I hear all of that but how do you Lear things like:

Warm up curve- I thought this was warm up enrich?
Dead time- found specs on line for id1000, then pat said my settings suck.
Latency

The Mega manual gives a very vague explanation to all of this, that could be applied to anything.

I would really just like to stay with sticking metal together. Clearly computer tech is not my hot spot, or believe me, I would be in a cozy office, not in a freezing / hot shop.

It's l just a foreign language to me.

Warm up curve is warm-up enrich, yes.
Latency, set a fixed advance (like you do to set the base), let's pick 10*, and run up the RPM to 5000, while looking with a timing light. Actual timing should stay at 10*. If it retards, increase latency. When it is set correctly, go to advance table. That's my understanding. I've not done it yet, as I just learned of it.

EDIT: Also, before you tune the VE Table, decide 2 things: What do you want the AFR table to look like; Do you want to "Include AFR in Calculation" (or something like that) or not.

I understand most of this. I had my ms2 up and running well in no time. I don't know what my problem is now.

Wow this sounds kind of pathetic. Don't drink and post on forums.

[QUOTE=18psi;1286929]step 1) write down a list of strategy/approach

I'm serious.

For example, mine use to start kinda like this:
-sync timing
-set up req_fuel
-calibrate tps
-calibrate wb02
-calibrate thermistors
-do idle valve test
-set up idle valve
-start tuning idle and startup


18,

I couldn't agree more. I have done this. I also just received a tune from another member, from a car running similar equipment. my car will not run on it. I am beginning to think that I have problems elsewhere.

Here is the tune that my car will not even start on.



Attachment 156039

Went through all of the fuel, and ignition harnesses. Cleaned up a bit, new plugs. Waiting for tomorrow. We must test.


EDIT: tested today...

So I went through all of the wiring yesterday, nothing too fishy, but i definatley cleaned some stuff up.

wiring is good, continuity throughout- wired as factory, so, 1&4 fire together, then 2&3
new plugs, gaped to .026
set to cop, in the ignition settings

runs poopy.

dry good color on plugs 4&2
wet and white on 1&3

what do you think?

Runs pretty well now, but losing sync at low RPM. Im using this 36-2 wheel.. has anyone else had complications when running it? Adjusting the VR post, seems to have zero effect.

Does anyone have a stock crank timing sprocket that they are willing to part with?

Quick search found this, 11 dollars shipped to your door.

1999 2005 Mazda Miata MX5 Timing Wheel Pulley Plate BP4W 11 408 | eBay

Facepalm. I saw that thing but didn't even read the description. I thought it was an aluminum billet pully.

That one is scratched up a bit in the pic, but I'm sure it will work just fine. They're like 20 something new from the dealer if you'd rather go that route. I have a new 36-1 I bought from mazda a while back, it was like 19 dollars I think. Still have it new in the packaging.

Well I just went into the garage, and found a half a quart of engine oil on the floor. Leaking from some bolt hole on the bellhousing. sweet. These were the only two seals I purchased directly from Mazda. the rear main, and the oil pan gaskets.

With 1/2" vents on the valve cover, how could I possibly have had a rear main failure???? the gawd damn thing hasn't even been on four wheels yet. still on jackstands. for another few months it looks like. I am losing motivation.

If you overdo the oil pan bolts, you can squeeze the rear or front rubber piece out and that would dump oil since the seal basically falls out. If it is coming from the bellhousing and it's 1/2 a quart just from running on jackstands, that would be my guess. I did that once overtightening the bolts and had to pull it all apart, clean a mess of RTV, and redo it.

FWIW whenever I install a seal (cam, crank, rear main, etc) I clean the bore the seal goes into and put a tiny film of RTV in the bore and on the exterior of the seal, then pres them in. Not required to seal it, but it glues them in so they're less likely to pop out from excessive crankcase pressure. I've cracked a piston in half twice, both times blew the dipstick out of it's hole, and never lost a seal. And that's for sure the most crankcase pressure the motor is ever gonna see. And I run stock crankcase vent setup.

I was so careful when I put the pan together. I had read horrible stories about it. I actually re did it three times, because I didn't trust it. I still dont.

How did you torque the bolts? By feel? Torque wrench? What RTV did you use?

What I do is use Grey RTV. Clean all the bolts with a wire wheel to remove old debris, then brake parts clean the bolts and all surfaces. RTV between any two things that touch. Tighten the bolts by hand with a 1/4" ratchet slowly just to pull it down flush. Then in a circular pattern keep tightening each bolt a little bit so I pull it down evenly. I use the torque of my wrist to twist them tight, it's not a lot. Never had this method fail me when using grey RTV. I have had "the right stuff" leak on me before though, but it lasted about 2 months before it failed, and it was a small leak, not gushing out like you're describing.

I did exactly as you just described. Exactly. It even had a month to dry. I did it three times, because the first two were with the FelPro set, Wichita obviously suck. So I knew what to look for and how to prevent it. Then I got all of the Mazda gaskets.I treated this thing like a surgery, because I didn't want to have this happen.
Either way, it failed. Now it's getting pretty cold in Va., and my carport cover is mostly disassembled, because I thought I was done. I don't know what I'm going to do with it.
I just need to get out and do it. I can probably get it out in 4 or 5 hours. But now my confidence is lowwwwww, And it will probably snow any day now.Hopefully when I pull it apart I'll learn something.

Turns out, if I just don't F around, I can get it out and on the floor in like 3.5 hours.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1449445881

Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.

Are you wanting to go bigger? Why are you selling the twin disc if you want more power?

Because I'm would like to save an EFR 6258 frome being a door stop in my friends shop. My 2560 is certainly not brand new, and the EFR is really close to being that. If i had originally purchased a brand new 2560, this probably would even be a subject. I have my own reasons and theory beliefs for wanting a heavy clutch assembly.

Ah, thought you had the twin disc for the power capacity.