It was 5252.

-Aaron

 

Why go full retard on the motor but stick with such a small turbo?

 

You're going to need to upgrade your transmission at these power levels too.

Is your diff still a 1.6?

 

The transmission will be just fine. I'll worry about that when it actually goes.

The diff is a 2 way mahura with the mahura ring/pinion in a 1.6 case.

As for the turbo, I have it. And everything associated with making it work including a full exhaust and ETD manifold. It will spool well and it won't choke at my power levels. Sure the intake temps will be hotter, but I'll be running water/meth at high boost so it will be just fine. On the street I won't run it higher than like 10-15PSI without water.

And I like going against the grain.

 

Funny how everyone is all about ID injectors now.

 

They seem like a good product. I may also just get some 560's and throw my adjustable regulator from my FD onto the car... (you know, since it's apex seals are broken... lol)

 

What is your shop quoting you on that engine work?

 

They are. It's just funny because the last time I brought them up one particular member on this forum told me they were overkill and good luck getting them to idle, and now that same member wants a set. Amazing how fast things change, isn't it?

 

bhp is base horse power not brake horsepower. brake horsepower is only slightly shy of wheel horse power. bhp is what the engine will make on an engine dyno with no tranny driveshaft or rear end to spin. brake horsepower is what the car would put out on one of those dynos that you take the wheels off and bolt the dyno onto the hubs. wheel horsepower is the only worthwhile way of measuring it, everything else has variables from car to car.

 

bhp means a lot of things.

 

fail
nothing like doing stupid **** for the sake of being a god damn moron. Adding water injection isn't going to make the compressor map change enough to magically gain efficiency.