looks fine to me

/shameless plug for 90° outlet housing setup

 

it's excellent for over the rad setups.

 

Quoted for truth. Makes the whole setup a lot cleaner and easier. I've got a couple "Miata days" scheduled for the near future, so hopefully I can get this ball rolling. Now that the weather is clearing up and the days are a bit longer it makes forward progress achievable.

Fingers crossed

 

​​​​​​.... But you have a garage.

 

It still gets cold in there, crappy weather also kills my motivation and desire to work on the car lol

 

Well, I was super stoked going into the garage today, started making great progress testing all the sensors and wiring and everything. It was all checking out. So we hooked up a starter button to crank the motor over and initially the starter wouldnt do anything. So we decided to pull the starter and test it on the bench. Go figure it worked just fine... So put the starter back in and bingo, started cranking over. Amazing right? nope, because as im holding the button I look down at the ATI damper and its doing the worm as its rotating, looking like a soggy spaghetti noodle...

RAGE FACE!!!!!

So we pull off the radiator and intercooler then run to the store and grab a balancer puller and come back and yank it off, initially not taking into consideration what else had to come off so we basically pull the entire front of the motor off, belt and everything. Come to find out that previously when I struggled to get the ATI damper on it was due primarily to us destroying the woodruff key in the process which managed to cause the balancer to wobble like crazy. End result, I need a new woodruff key. Easy fix, just a lot of regression today. Top half of the manifold is off so we can weld a MAP sensor on.

Another issue, and this is everyones chance to either say "i told you so" or provide a solution- So with me having the NB crank sensor as well as NB1 cam sensor with a 36-2 trigger wheel, the Haltech software wont allow for me to use the stock cam pickup as the home signal. I know that this issue has been resolved with MS users, but it appears that I either cannot do it with Haltech, or Haltech did not wish to assist me with this. Im leaning towards a combo of the two. So if anyone is using NB signals, with a 36-2 trigger wheel, and a Haltech elite EMS please show me the way! And no, the answer is not switch to MS lol. It was suggested to shave off some of the pickup signals from the cam gear, which is likely my alternate option short of just NOT using the cam sensor.

All in all, forward movement was made, these were issues I would of needed to sort out at some point. Anyway, heres pics of the good/ bad/ ugly .

 

Can you just use a 4-1 crank wheel for the ATI?

 

Im sure i COULD, but I will get better resolution with the 36-2 and no cam signal than i would with the 4-1 and cam signal.

 

But you wont get sequential ignition/injection with out the cam signal. Which is more important than the resolution.

 

Assuming I were to just grind two of the triggers off of the intake cam gear, which two would I remove?
would I remove the two that are grouped together and leave the one that's solo as the only remaining trigger?

​​​​

 

Also, does anyone happen to have the coolant sensor calibration data?

 

You can probably find it in some really old posts in the MS section.

 

Which sensor? Delphi?

 

I suppose that would of been a critical piece of information in my inquiry. Its an OEM sensor I got from Mazda.

 

 

Haltech elite 1500 + 36-2 FM trigger wheel/ crank sensor + cam sensor is a success! I have made a bit of decent progress since the last update.

-Woodruff key replaced and confirmed ATI damper is good to go, no more wobble.
-I drilled/ welded a bung into the manifold plenum for a brass AEM 3.5bar map sensor.
-I decided to go with a GM coolant temp sensor given that the calibration is already a cal option in the software
-Intake cam gear modified to read single pickup to work with FM 36-2 trigger wheel. Confirmed full sync in Haltech software between cam/ crank signal.
-Ultimately the issue is confirming that the cam pickup does not read at the same time that the missing teeth pass the crank sensor.
- We knew that a single pickup was needed on the cam gear so we had to determine which pickups needed to be ground off.
-To do this we rotated the crank by hand to confirm where the different pickups were in the rotation cycle, we then determined that it would be best to remove the cam gear, and rotate the gear 1/3 rotation clockwise on the camshaft itself.
- Once we confirmed there was no overlap between our desired single pickup and the missing teeth on the trigger wheel, we removed the gear again and ground off the two pickups that were located together.
- Once everything was back together we verified full signal sync in the haltech software and confirmed that both the cam signal and crank were reading correctly!
- We then set base timing and verified everything using a timing light.
I will do a more detailed thread on how to sort all of this out for anyone of interest in the future, granted basically all of you run megasquirt anyway and this is all old news for you guys lol

Making kickass progress and im starting to feel great about all of this!

And pictures-

 

AEM 30-2131-50 sensor? I think that only has the accuracy/response to be used for logging and instrumentation, not MAP input to an ECU for fueling.

Did you get the M12x1.5 Delphi sensor that threads into the stock CLT bung?

 

Does haltech not have a built in MAP sensor?

 

Yes and yes.

Everything I read showed very little legitimate difference in the brass sensor and the SS sensor. Luckily if it becomes an issue it is a super easy swap. And yes, I chose to use the Delphi sensor, -https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/398

 

It does but the difference in response time between it and a MAP sensor directly in the manifold is night and day. The onboard sensor "works" but thats about it.