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Dyno tune time officially scheduled for the 18th and 19th of this month, and in an effort to have the car ready I have a few things I need to work through. One of them being I need to get my fuel level gauge (on my IC7 digital dash) operational. It could be a multitude of things wrong, but I am going to be installing a Haltech fuel level sender signal conditioner and ideally a new fuel level sensor (PN- NA75-60-960A). With that said I am struggling to find a new one for sale as it appears Mazda has retired that part ( I am noticing a trend here lately where Mazda has been retiring tons of NA/NB parts) So if anyone has any insight on where I can purchase on new of OEM or OEM like quality I would greatly appreciate it.
Does the float float in gas? Does it read the correct resistances when empty and full? Fairly easy to check before purchasing more parts.
Yes thankfully it does float, however last time we tested it (been a while at this point) it didnt appear to be reading correctly. And at the time that was the least of my concerns so it sort of fell off my radar. I have to remove the rollbar to access the fuel basket so I would like to have the necessary parts on hand if I am going through the trouble of replacing it.
After a bit of tinkering yesterday, I was able to finally get my fuel level gauge working on my IC7 dash. I had to use Haltech's signal conditioner to convert the signal and then calibrate the voltages in the ECU. Now I am just waiting on some hose to arrive so I can finish the new catch can setup before the dyno next week. Going to be doing a 93 and flex fuel tune while staying relatively conservative (under 400whp ideally). After my Corvette build was plagued with issues I can't mentally tolerating this becoming riddled with issues so hopefully it will stay "reliable" post tune if we keep things on the conservative side. I will keep this updated with the results!
I've had a few folks PM me about the values I used for the fuel level sensor table within the Haltech software, so here they are. While you can use these as a baseline, there is a formal process you should use when calibrating this sensor. You should completely drain the tank, and use the voltage value for the sensor with an empty tank, then add 5 gallons and then enter the voltage for that into the table, and then again at 10 gallons and then finally at full to achieve your specific calibration. Keep in mind these values are only applicable if you are utilizing the Haltech sensor signal conditioner.
Last edited by Downmented; Apr 14, 2022 at 07:55 AM.
Well over the weekend I did a final pre dyno inspection, got the new Radium dual catch can setup installed, as well as my coolant overflow tank thats been sitting on the shelf for years. The lines for the catch can setup are temporary to get me through the dyno this week. Afterwards I will be tapping the valve cover and using some -10an lines. Fingers crossed all goes well, im far more nervous for this to go on the dyno than any of my previous projects.
Well, it finally happened, the car is officially tuned and it didn't blow up! Very impressed with the numbers it made while staying relatively conservative! 25psi on E85 (yes the chart says 27 psi, the map sensor on the dyno isn't calibrated correctly, ECU reported 25psi for this run) Dyno video linked
Thank you! I cannot wait to get some seat time with it and feel it out.
Now that this is out of the way, it's time to shift focus to other items I have been putting off. Looking for recommendations for suitable oil cooler options, I also need the sandwich adapter.
I have decided to go with the FM oil cooler kit, my question is, can the factory oil pressure sender location be used for an aftermarket pressure/ temp combo sensor?
Well with the nicer weather I have been spending a lot more time actually driving the Miata. And with that I have had a few issues pop up. One of which being that after some extended driving, when I would let off the throttle the TB plate was sticking open. Thankfully (I guess) this was a relatively common problem with the Junk2 TBs and there was a noted fix here that required me to drill a new hole to extend the return spring. Knocked that out and not only did it fix that issue, but a few other drivability issues I had as well, so thats a huge win.
Another issue I am hoping someone here may have some insight on where to start is, after extended driving in moderate heat, if I shut the car off, and attempt to restart it shortly after it acts as if the battery is dead, and it slow cranks and doesnt want to start back up. Eventually after a few attempts it fires right back up. Im not sure if I potentially need to either upgrade my ground wires or add a few more, or what is even causing this. Open to some suggestions!
Unrelated photo of the car on display at the Baltimore auto show a few weeks ago where I actually proposed to my (now) fiance! We met at this show a few years prior.
Congrats on spending more time actually driving the Miata
and more importantly to getting engaged!
Can't help you on your starting problem. Best guess is that it's the starter, although the wiring could also be the cause.
Maybe monitor the battery voltage while cranking. A higher voltage means it's wiring, while a lower voltage means battery or starter.
Well after years of procrastination, I was finally able to get the hood back on the car. It hadnt fit due to the way I routed the intercooler pipes over the radiator, but thankfully after some cutting away at the underside of the hood and massaging the pipes a bit, we were able to get it back on without having to completely redo the piping. Also ran a completely new 0/1g power wire from back to front and I believe it has resolved my hot re start issue so that is refreshing.
I have also decided to get the car ready for some track days at summit point this year, not aiming for anything in particular, mainly just want to get out there and feel the car out on track and get a feel for it. Ive never done any track time like that, only straight line stuff, so it should be a nice, steep learning curve. A few things I know I need to address prior to getting on track are building a heat shield for my brake master cyl since its so close to the downpipe, get the new brackets on for the front sway bar to go back on, swap my rear wheel hubs/ bearings (and possibly get new fronts as well). If anyone has any other suggestions for things to check out, address prior to track time, Im all ears!
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