Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
07-23-2010, 07:14 PM
#104
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What I wanted to do a while ago was have the wheels copper coated and then let them oxidize to a green patina. Copper coating is a part of some place's chroming process but everyplace I spoke to about it wanted like $200/wheel.
Lemme see if I can find the baltimore bead blaster...
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07-23-2010, 07:17 PM
#105
That might be pretty badass
What I wanted to do a while ago was have the wheels copper coated and then let them oxidize to a green patina. Copper coating is a part of some place's chroming process but everyplace I spoke to about it wanted like $200/wheel.
Lemme see if I can find the baltimore bead blaster...
What I wanted to do a while ago was have the wheels copper coated and then let them oxidize to a green patina. Copper coating is a part of some place's chroming process but everyplace I spoke to about it wanted like $200/wheel.
Lemme see if I can find the baltimore bead blaster...
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08-19-2010, 06:27 PM
#107
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MY ******* CAR IS BACK ON THE ROAD.
So the **** died and wouldn't start because the intake and exhaust cam had both jumped like 4 teeth. The cause was probably a bolt that sheared off the timing mark plate which then punched a ******* hole in my gates belt.
Sean Mr2JZMX5 pulled my valve cover and timing belt cover and found this fuckage. The shop replaced the timing belt free of charge which apparently is a major pain in the *** and took them over an hour to just pull the ATI damper. I don't know if any of you DIY ATI damper removals but I might need some tips 70K miles down the road.
So I'm back to breaking in my engine. I think I'm at like, 300 miles now. Gonna go for a drive now and put another 100 on. Let's see if I get back home.
So the **** died and wouldn't start because the intake and exhaust cam had both jumped like 4 teeth. The cause was probably a bolt that sheared off the timing mark plate which then punched a ******* hole in my gates belt.
Sean Mr2JZMX5 pulled my valve cover and timing belt cover and found this fuckage. The shop replaced the timing belt free of charge which apparently is a major pain in the *** and took them over an hour to just pull the ATI damper. I don't know if any of you DIY ATI damper removals but I might need some tips 70K miles down the road.
So I'm back to breaking in my engine. I think I'm at like, 300 miles now. Gonna go for a drive now and put another 100 on. Let's see if I get back home.
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08-30-2010, 11:03 PM
#111
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So the other day I was regrounding my water temperature sensor and I saw that my ATI damper was ******* oscillating about a 1/4". I drove it and then looked again and it is not oscillating anymore.
This means the ****** was not pressed on properly. The installer (shop) must not have used lube because they were like OMG it took hours to press it on. The damper needs lube to slide all the way down the shaft properly. They will have to fix it when I go back to have my valve clearances checked in two weeks.
The motor now has about 800 miles on it. Mostly wussy highway driving, stuff under 6k rpm, 5-10psi boost, mostly tried to stay under 5 psi. No WOTing in boost.
I have a dyno tune appointment with Phil @ Element Tuning in three weeks so I am trying to get the car ready for that. Need to do a few things first including:
WI install-
This install intimidates me. I still haven't even figured out how to get to my cigarette lighter power (don't know how to remove the driver side footwell liner). I'm not very confident about wiring **** up and I don't want this crap to **** up. I am strongly considering individual runner WI but how the **** do I remove the lower intake manifold while it is in the car? Do I have to jack up the car and get at the bolts from underneath or can i do everything from the wheel well? Urgh.
MBC install-
I have this little ****** for a MBC.
I figured why should I pay $5 for a perfectly functional home depot MBC when I can pay $200? Because the $200 boost controller comes with this $4 switch! 
It's used to toggle between the two boost settings. I will put a "nitrous" or better yet a "NOS" sticker on it. My plan is to have low boost be like 18 psi and high boost be like 899999++++ psi. I am running a hydramist and my base timing map will be pretty conservative and my high WI map will be off the ******* hook and high boost ready. I won't run high boost without WI. Hydramist will automatically toggle timing, fuel, AFR targets and a few other maps as well as the turbosmart solenoid if it runs out of water so it will revert to low boost.
Tap my IM for a big fat vacuum hose fitting for my lazy Tial BOV. Right now it chuffs a lot and hopefully a big vacuum source 12 inches away will help with that.
Install Oil temp sensor
I think I will just drill out and tap my drain pan plug. I don't know where else to put it. Ideally I would like to put it up near where the turbo is just because it's easy to get to. But, I don't have a ******* fitting to do so. I ordered one from Begi but the thing didn't fit my sensor. ****.
Change oil and look for sparkles of death in oil
I think I will filter my oil through a coffee filter (before it touches my nasty drain pan) so I can see if I have any horrible stuff in my oil. I would cut open the filter but I don't have the tools for that. Maybe a sledgehammer would work?
This means the ****** was not pressed on properly. The installer (shop) must not have used lube because they were like OMG it took hours to press it on. The damper needs lube to slide all the way down the shaft properly. They will have to fix it when I go back to have my valve clearances checked in two weeks.
The motor now has about 800 miles on it. Mostly wussy highway driving, stuff under 6k rpm, 5-10psi boost, mostly tried to stay under 5 psi. No WOTing in boost.
I have a dyno tune appointment with Phil @ Element Tuning in three weeks so I am trying to get the car ready for that. Need to do a few things first including:
WI install-
This install intimidates me. I still haven't even figured out how to get to my cigarette lighter power (don't know how to remove the driver side footwell liner). I'm not very confident about wiring **** up and I don't want this crap to **** up. I am strongly considering individual runner WI but how the **** do I remove the lower intake manifold while it is in the car? Do I have to jack up the car and get at the bolts from underneath or can i do everything from the wheel well? Urgh.
MBC install-
I have this little ****** for a MBC.
I figured why should I pay $5 for a perfectly functional home depot MBC when I can pay $200? Because the $200 boost controller comes with this $4 switch! It's used to toggle between the two boost settings. I will put a "nitrous" or better yet a "NOS" sticker on it. My plan is to have low boost be like 18 psi and high boost be like 899999++++ psi. I am running a hydramist and my base timing map will be pretty conservative and my high WI map will be off the ******* hook and high boost ready. I won't run high boost without WI. Hydramist will automatically toggle timing, fuel, AFR targets and a few other maps as well as the turbosmart solenoid if it runs out of water so it will revert to low boost.Tap my IM for a big fat vacuum hose fitting for my lazy Tial BOV. Right now it chuffs a lot and hopefully a big vacuum source 12 inches away will help with that.
Install Oil temp sensor
I think I will just drill out and tap my drain pan plug. I don't know where else to put it. Ideally I would like to put it up near where the turbo is just because it's easy to get to. But, I don't have a ******* fitting to do so. I ordered one from Begi but the thing didn't fit my sensor. ****.
Change oil and look for sparkles of death in oil
I think I will filter my oil through a coffee filter (before it touches my nasty drain pan) so I can see if I have any horrible stuff in my oil. I would cut open the filter but I don't have the tools for that. Maybe a sledgehammer would work?
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08-30-2010, 11:19 PM
#112
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Tonight I did some ****. My old EGT thermocouples got fucked during my engine pull and reinstall. I got replacement senders from spruce aircraft. I pulled the old nonfunctional senders out (which rusted like ******* mad) and put in the new ones. I have two. Here is one.
Amazing. As you can see, I keep my turbo and wastegate in sparkly brand-new-like condition. I think I have the most beat up tial gate and compressor in the world :(
And after about a minute or two of burning off factory coatings or something, it worked!
Hallelujiahfatawjihad! EGT again!
That is about as stylish as a dual analog EGT gauge gets. For you ******s that think you are supposed to tune for optimum EGTs, HP and knock be damned, there is this awesome piece by Koso.
For real tuning though, this should be pretty darn useful for getting my WI dialed in.
Amazing. As you can see, I keep my turbo and wastegate in sparkly brand-new-like condition. I think I have the most beat up tial gate and compressor in the world :(
And after about a minute or two of burning off factory coatings or something, it worked!
Hallelujiahfatawjihad! EGT again!
That is about as stylish as a dual analog EGT gauge gets. For you ******s that think you are supposed to tune for optimum EGTs, HP and knock be damned, there is this awesome piece by Koso.
For real tuning though, this should be pretty darn useful for getting my WI dialed in.
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09-21-2010, 02:47 PM
#113
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Allright updatey time
Car is in the shop right now having a rx7 clutch pack diff, a rx7 housing, mazdacomp diff mounts, and a 3.6 r&p and the proper speedo gear installed. Also having them install frame rail braces. I would have installed the frame rail braces but I don't have any rhino ramps. And I don't have any place to store rhino ramps. I could jack the car up on the pinch welds but those ******* are so damn mangled already.
I have happy dreams about the new differential. My old torsen must have been a special feller because I used to launch my car shittily over and over and over again with ridiculous CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK wheelhop. It did not die so the newer torsens must be stronger than the old ones. Mind that I did not launch on a strip nor did I launch with drag radials/slicks. Just RS2s and worse. So anyways, this torsen is a beast so if anyone wants it, let me know.
I hope that the clutch pack will not need any adjusting because I really don't want to pull the ****** and rebuild it. Ugh. That is just a pile of unhappiness so let's not think about it.
If I break an axle, and I don't plan to since I will ***** launch. Top end mph ftw! Well if I break an axle then I will just cry.
I really miss driving my car. The weather is so nice now- spring and fall are my favorite times of year to drive.
I have my dyno tune session in 3 weeks. Hopefully I will have a good readout to post then.
Before that though, I still have to install my WI.
I am going to go with individual runner WI. I have a hollowed out plenum and after seeing enough pics of SQUARE shaped plenums on 9 second drag cars I am not worried much about airflow. I think I will do my awesome infrared temperature checking on the runners to make sure I am not super lean, also pull plugs. I am interested to see how good I can get my hp/torque curves with stock cams and VVT. I do have biggie valves and ported head but we will see if cams matter that much.
Car is in the shop right now having a rx7 clutch pack diff, a rx7 housing, mazdacomp diff mounts, and a 3.6 r&p and the proper speedo gear installed. Also having them install frame rail braces. I would have installed the frame rail braces but I don't have any rhino ramps. And I don't have any place to store rhino ramps. I could jack the car up on the pinch welds but those ******* are so damn mangled already.
I have happy dreams about the new differential. My old torsen must have been a special feller because I used to launch my car shittily over and over and over again with ridiculous CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK wheelhop. It did not die so the newer torsens must be stronger than the old ones. Mind that I did not launch on a strip nor did I launch with drag radials/slicks. Just RS2s and worse. So anyways, this torsen is a beast so if anyone wants it, let me know.
I hope that the clutch pack will not need any adjusting because I really don't want to pull the ****** and rebuild it. Ugh. That is just a pile of unhappiness so let's not think about it.
If I break an axle, and I don't plan to since I will ***** launch. Top end mph ftw! Well if I break an axle then I will just cry.
I really miss driving my car. The weather is so nice now- spring and fall are my favorite times of year to drive.
I have my dyno tune session in 3 weeks. Hopefully I will have a good readout to post then.
Before that though, I still have to install my WI.
I am going to go with individual runner WI. I have a hollowed out plenum and after seeing enough pics of SQUARE shaped plenums on 9 second drag cars I am not worried much about airflow. I think I will do my awesome infrared temperature checking on the runners to make sure I am not super lean, also pull plugs. I am interested to see how good I can get my hp/torque curves with stock cams and VVT. I do have biggie valves and ported head but we will see if cams matter that much.
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10-24-2010, 11:29 AM
#116
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So the shop was putting in my clutch diff when I got a call-
They were like you already have a clutch diff in here. I was like huh?? Did the PO change the stock torsen out?
So I went to the shop and this is what I saw:
It took me some googling to figure it out (hint solomiata.com) and it is actually a stock tochigi-fuji clutch diff. The only stock clutch diff for any model year. Only '03s used this diff. And my car is an 03.
So that was what I thought was an unbreakable torsen. I do not road race or autocross so I don't know it's capabilities in that regard but for launching and for drifting, it was great. I am having it opened up and checked for damage though, and also the clutch plates checked for thickness because of this:
Broke a pinion tooth. The ring was pretty much ok, nicked up but still usable. Despite the broken ring tooth, it still worked though. I wonder how long it was broken for? Because of that, I sent off my 3.6 gears to Liberty's Gears: http://www.libertysgears.com/ That's where eliminator had his gears done. I got a shotpeen, polish, and cryotreat for $104. Pretty damn cheap IMO. I considered mikronyting (walnut shells) and another treatment but I really want strength and well, strength. The non cryo/shotpeen treatments seemed superfluous. I am having the gears shipped to me instead of the shop just so I can take a picture of them and take a look at the treatment results.
They were like you already have a clutch diff in here. I was like huh?? Did the PO change the stock torsen out?
So I went to the shop and this is what I saw:
It took me some googling to figure it out (hint solomiata.com) and it is actually a stock tochigi-fuji clutch diff. The only stock clutch diff for any model year. Only '03s used this diff. And my car is an 03.
So that was what I thought was an unbreakable torsen. I do not road race or autocross so I don't know it's capabilities in that regard but for launching and for drifting, it was great. I am having it opened up and checked for damage though, and also the clutch plates checked for thickness because of this:
Broke a pinion tooth. The ring was pretty much ok, nicked up but still usable. Despite the broken ring tooth, it still worked though. I wonder how long it was broken for? Because of that, I sent off my 3.6 gears to Liberty's Gears: http://www.libertysgears.com/ That's where eliminator had his gears done. I got a shotpeen, polish, and cryotreat for $104. Pretty damn cheap IMO. I considered mikronyting (walnut shells) and another treatment but I really want strength and well, strength. The non cryo/shotpeen treatments seemed superfluous. I am having the gears shipped to me instead of the shop just so I can take a picture of them and take a look at the treatment results.
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10-24-2010, 11:33 AM
#117
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Oh and btw I had to get two new PPFs. I cracked the one in my car, I'm guessing from wheel hop, or being absurd. This is the worst picture ever but you can see the crack.
Then I got a replacement from a local board member but unfortunately, it was twisted since the donor car was in a wreck.
Then I got a replacement from a local board member but unfortunately, it was twisted since the donor car was in a wreck.
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10-26-2010, 09:55 PM
#118
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I got my gears back from Liberty's. Here they are in all their glory. I got frostburn from holding them for the pics!
The pinion looks like a frikken mace.
The pinion looks like a frikken mace.
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10-30-2010, 12:41 AM
#119
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I finally drove my car home tonight. No drama. The 3.6 gears are nice. They make the car feel more "relaxed". I definitely wouldn't want them if I was N/A but with the medium size turbo I have it should be great.
On the to do list for the weekend:
Install hydramist- everything but the nozzles
Wire up knocklite
Redo my hotside IC piping and couplers
Do a street tune for 15psi- gonna try to use the hydra VE autotune
On the to do list for the weekend:
Install hydramist- everything but the nozzles
Wire up knocklite
Redo my hotside IC piping and couplers
Do a street tune for 15psi- gonna try to use the hydra VE autotune
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10-31-2010, 04:45 PM
#120
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I finally drove my car home tonight. No drama. The 3.6 gears are nice. They make the car feel more "relaxed". I definitely wouldn't want them if I was N/A but with the medium size turbo I have it should be great.
On the to do list for the weekend:
Install hydramist- everything but the nozzles
Wire up knocklite
Redo my hotside IC piping and couplers
Do a street tune for 15psi- gonna try to use the hydra VE autotune
On the to do list for the weekend:
Install hydramist- everything but the nozzles
Wire up knocklite
Redo my hotside IC piping and couplers
Do a street tune for 15psi- gonna try to use the hydra VE autotune
Completed:
Redid couplers for hotside IC piping
Cleaned and oiled K&N filter
Put on a slip-join exhaust clamp
Re-calibrated my Hydra O2 sensor
Tested my knock sensor and decided the problem is at the ECU not the sensor
Going to go start working on the hydramist and will try to figure out where to mount a catch can.
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