Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build
#121
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The dude promised me it was absolutely perfect, when In fact it had "trashy" oil pass through and score all of the journals. I had them all polished out and it sits on a shelf now. Still pretty lame.
#123
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I would drill those threads out and install high-temp M10x1.50 helicoils. bbundy has had good luck with them.
e: here McMaster-Carr
e: here McMaster-Carr
Most of the used parts I have purchased, have had problems that were not disclosed during the sale. No more used parts. None.
Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 05-27-2015 at 09:13 PM.
#124
Can you post a pic of the manifold threads?
That sucks about the used parts. I kinda agree, I try not to buy used stuff unless it's something I can't really buy new (a head, an intake manifold, an engine....) Looks like you're building a street car, if so I'd just buy some 3/8" studs and nuts, wire them together and move on.
That sucks about the used parts. I kinda agree, I try not to buy used stuff unless it's something I can't really buy new (a head, an intake manifold, an engine....) Looks like you're building a street car, if so I'd just buy some 3/8" studs and nuts, wire them together and move on.
#125
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I'm in no position to say what is ok and what isnt. What I do know is that when comparing it to my 180,000 mile head, it looked bad. Like i said, it's all poilseed and good now. It just needs a new home.
#126
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Not necessarily a street car. I was planning on the track mostly. I'll post more of my build soon. I have had some major life changes going on that have slowed progress significantly. And it ain't a baby. Not a human one anyway.
#127
If it helps, I put 2,000 and wayyyy to many hours into a VVT head, and then dropped the head gasket on upside down and idled the motor till it locked up/died. Turns out a VVT head will idle for about 8 minutes with no oil, only Lucas assembly lube before one of the cams welds itself to the head. It messed up one of the cam journals pretty bad.
I spent about 1 hour getting the aluminum off the cam journal (easy) and then about 3 hours knocking down all the high spots off the cam journal. There's a lot of voids in that journal now where oil will be instead of aluminum.
I've run that head to 8,800 and not a lick of trouble from it. It saw 8,400 yesterday. It's fine. I've pulled that cam 3 times now to inspect to see if it's getting worse, it's not, it's ok. So I wouldn't sweat it, a little scoring is ok and "normal" too in my experience.
I spent about 1 hour getting the aluminum off the cam journal (easy) and then about 3 hours knocking down all the high spots off the cam journal. There's a lot of voids in that journal now where oil will be instead of aluminum.
I've run that head to 8,800 and not a lick of trouble from it. It saw 8,400 yesterday. It's fine. I've pulled that cam 3 times now to inspect to see if it's getting worse, it's not, it's ok. So I wouldn't sweat it, a little scoring is ok and "normal" too in my experience.
#133
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They are not ceramic coated threads. The manifold is. The coating will most likely be damaged while welding all of the holes closed, along with the giant hole from when I remove the existing helicoil.
#136
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I have considered this. I have access to a mill, so I can get it all straight. I have plenty of cobalt equipment as well. All of this doesn't make me any less nervous though. I have decided that worst case, I cut the flange off and start over.
#138
I found them pretty easy to put in and I used a probe and a small flat head screw driver. I was expecting them to be more difficult from the word on the forum.
I put the edge of the clip in and held it in place with a probe. then following that same side of the clip with the flat head i went around the edge a little at a time pressing it in till you get to the end and they clip right in.
Admission on my part though is I don't practice it full time but am a 3rd generation locksmith and am quite experienced with small clips and lock bits.
The wrist pin way sounds easier though.
I put the edge of the clip in and held it in place with a probe. then following that same side of the clip with the flat head i went around the edge a little at a time pressing it in till you get to the end and they clip right in.
Admission on my part though is I don't practice it full time but am a 3rd generation locksmith and am quite experienced with small clips and lock bits.
The wrist pin way sounds easier though.
#140
--Ian