When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've just had bad luck with remans from auto parts stores. We just replaced an alternator in my buddy's civic with a Carquest reman, and it failed 5 days later. Anecdotal obviously but from what I've read it's not terribly uncommon. As long as you can monitor it I think you'll be fine.
I took my last one (on my old Celica) to a local auto electric shop and they rebuilt it. It's still ticking, that was 5+ years ago.
My autozone rebuilt unit did that, exactly. One month old. ******* scary. 16 volts, battery the size of a watermellon. Got acid all over me. How it didn't get in my eyes I don't know. Carma? I donate a lot to local schools.
So the regulators are junky off the bat or fail slowly over time. Just curious. My last battery had swollen, but it was fine after replacing. Same alternator. Was thinking of just replacing soonish, but was also just going to pick up a remanned locally.
Got my LS coil bracket from getting powdercoated, and stopped by Psybers house this afternoon to drop some tools off and pick up some parts. Picked up a new wire harness for the coils which is pre-loomed, only down side is that ideally the coils with this bracket would have the connections on the outside of the mounts (opposite of how i have them pictured here) so i figured i would try them out this way, and I think that if i strip the loom off and re do them it should be just fine this way, it makes them a bit more complicated to get the connector on/off, but hopefully I wont be doing that very often. Worst case I just extend the wires and route them out and flip the coils around.
A few weeks ago when we were doing his rear end swap, he was generous enough to give me the old FM dual spal fan w/shroud setup he had, well today he decided to sell his TSE radiator, so I figured WTH, i need a radiator, might as well snag this one for a deal. Unfortunately the dual spal fan setup doesnt fit very well on the TSE radiator so tomorrow I am likely going to just fab up a bracket for a just one of the fans and rock a single since I dont have AC, should be just fine.
Oh, and hopefully Tuesday I will be able to share some legitimate progress if everything goes well
Built my custom single fan shroud today for the TSE radiator, good friend of mine offered his tools and time today to make it possible. Only two things that i need to add would be 3-4 1way flappers to allow air to flow outward, and then some rubber seal on the side lips. Other than that it turned out amazing. We used some rivet nuts as well for the fan to have some nuts to thread into.
With the shroud so close to the radiator fins, wont it make the radiator less effective?
ie. the only air passing through the radiator will be through the size of the hole for the fan, the rest of the radiator's surface area is effectively blocked off because very little air will pass through the fins since those areas are now much higher pressure areas.
Most shrouds tend to sit back further and taper towards the fan mounted at the rear of the shroud.
With the shroud so close to the radiator fins, wont it make the radiator less effective?
ie. the only air passing through the radiator will be through the size of the hole for the fan, the rest of the radiator's surface area is effectively blocked off because very little air will pass through the fins since those areas are now much higher pressure areas.
Most shrouds tend to sit back further and taper towards the fan mounted at the rear of the shroud.
In regards to the distance from the radiator, I mimicked the sizing of the FM shroud that this fan came from, the distance away from this one is literally identical from that of the FM cooling kit pictured below. As I mentioned, I still need to add the small little flappers that allow air to exit the shroud without having to go through the fan port, I also still have to add the small rubber weather stripping to the outside edges. Once its all said and done, it will virtually mimic the FM shroud, only with a singular fan vs dual fans.
Worst case scenario, it doesn't perform ideally and I take it off and build another one. Although I believe that this TSE radiator is going to be plenty efficient enough as it is.
FM Shroud/ fans for reference-
Last edited by Downmented; Sep 12, 2016 at 06:17 AM.
Sweet shroud. Regarding the flappers, that you referred to as "small". I would make them as big as you can fit. FM's set-up has two giant fan holes in it, making it matter less that the shroud is so shallow. Essentially I believe you want the flappers to occupy the same area that second fan hole would.
I will be using approx 4 of the shroud vents that Psyber posted, on the FM shroud it has squares cut out behind the flapper, i will likely just use equivalent sized circular holes since those will be infinitely easier to cut into the shroud than attempting to cut little squares into it. Ultimately the sole purpose for these is at speed when the air is passing through the radiator these allow the air to pass straight through rather than funneling at the fan, so finding a sweet spot for the amount of them is key.
Another topic, given my MSM trans outputs speed digitally vs the NA trans analog output, and I will be running a Racepak iq3 dash, I am kind of curious how all of it will play together, so I am looking for a bit of input.
MSM trans> AEM EMS4 > Racepak IQ3 is how i see the signal going. I know there is a required module/ connector I will need to lync the EMS4 and IQ3. Previously (or in stock format) there was that analog cable that went from the trans directly too the dash cluster, now how will i go about connecting my trans to my EMS4 at this point? My EMS4 harness was for 94-95 model.
Do you already have the Racepak? If you do an IQ3s, it already has the CAN module, so you just hook up CAN high and low to the AEM. Does the AEM take in a VR signal for speed?
If you bypass the ECU, I'm not sure what it takes to get the speedo working. I ran VR+ to speedometer input, and VR- to ground at Racepak, and it didn't work. I didn't try beyond that and just used a JBPerf Dual VR conditioner through Megasquirt.
The speedo outputs a VR signal. No idea what the AEM has for VR inputs. With the megasquirt I used a VR conditioner to convert the VR signal into a 0-5V square wave that the digital input on the megasquirt could read easily.
Well, after waiting twice as long as initially quoted, my V8R subframe and front upper control arms finally arrived yesterday, zerk fittings getting drilled/ tapped for today to install the SadFab sleeves. Got the subframe and manual steering rack all bolted up last night, also got some DEI heat shielding up in the trans tunnel. Hopefully the motor/ trans will be going back in tonight, things are finally starting to move forward.
0
