That fufu GRATATA. ramble..i mean build thread
I started another thread in the DIY turbo section which is obviously the wrong place and obviously before I explored this site enough to find the proper place. That being said, I'm too lazy tonight to add the pictures that I have, so I'll do that tomorrow, but this will be the initial write-up of my progress so far.
I got my first Miata in May of 2016 after my Mazda 6 got rear ended in evening Philly traffic. I had very little technical experience with cars, my dad and brother were the gearheads growing up. Looking for a new car, I knew I wanted something small and fun. Found a 1990 Classic Red NA6 at a dealership and bought it, hindsight being 20/20, I would have looked longer for a 1.8 probably, maybe an NB, but above all a car that was rust free. Anyway, I learned to drive stick after we got back, and then I immediately wanted to look into modifying the car. Like a 24 year old idiot, I immediately found grainy videos of guys doing 2JZBROO $WAPZ with fat vape clouds everywhere and wanted to look into trying that. I literally emailed a shop to ask them if they could help me do that. Oh god, embarrassed to type some of this out, but it was part of the journey that I accept. One day I realized that I should "settle" with a 1.8 swap and turbo it. Found a 1997 discarded drift slut at a junkyard for $700 that started immediately, tore it apart mostly for motor, diff, driveshaft. Such a great find for that price. Found this site and started reading and trying to figure out how to use the search function. Almost immediately overwhelmed with terms and graphs and pictures that I couldn't recognize or make sense of, but kept soldiering on. Let's get to the build. #Goals: Try to make a car that can handle whatever I throw at it, will be improving as I go along. HP? whatever the engine will safely do with an allofit build - I don't want to steal fae's idea so I'll call this a mightaswell build. Throwing out numbers, plan on up to 20psi, but again that's just something I want it to be able to handle. Standard MT build from most of the posts I've seen: The Big Stuff: BP4W head, stock valves, took it to machine shop and having it checked out and Supertech double heavy springs installed VICS IM Cometic .045 head gasket Built block: Wiseco 83.5 8.6:1 on Manley H beams with ACL HX Std; ARP head and main studs 6 speed from a 1999; Nielex short shifter; Flyin Miata 10lb flywheel from donor car; ACT XT 6 puck 4.1 Torsen from the donor car; 1.8 single-piece axles Tokico Illuminas on FM shocks; have Racing Beat sway bars from donor car but haven't tried to install them yet, may need to drill another hole in the front one (1.8 -> 1.6), may just buy a new front for 1.6 chassis; FM adjustable endlinks (do I even need these since the car isn't lowered?) ECU: MS3X TSE EFR 6758. Other stuff: Depowered steering rack from Hahnlsquid 949 Cooling kit (radiator, reroute) D585 LS Coils Walbro 255 ID1000s 15x9 6ULs on 255/45/15 not sure which tire yet SuperMiata Damper Boundary oil pump More stuff: Complete PU bushing kit AC delete Airbag delete Want minimum 4 point roll bar with door bars, frame rails eventually Replacing clutch master/slave and have SS clutch line Replacing tired and rusted old nuts and bolts 949 hybrid motor mounts possibly Buying ThirdGen's valve cover with the welded pvc vent port Replacing all gaskets and seals There are probably more things I'm forgetting, I'll add along the way Things from the above list that I have not bought yet, plus residual parts: Left to buy: Turbo kit and all accessories Cooling (radiator, reroute, hoses) Wheels/tires EBC: need recommendations Gauges:, oil press, temp, boost will be on ebc Valve cover, possibly oil pickup, VICS IM Exhaust: Artech 3" Misc nuts and bolts that need replacing Fluids, gasket maker, other sealants Assorted shit that will pop up and give me headaches. |
Originally Posted by Philly Miata
(Post 1380129)
Probably waiting on TSE to finish their kit for intercooler and piping, etc.
. You do understand this is literally the easiest part of all this? |
You do not need to replace your stock FPR, to answer your query.
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Thanks shooter, I did read that the 1.6 FPR will do, so that's a relief.
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Originally Posted by farpolemiddle
(Post 1380387)
You do understand this is literally the easiest part of all this?
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Truthfully, our IC setup is going to be sized for 95% of applications (i.e. everything under 400whp). If you really want to make good use of that 7163, you're going to want to cut up the front of the car and fit a Precision 600hp.
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Thanks for the info Sav, according to precision's website, the 600 is 31 1/2"L X 8.0"H X 3 1/2"D compared to the 350 you guys sell, with a difference of 5 inches in length and 2 inches in height. I'll look into what I would have to cut to make the bigger IC fit. Another question that I'm sure you could answer: with a bigger intercooler, actually with an intercooler in general, how much is the airflow to the radiator affected in NAs with the stock front end? Are there good any ducting mods to make sure enough air is passing through to the radiator or will it work as is?
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Originally Posted by Philly Miata
(Post 1380407)
Thanks shooter, I did read that the 1.6 FPR will do, so that's a relief.
I used my stock 1.8 FPR flipped upside down. |
EBC: need recommendations |
Any idea if the 1.6 FPR would work with an NB fuel rail? I'm using a VICS IM and possibly that fuel rail. I will have both my 1.6 and 1.8 fprs so I'll figure it out somehow. More research required.
Yes, the efr turbos come with a boost control solenoid, and megasquirt can control it, but i would like to be able to change my boost settings on the fly if that's possible. I need to read more about how it works. If I'm completely wrong, I'll know sooner than later. |
Originally Posted by Philly Miata
(Post 1380501)
Any idea if the 1.6 FPR would work with an NB fuel rail? I'm using a VICS IM and possibly that fuel rail. I will have both my 1.6 and 1.8 fprs so I'll figure it out somehow. More research required.
Yes, the efr turbos come with a boost control solenoid, and megasquirt can control it, but i would like to be able to change my boost settings on the fly if that's possible. I need to read more about how it works. If I'm completely wrong, I'll know sooner than later. https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...80308/page350/ read this. |
Actually now that I think about it I'm definitely using the NB fuel rail. The 1.6 FPR wouldn't work with the VICS manifold.
MS3x can do table switching on an input, you could run a highboost/lowboost table via a switch on the dash. |
Originally Posted by Onyxyth
(Post 1380485)
I bought a 1.6 FPR thinking it would work with BP4W head + NA 1.8 fuel rail. It doesn't - the hose barb side has a kink that makes it interfere.
I used my stock 1.8 FPR flipped upside down. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1380403)
You do not need to replace your stock FPR, to answer your query.
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Originally Posted by farpolemiddle
(Post 1380506)
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1380513)
Debatable. OP will need a DW300 at minimum, and a Walbro 450 if he intends to run E85 on his setup. Both of those will cause crappy idle with the stock FPR unless you put them on a rewired solid-state relay, which requires PWM control from the MS3. Even if he does do the SSR, OP may discover that to make his power goals without buying a $900 set of ID1300s, he may need more base pressure than the stock 43psi FPR has to offer. At that point, an adjustable FPR becomes required.
And thanks for the reality checks whenever i finally think I know what I'm doing lol |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1380511)
Alternatively, you can source the EUDM 99-00 FPR from a return-style NB, which drops in and fits perfectly. Even fires the fuel line down, which is slightly preferred over the upside-down 1.6L FPR which puts the return line up.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1380513)
Debatable. OP will need a DW300 at minimum, and a Walbro 450 if he intends to run E85 on his setup. Both of those will cause crappy idle with the stock FPR unless you put them on a rewired solid-state relay, which requires PWM control from the MS3. Even if he does do the SSR, OP may discover that to make his power goals without buying a $900 set of ID1300s, he may need more base pressure than the stock 43psi FPR has to offer. At that point, an adjustable FPR becomes required.
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Sixshooter what do you run on?
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4 Attachment(s)
This is a NA 1.8 FPR on the NB Rail & VICS intake.
(click to expand) Attachment 230585 Attachment 230586 Attachment 230587 Attachment 230588 |
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