fail baboon goin for redemption in '012 - will just end up failing again
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From: onion city,ca
fuzeblock came today. it is tiny. seems to weigh same as the horn (fz-1= .27lb horn=.38lb)
strategized with a friend today on the rear subframe. ended up punting on the idea of modifying subframe in favor of making the ppf work.
i would like to take an informal survey. would anybody be interested in purchasing a kit to adapt a sr20 to miata? kit would consist of tranny <-> ppf adapter, motor mounts and oil pan. for sake of argument lets assume cost is < $1000.
strategized with a friend today on the rear subframe. ended up punting on the idea of modifying subframe in favor of making the ppf work.
i would like to take an informal survey. would anybody be interested in purchasing a kit to adapt a sr20 to miata? kit would consist of tranny <-> ppf adapter, motor mounts and oil pan. for sake of argument lets assume cost is < $1000.
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there was a kit available at some time before, cost was over 3k. I think there would be some interest in a kit. I know you will get "interest" at CR, but who will actually really pay? not sure.
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From: onion city,ca
woot woot first sale. actually i think ka is ok for 2 out of 3 parts. i'll take a look to make sure the tranny mounts are same (worst case you can swap bellhousings). motor mounts are same. oil pan hmm...
i dunno if the ka can handle all yer boosts. iirc the block cracks @ 425lb/ft at lowish rpms (< 4k).
i dunno if the ka can handle all yer boosts. iirc the block cracks @ 425lb/ft at lowish rpms (< 4k).
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Thread Starter
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From: onion city,ca
Takin' some fail out this weekend boy howdy.
ima put this:
and crawl under the car and tack weld the fitment fixture in the right orientation. From this the final part can be produced.
ima be a happy puppy
ima put this:
and crawl under the car and tack weld the fitment fixture in the right orientation. From this the final part can be produced.
ima be a happy puppy
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Thread Starter
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From: onion city,ca
picked this up today to build my laguna seca exhaust. whatcha all think?
I gotta say, if stock bike take-offs are 10 times better than you can buy for a car, your doing it wrong.
I gotta say, if stock bike take-offs are 10 times better than you can buy for a car, your doing it wrong.
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fuzeblock came today. it is tiny. seems to weigh same as the horn (fz-1= .27lb horn=.38lb)
strategized with a friend today on the rear subframe. ended up punting on the idea of modifying subframe in favor of making the ppf work.
i would like to take an informal survey. would anybody be interested in purchasing a kit to adapt a sr20 to miata? kit would consist of tranny <-> ppf adapter, motor mounts and oil pan. for sake of argument lets assume cost is < $1000.
strategized with a friend today on the rear subframe. ended up punting on the idea of modifying subframe in favor of making the ppf work.
i would like to take an informal survey. would anybody be interested in purchasing a kit to adapt a sr20 to miata? kit would consist of tranny <-> ppf adapter, motor mounts and oil pan. for sake of argument lets assume cost is < $1000.
Loving the thread so far, looking froward to seeing the progress. I get a lot of ideas watching a lot of you guys work.
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Thread Starter
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From: onion city,ca
sure you can have the old turbo. it seems to be in fine condition.
I have a question for yous alls. I have stupid car completely disassembled and i'm looking at '95 rear subframe, 3.9 torsen, 99 axles, 1.6liter rear hubs and uprights. it looks like everything is ok for 350wheel but if i'm going to change anything, now is the time. I saw sav post that he is using a rx7 diff carrier. will the standard 99+ housing be ok for me?
ps: i don't know if i'll be 350 or not. planning on assembling then tuning at 14psi and see what i get.
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If you abuse it, none of that stuff will last long at 350whp. If you can keep from doing many clutch kick drift initiations you should be good with any 1.8L rear end and axles. I don't think any of them are significantly stronger or weaker than any others.
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From: onion city,ca
i plan on being smooth, but it looks like you takes your chances at the end of the day. i guess if it starts getting expensive i'll back off on the power.
picked up these today, now i just need a head to put them into:
picked up these today, now i just need a head to put them into:
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Thread Starter
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From: onion city,ca
cams are 20v's from front drive nissan (primera iirc) which has a cut-n-paste of honda vtec. what kind of sick joke is it that the front drive commuters have all the best s h i t
Why bother?
A stock sr20det head flows 188.3 @ .300 lift. A stock VE head flows 329 @ .300. I'm hoping to get my hands on a newer version of the head (20v) which flows a little bit better than the 329 i think.
Last edited by jasonb; Apr 19, 2012 at 02:43 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: onion city,ca
still dinking with the ppf stuff. got a design for the mount but i'm having trouble figuring out where the front end of the ppf should be. at the current position the ppf is hitting the gas tank. can yous help a brother out and measure your gas tank <-> ppf gap?
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