in-line before the turbo acting as a radiator. Yes it got hot in the cab... but I never had fogging issues

Where is the thermostat?

Correct but theres no water pressure where you connected your inlet. You want that inlet to be on the other side of the water pump.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...625_162357-jpg

If I see correctly you have the best source for cool water right next to your oil feed (MSM/94/GTX block).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...lokasvarzt-jpg
(Water feed is the one without the red circle :))

Tap in there and you have the best routing for your turbo water lines. Feed from the block and return after the thermostat to the KIA cover/upper hose.

The thermostat is at the back of the block.

Here's my thinking: it's a closed system. The pump keeps the water flowing in a circular motion, even to the point where the water is seeing pressure at all points.

If you have a closed pipe with two identical (low) pressure points at each end, does the water flow through the pipe?

Good point. I was just picturing "flow".

Just change the pickup for the block port and your system is golden...

No, if you were seeing equal pressure at all points, the water would not be moving. The pressure before the pump will be lower than the pressure after the pump, otherwise the pump wouldn't be working.

I made this car in collaboration with some of the best builders in their field. I listened to what they had to say and then incorporated their knowledge into the design, which is what I'm trying to do here. Most posts here have been helpful...

Same here, with the heater core supply being before the thermostat of course.

Cordy is just having a brain fart, it happens to us all. 'tis friday, afterall.

Thanks Tim. Happy to have given you your 100th prop. :)

One thing that's been pounded into me with this build is that "failure" equals progress, if you know how to react to it. It's the application of the scientific method where you're supposed to test a theory, have it fail, learn from your mistakes, and then adjust the theory with the lessons you've learned. That to me is a huge part of the satisfaction of the build process.

But getting to watch some members of the peanut gallery uphold the reputation of MT.net, not so much. :blah:

Hey, what would we be without our reputation? :D

Looking forward to seeing this project completed, and seeing the car in person in September.

you clearly have not seen this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs...d-75269/page5/

lol, the only thing I contribute to MT is gayness

Not true.

You also disassembled the best looking car on the forum creating much sadness.

So true... :facepalm:

I just saw that gay thread and wow...just, wow. The worst part about owning a Miata is now NOT having to tell dad you're gay, but that you might get a package from Genesplicer.

"uphold the reputation of MT.net"

We has trubo
 

Oaky here's the deal; I spoke with "He with the knowledge of Miata" about my turbo coolant lines, and he essentially said that I have a labeling problem. Call "in" "out" and "out" "in" and there's no problem. I pretty much agreed, except for what Bruce alluded to: is the water pick-up before or after the thermostat?

With the current setup at the front and back of the block, the water wouldn't really flow until the thermostat opened up, even though I've opened up the weep holes in the thermostat a bit. So I decided that since Mazda was kind enough to leave an oil and water galley open for use, we'd use it. So standard setup, no problems.

Richard's Performance Muffler in Oceanside fabricated the dump-pipe beautifully. The TIG welds are top quality--really nice--and really improved over the last pipe. It's made from 2.5" stainless, and makes a 40 degree and 80 degree bend to get to the muffler. Heat shielding is still needed, but the basics are there.

That wideband wont live there for long. Way too hot. You want it somewhere by the tranny.

I saw it, and thought, "Naw, they know what they're doing."

If you fit a large copper heatsink then it'll live fine in that location - assuming it's a road car.

On track it'll still overheat and cook.

What are you going to use for insulation between the downpipe and the brake system?

I agree with tripple88a, the wideband should probably be 18 to 36 inches away from the turbine according to most manufacturers. But shielding it should help it to last as a street car. If you plan to track it or otherwise drive it in anger you will not have good life out of it.

You will be much happier with the water system with the way you have it now. That is the best possible arrangement. :bigtu:

I was told the same thing. It's even in the instructions that we overlooked.

I listen....I just don't read (instructions)
 

The changes happened quickly, and that's mainly due to my partners in crime, Bent Motorsports. These guys not only weld and fabricate, they cnc and play with SolidWorks. Their specialty is actually suspension fabrication and setup. Go figure. Our little business park has some really talented people. :)

The wideband sensor was moved about 36" away from the turbo and situated so that moisture doesn't pool when it's not on.

A heat shield was made for the brake bits, and I'm sure we'll probably be adding more as we move along. It's a good (looking) start for now. Hell, I should call it a "sweet shield". :)

The MSPNP2 now reads for 700cc injectors and will be on the dyno very soon.

getting ready for dyno day
 

I drove the Catfish over to Delicous Tuning this afternoon in anticipation of tomorrow's dyno session. The car had a high idle and there was a definite stumble/surge when gas was applied, but overall everything seemed to be working.

A FM boost gauge barely made it past zero on the way over as I had no intention of testing the turbo prior to the dyno. Hopefully I'll have a dyno sheet and a little video to show tomorrow, and not oil and case particles littering the floor.

better than I expected
 

I spent the entire day in Escondido today, dynoing the Catfish. It was hot, muggy and the car seemed to do well anyway. The dyno is owned by Mike at Infamous Performance in Escondido and the tuner is William Knose of "Delicious Tuning".

Bill wasn't that familiar with the MSPNP software, but seemed to pick it up fairly quick. He also spends most of his time tuning Subies, GTRs and Porsches. He also tuned Ken Block's car for Gymkhana 1 & 2, so he knows what he's doing.

The dyno is a Mustang eddy current 4wd unit, and it works well. Mike said that they've done "back to back" dynos with the DSport Dynojet dyno, and the Dynojet reads about 17-20% higher. That said, these are some pretty impressive numbers for a 22 year old 1.6 on pump gas.

The number and AF ratios all lined up on the dyno, but on a little test run on the street with Martin Wilson (Monster Miata), Martin said he heard a little detonation. NOT GOOD. Bill backed off the timing and a second street drive produced no knock. The dyno is so damn loud with the fans that it just wasn't noticeable.

Okay experts, what do you think?

Delicious Tuning
 

Am I reading correctly that at 14 psi it made 190 whp and 170 wtq?

Boost kinda crept up there....

It's a Mustang eddy current dyno, so those numbers are low compared to dynojet.

edit...the tune has been backed off from these numbers. They were getting a bit out of my "comfort zone".

Yeah an extra 20% would put it at 230whp on a dynojet which is pretty impressive for a 1.6. And good spool for a churbo.

not bad at all for a low reading mustang dyno.
I bet its a hoot, and I bet it woulda put down like 90 when it was n/a

Fixed.

Nice numbers for churbo B6

Nope. Dynojets are all the same numbers, normal mustangs are ~5-10% lower than a dynojet. This mustang is even low for a mustang at 17-20% lower. If you want to compare between different locations you have to use a dynojet nothing else is a real number.

There is a difference between consistency and accuracy.