Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build
 

So I'm finally putting together my turbo and need some advice...here is what I have so far:

car- Ugly as hell, 1995, 1.8- Long block rebuild in process

Megasquirt 2
GT 2560
ID 1000's
ARTech SGDP to 3" exhaust
Turbo Sport BOV
sprearco IC (forget the size) ill get to that later
FM oil filter relocate
manly rods
Toyota cops
949 twin disc
15x9's
empty bank account

Searching for 225-250 whp. Is this a realistic goal?

Question of the night..Do I need to run a fuel pump/ regulator set up? from the FAQ Archive, It looks like I do not. Shooting for well under 300 hp and on a stand alone.

I have a few beer bottles surrounding me and a tube of skin thickener, so let the flaming begin...:party:

Easily. I made that on a Greddy kit, you'll be there with plenty of headroom.

Edit: No pump or regulator necessary unless you are going e85.

Yes 250 should be no problem.
Heck, even 300 shouldn't be tough depending on what kind of fuel you have available.
For 250, you can get away with stock fpr, and maybe even pump, though the pump will be near the limit IMO.

what manifold you goin with?

we need pics :party:

Awesome.

Virginia, we get 93 at the pump

ARTech side mount.

so i can get away with the stock FPR and a larger pump ehh?

pics soon... Im in the middle of moving into a new place. the neighbors are going love the guy who moves in and immediately tears apart his car.

No regrets here with my Artech side-mount. Still yet to see a dyno but at 10psi it pulls like crazy already. I'll be sure to put some results up after its tuned. I have similar goals to yours ~220hp range. I decided to keep it below 250 because a lot of people say that is the breaking point for the stock bottom end. I'm not ready to rebuild or swap motors again yet haha

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415455686

Building my cops harness now.. Following the sticky, I don't understand where the 10,000uf cap goes. Or better yet, I don't understand the directions. I have a megasquirt so, I do not need the capacitors?
EDIT: So it looks like the capacitors provide the full charge to the coils. Understood. Wouldn't it then be helpful to have a capacitor on each of the 12v leading to the coils and not just 1 on the main 12v source?
on a 1.8 (1995.5) since I have two plugs at the coils, am I going to actually have two separate harnesses, one for 1&4 and another for 2&3 ?

Are you guys just cutting off the connectors, or installing a male plug to go the the factory harness? Anyone have a plug part # ? the one in the write up seems to be just to the cop itself.

1.8 oem connector Coil On Plug & Ignition : Fab9 - Ignition Connector - 4 Pin

perfect, thank you.

Most of the major parts, lots of small ones not pictured. Money well spent I think.[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415677076[/IMG]

Nope, I have the semi mystery 95.5. four pin 'flat"

I do not see it on the website either.

Ok, so i guess the "Denso" type male connector is hard to find.. im going with a gm weather pack retro.

A quick pay-pal query, says that my budget turbo build is at about 5k and counting. Does someone have a free 6 speed lying around? maybe a coolant re route? Ohmy gawd, this is nuts.

I did a budget coolant reroute. GM hose. KIA waterneck. Jackson racing spacer drilled, tapped and machined. < $100

OK, well I'm waiting on the spacer, should be here any day now..This may be the cheapest part of this whole endeavor.

KIA waterneck was less than 20.
Hose < 30.

Cheapest waterneck price I could find: Kia Parts eStore

Thank you sir.

I started my wire harness for my ls2 coils, and have run into some confusion.

going off of the COPS write up, a Toyota coil is wired like:

1. Ground
2. Trigger
3. Tach
4. +12 V

But then the Ls diagram shows:

A- Coil GND
B- Ignition Low Noise Ground
C- Ignition Digital Signal
D- +12 V

could someone please help me understand these Ls coil labels please? Does the diagram for the wire harness (which is written for the Toyota part) also apply to the ls coils?

Thanks,
Ryan

No, not entirely. The LS coils have no tach out pin. They only need three things, a trigger, 12V, and ground.

Tie both A and B together, and wire them as grounds the exact same way you would toyota coils. That extra ground is for misfire detection or something similar a megasquirt can't use. Everything else is the same, wire them in batch as the trigger is the same for LS2/toyota cops. You won't have a tach out, which I think is fine on your car. I believe it's driven off the ECU on 1.8s, and the megasquirt should already be wired and configured to drive your tach.

Great, thanks!

I got the LS2 coils to work yesterday. Fired right up on the old (current) engine. I wanted to make sure I had that all sorted out before I install the new engine.

Back to the fuel... I was messing around with the fuel calculations in the sticky. It looks like with the Walbro 190 hp and the ID 1000's, I should be able to use the stock FPR. Does this sound correct, for about 15 lbs of boost?

I have given up on someofit, Im going for ALLOFIT now.

EDIT: I think I got it. a 1,000cc injector will only be at like 45% duty and require about 60 psi on the rail, @ 15 lbs. boost. Does this look right? Man I suck at math..

[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421290945[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/y...NG/carcoil.jpg[/IMG]

My coil mount. Top picture was before I had fully welded them, I needed a test fit first.

is that a see-through intake? :laugh:

seriously never seen something like that before

Polycarbonate!

Any before I get burned up about it, yes that is also a T tap. Temporary until I was sure I had the right wire.

Years ago, I met a guy at a car meet with a show Hyundai. He cut a section of rad hose and replaced it with a glass cylinder with a frost decal, small red LED under it. You could see the orangy dexcool lit up. Very sweet!

I'm confused though on the poly intake. :dunno:

Glad those coils worked for you!

What's up with that carbon air box, I need something like that. Did it come from ebay?

Stock FPR is fine with MS. Those injectors are big enough for anything you'll need with a wide safety margin, unless I missed corn, but I'd bet they are still plenty big.

I just didn't want to use aluminum or steel for the intake. No reason other than that.

Yes, it's an eBay air filter housing. Super flimsy and cheap plastic ends that break if you over tighten them. It works.

[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422135006[/IMG]
One last look at that 180 mi. engine.

[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422135006[/IMG]

Hit it hard after breakfast this morning. wasn't as easy as i thought it would be. There were a few connectors on the transmission that I couldn't see/ figure out for a few minutes, and one under the intake manifold at the starter solenoid.

Coming along. Have you tried that turbo you bought to the manifold? I did mention you'd possibly need studs, right? I'm thinking so, your 2560 is likely a bit smaller than a 3071 was. You are going to have all the power you want easily with that SGDP/manifold. Its pretty slick. Best of luck.

You did say that, and you are correct. the bolts are just a little too long for my turbo. no big deal. Thank you.

[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422415746[/IMG]

Started installing the Sport brakes today ( look at the difference in caliper size!), only to find out that that they were missing the backing plates for the rear pads and the springs that keep the pads in place on all four calipers. Thanks fellow member, I appreciate that.

For some reason I think sport brakes didn't have those, no idea though.

Well I will feel like a dick if they aren't supposed to have them. I guess I should stop being a instant complainer and go find out.

Does this help?

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...springs-62010/

Ha! I just found that this morning and was about to post that I think I had figured it out. Definitely thanks for the help though.

I have decided to get a set of forged pistons now. My question, 8.6 or 9.0 compression ratio? Suggestions?

For your goals and trubo setup, 9.0 should be fine.

Are you going with Supertech? Wiseco?

Supertech with wiseco rings.

When would the 8.6 be more appropriate?

OK, 9.0 It is.

I chickened out. Im just not sure. Now that my parts pile is getting out of control, so are my power goals. I am now considering the fact that down the road I will want more power. In the 275-325 whp range, is 9.0 still acceptable ? Help me push the buy button. please.

Thanks for all the help guys. The overwhelming responses providing me with the pros and cons of each, has helped me decide to go with the 8.6. I think this puts me in a better position should the boost increase over time. Thanks again.:party::party::party:

the bottom line is you can't really go wrong with 8.6
good choice.

Are you on pump gas or E85? If pump gas then go with 8.6:1 supertechs.

Yes, pump gas. Thanks

I've been a lurker for some time now, and this will be my first post, but i just wanted to comment on your thread.

Long story short, i sold my 5.0 mustang i had been racing to get a miata (consumables are like ... 1/4 the cost), which is nice and cheap, but i miss the power i used to have and have been considering a turbo. Tuning options on the much newer 5.0 are obviously a breeze, and looking at all the miata stuff; stand alones, piggy backs, "band aids" it really all started getting a bit discouraging, despite the fact that i've spent a few years around turbos from my mazdaspeed 3 days.

Just wanted to say your thread is a bit of an encouragement. It really looks like your stuff is coming together well and kind of gives me hope of someday turboing this thing again. Good luck man, and keep it up.

Thank you, I appreciate that.

I must admit though, the fact that this build has gone wayyyy beyond my original plan. It all started as the usual, "I think I can turbo this thing for like 2,500 bucks". Over the course of about two years of saving money, it has spurred into "well if I'm going this far, I might as well not cheap out on this next part". Now it's forged this and billet that. I'll provide a new parts list soon.

[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424055530[/IMG]

I got the engine apart. no real surprises. I did have low compression on one cylinder (no. 2 had 90 psi.) but all I could see was a big chunk of carbon between the 1 & 2 rings. 180,000 mi. and look at that ring gap! less than .008. the bore seems too smooth, pretty heavy glaze.

[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424055530[/IMG]

Then I got the diff swap bug. What else can you do when its 12 deg, outside. Kind of a hassle, laying on the ground.

Note: loosen the diff mounts, to the point where it almost falls off of those long bolts. Then it all tilts forward and slide out.

2560 , ALLOFIT.
forged bottom end
275 whp goal (a bit lofty?)

Am I a total boner if I don't use all ARP hardware?

Yeah, I think I would at least go with the ARP main stud kit.

Ok cool. What about the head bolts, will the stock ones be ok?

A lot of people run the stock ones, but better never hurts. :party::party::party:

lol are you talking to yourself?

I can't seem to get much response, so I just talk to myself now.

what do you mean all arp hardware?
I mean if you can swing the head studs for 120, get em.
rod bolts of course too, but those come with the rods.
the rest is not necessity, but luxury. if you have the green, get, if not, don't.

with e85 your "goal" is definitely possible. and it will make torque everywhere and make you giggle like a school girl

What I meant was main and head studs. I think I will go with just the head stud kit.

No E85, just 93 pump.

it should be possible on 93 too, just gotta be careful with the tune and make sure the setup is really efficient

Ok. I'm not dead set on any hp number in particular. I really just want to make good use of this turbo and remain safe.

So I went to install my original cam, instead of my ex intake. Long story short, my shed developed a roof leak, right on top of my plastic container of engine parts, that had a mystery Crack in the lid. My cam is a rusted bumpy stick now.
My question : what, in your opinion would I be sacrificing by using the exintake cam on this turbo motor? A couple hp on top? Anything?

Purrrrty please.

too early, don't understand question: you have an exintake and wanted to go back to stock? or you are stock and was going to do exhintake?

either way, the difference is really small, and with boost its pointless