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Fully built 95R with a itty bitty turbo
What's up guys, I'm starting this late in the build process but better late than never right?
Im on my fourth miata and have finally found the perfect canvas for a healthy build. I've been gathering parts since late 2014 which I now regret with EFRs being the newish hotness. Whatever, on to the good stuff Here's where we're at now 1995 R packagehttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2930bf9bf3.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9e2d88f7d8.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...45ebd9679a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...91c5e5ab11.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...827cc2bf02.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cb55b99b25.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a8b3b9826d.jpgBriggs Motorsport manifold that I wish I bought instead of the Begi cast 😩 https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f140574877.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...73884cc899.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a7b25d9817.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...af40034b54.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5f78e4b64c.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d8c07ad3a9.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd8480174c.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...32d5e3d9d2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7773967aa8.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1bbbbf884e.jpg stance coilovers 6 speed (miata roadaster shifter kit not yet installed) knock off TE37 wheels (I know) wrapped in 205 dirrezas begi S3 kit with garret 2560 MSPNP2 DW550s aeromotive 340lph Gates racing timing belt Cometic head gasket ACL race bearings STD size(thrust,main,rod) ARP head studs CP Forged Pistons 83.50mm Pistons are 9.0:1 Compression Manley Forged H beam Rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts BE oil pump "custom" titanium valve train that my engine builder sourced to save a bit instead of getting the supertech balanced crank etc. etc. exhaust is will be a full 3" into a (probably magnaflow) muffler with an electric cutout dumped at the rear axles. Mishimoto Rad and fan shroud also not installed yet: ATI damper |
clean car!
amazing how good the overall condition of the car body and the sway bars etc is after all these years... makes my german '96 look like it has been laying in a river for a year :td: Keep up the good work! |
Thanks a lot man! I've had this car for a couple years now and am very happy with the guy I purchased it from. I've seen prices on <100k mile R package cars and they are asking about twice as much as I payed for this!
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Excellent start! This is my kind of build thread. :bigtu:
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whats the tubular manifold and borg turbo???
the 2560 isn't exactly itty bitty -- it's a perfectly matched sized turbo for even a built 1.8L 0-- enjoy 300rwhp. |
Great start!
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457678)
whats the tubular manifold and borg turbo???
the 2560 isn't exactly itty bitty -- it's a perfectly matched sized turbo for even a built 1.8L 0-- enjoy 300rwhp. thats where most of my frustration with buying a kit so long ago lies. This build went from wanting a healthy stock engine 2560 good for 200-220 wheel...to a six speed, then fully built engine, then kicking myself for not getting a tubular manifold and BW turbo. Thanks though! I'm very excited! |
i appreciate it guys!
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Briggs Motorsports built roll bar finished and should be going in today!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e7db9be132.jpg |
It's never too late to upgrade, sure you'll lose a few bucks, but you'll lose even more down the line when it's got xx,xxx miles on it. 2560 will sell quick on this forum.
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Originally Posted by sshamrockk
(Post 1457697)
It's never too late to upgrade, sure you'll lose a few bucks, but you'll lose even more down the line when it's got xx,xxx miles on it. 2560 will sell quick on this forum.
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Originally Posted by PBGuts
(Post 1457701)
that is true, but I will be heading to a foreign land for a few months in march so I figured a better option would be to wait till I have more 💰💰💰 when I get home around late July so the new snail isn't just sitting around. Plus, between completion and March, I can't imagine the 2560 and cast mani will have much more than 2500 miles so it should still sell fine. I appreciate the input though!
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Originally Posted by sshamrockk
(Post 1457743)
Thats fair, then I say run it obv. I recently just sold my 2560r in a matter of minutes with only 3k on it.. Found 3 bananas inside my motor, so now the fun starts. 2560 is plenty though, for most people, you should be happy with it for awhile. If you have e85 available in your area you will be able to make a bit more power than us 93 plebs.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457845)
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https://www.miataturbo.net/signature...gpic1165_8.gif
stock 99 motor running MS1 with shitty injectors. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457867)
https://www.miataturbo.net/signature...gpic1165_8.gif
stock 99 motor running MS1 with shitty injectors. I thought that chart looked familiar! I wonder how long that motor lasted haha. I guess your point is that you can take the 2560 up quite a ways with some work and not give up the response. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457845)
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I think the BEGI cast manifold is about the last remaining piece from my original turbo kit from ~2007. I've considered upgrading several times, but I can't give up how reliable the old boat anchor has been. I'm sure it gives up some spool against a nice tubular manifold, but I'll definitely flow enough to start breaking stuff.
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Paul's car was on gas IIRC. It is also a freak of nature, very few people have even come close to those numbers on a 2560R.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1457894)
Paul's car was on gas IIRC. It is also a freak of nature, very few people have even come close to those numbers on a 2560R.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1457894)
Paul's car was on gas IIRC. It is also a freak of nature, very few people have even come close to those numbers on a 2560R.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1457894)
Paul's car was on gas IIRC. It is also a freak of nature, very few people have even come close to those numbers on a 2560R.
Dynojets are consistent. and we had run like 20-30 different miatas on the same dyno -- so it wasn't a fluke/fake number. I think Tim's manifold was just a great pairing to that turbo -- the BEGI IM helped a butt ton too. |
Sub'd, great start, a GT2560 to start and upgraded rods are in my foreseeable future.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457900)
we repeated it on Ed's 97. same absurdflow manifold, begi IM, and TB. stock motor. 93 pump. he was running like 14-15psi and made 270rwhp on the dynojet. nearly identical plot -- ill have to look for it.
Dynojets are consistent. and we had run like 20-30 different miatas on the same dyno -- so it wasn't a fluke/fake number. I think Tim's manifold was just a great pairing to that turbo -- the BEGI IM helped a butt ton too. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...efa11382da.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...96847c505e.jpgNot my engine but this is the rig he fabs up with a mustang TB. Seems solid! |
Originally Posted by PBGuts
(Post 1457918)
when I upgrade the turbo and turbo Mani I'm also going to have Josh Briggs fan me up an intake mani....unless I can find a flat top for a decent price before then.
Just be aware that a custom intake manifold will most likely be 2x the cost of the flat top, and no guarantee it will actually be better. |
just make sure it has like ~9" runners.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457922)
just make sure it has like ~9" runners.
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Originally Posted by sshamrockk
(Post 1457899)
Inb4 hate for saying this, but it is a dyno jet, which we all know reads a bit high, but even on a Mustang dyno that's about 280 which is still impressive.
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lol. you got a neg cat for speaking the truth.
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I always prefer dynojets when power bragging for all the reasons Spendington listed.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457995)
lol. you got a neg cat for speaking the truth.
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/pedant hat
Accuracy and precision (ie reliability) aren't the same thing. /end pendant hat |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1457995)
lol. you got a neg cat for speaking the truth.
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1458139)
/pedant hat
Accuracy and precision (ie reliability) aren't the same thing. /end pendant hat |
Just purchased these. I imagine they will take forever to arrive but that should give me some time to practice my fabricating skills on making some seat rails.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8e89dddf07.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4462979dd.jpg |
those will look good!
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1458151)
Fair enough. Dynojets are accurate. There are other dynos which are more precise. They each have their place, and I use one or the other depending on what my goals are. What annoys me is when people who don't understand physics say that Dynojets "read high". No, they don't. They read accurately. They measure power directly by seeing how long it takes to accelerate a drum of a known mass and size from one speed to another, higher, speed. Accelerating the drum is doing work, the time it takes to do that work is power. Do a little unit conversion and you have horsepower.
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Originally Posted by PBGuts
(Post 1458196)
Just purchased these. I imagine they will take forever to arrive but that should give me some time to practice my fabricating skills on making some seat rails.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8e89dddf07.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4462979dd.jpg |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1458242)
Which momo seat is that and did you buy 2? If not I might have an older momo-start for sale soon for super cheap. I am hoping to upgrade from my momo seats to something a little better.
Shoot, it is the momo start and yes I did order two. I appreciate it though. Maybe I should ask before purchasing next time |
Sorry for a lack of updates through the holidays! Not the most prgress since then but Briggs Motorsports did finish up my sweet exhaust (with cutout) here's some pics!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3f34b862b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4f5e63d9.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c7af9c72.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c1b527af4.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...45786e2db.jpeg |
So ofcourse the Bell kit doesn't fit very well. Had to cut and patch one of the IC pipes cause the angle of the crossover tube/BOV did not line up. Also had to shorten the air filter box cause my hood would not close when installed the way it came. Frustrating. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...09d5d604fd.jpghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0e2e1706b3.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb86c3e41f.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c2bb71229e.jpg |
Savington missed the opportunity to LOL at huge lines to Catch Can from the passenger side of valve cover.
Gorgeous Build. |
Really, really clean car.
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1461494)
Savington missed the opportunity to LOL at huge lines to Catch Can from the passenger side of valve cover.
Gorgeous Build.
Originally Posted by Stealth97
(Post 1461498)
Really, really clean car.
Thanks a lot. I've been getting parts together for a long time for this thing. Josh Briggs is responsible for the cleanliness of the build and I couldn't be happier so far!Now for the ad news, we found some metal chunks in my six speed. It goes through the gears fine so we will see how t goes. I really...really don't want to buy another trans. |
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Frame rails are weak and crush easily. I always lift on jacking points of pinch welds. Not sure what others do.
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1461514)
Frame rails are weak and crush easily. I always lift on jacking points of pinch welds. Not sure what others do.
I haven't had any issues as long as you place the pads near where the frame bends up |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...573be6c5c.jpegThe coil bracket Briggs motorsports fabbed up for me. If you guys are interested in his work, check out the briggs motorsports Facebook page and Instagram! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6c589b9ec.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b0bf4f3ebb.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f60979b5f.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...688443844.jpeg Looking at first start up probably being Monday. |
Well I'll I have some good news and bad news.
Good news is, the plug wires are cut to equal length so the engine bay looks a little bit cleaner https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2bc2035b6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...773f7c464.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1101a4206.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e434acccb.jpeg Did I mention that the bad news definitely outweighs the good news 😒 When I had the engine built, I had it 100% assembled by my builder. Well, I'm pretty sure the timing is off. During "first start up" today, it wouldn't start and exhaust was coming out of the intake. Not to mention the compression on all cylinders were all Wonkey. Here's to another week of wrenching. |
I bet he ignored the book and used the i and e marks in the way that they would logically be oriented as opposed to the illogical way the Mazda did it.
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I seriously don't understand why so many people struggle with the timing belt, don't need any special tools. Probably lined up the marks looking from above instead of eyeing down the cam gear.
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Originally Posted by sonofthehill
(Post 1462422)
I seriously don't understand why so many people struggle with the timing belt, don't need any special tools. Probably lined up the marks looking from above instead of eyeing down the cam gear.
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what kind of hose is that on the PCV?
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Pcv is blocked off. Those lines are for the catch can
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A quick thing you can check before tearing into things is if the engine builder put your reluctor plate on backwards. With your crank pulley at the TDC mark, it should look like this from the front. If it is on correctly the timing mark is at the 1 o'clock position, not at the 11 o'clock position. If it's wrong it won't start and will sound like the timing is off. Also, it backfires through the intake and generally emits ugly noises. Ask me how I know this.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7498211783.jpg |
Originally Posted by tankrust
(Post 1462730)
A quick thing you can check before tearing into things is if the engine builder put your reluctor plate on backwards. With your crank pulley at the TDC mark, it should look like this from the front. If it is on correctly the timing mark is at the 1 o'clock position, not at the 11 o'clock position. If it's wrong it won't start and will sound like the timing is off. Also, it backfires through the intake and generally emits ugly noises. Ask me how I know this.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7498211783.jpg Great advice. Will follow up. Thanks! |
Well, the car's timing was in fact off. Got that sorted out....know what that means? First start up! Far started and idled fine with a base tune from josh briggs. In true PBGuts fashion, ofcourse no single step of this build can go perfectly smooth...the boundary oil pump was leaking at an alarming rate. Yes, my engine builder who fluffed up the timing, also installed the oil pump. Makes me worry about the engine internals 😫 Due to me being in a military school four hours from my car, josh is going to get that sorted out for me and we should be up and running around the 9th/10th of march. The quality of work done on my car by Briggs Motorsports is unbelievable. As soon as I'm back in savannah, I will blow this thread up with Pics/videos of the car and the exhaust cutout. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...586a858237.jpgCoolant tank subbed for a mishi one and stowed just in front of the radiator for cleanliness https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8530692f4.jpg |
HELPPPP
First start up after the oil pump re-install is done. Car HAS not been broken in yet but it is burning more oil out of the exhaust each time we fire it up. I hope that it is misgapped rings and nothing more serious than that. The engine will have to be disassembled again before break in obviously, any recommendations on what to look for while in there? Just to reiterate, the first start up after the oil pump install it did not seem to be burning an unecasary amount of oil, after 5 or so more start ups it smokes out a garage in a matter of seconds. This tells me it is definitely not spilled oil in the bay. |
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