delturcious

iTrader: (4)

I bought my worn-out, bone-stock 94 with 208k miles about 2 years ago, and since then, it's been in need of a wee bit more power. After completely redoing the suspension, steering, and brakes it was time for BOOOOOST. I've been collecting parts for about a year now and figured I'd wait to start the build thread until everything was actually assembled.

Power goal is 200hp or so and reliable enough to be daily driven, and based on what I've seen on others cars with this turbo, that's possible after I turn up the boost. The other goal was for it to be as cheap as possible but done right. I probably have about $2300 or so into everything power-related (MS2, exhaust, and of course turbo) so it's not a budget-busting project... especially since there isn't a car payment involved

The stuff you actually care about:

• Baby Garrett turbo off an SR20
• Old FM/BEGi cast log manifold
• FM Downpipe
• FM ceramic coated turbine outlet
• 460cc RX-7 Injectors
• DIYPNP Megasquirt 2
• LC-1 WBO2
• Enthuza dual 3" exhaust
• Enthuza 2.5->3.0" cat
• FM "upgraded" intercooler
• Custom IC piping
• Bosch BOV set up for VTA

Everything assembled on my workbench. The turbo is small enough that it can be installed as an assembly with the upper portion of the downpipe with some creativity.


Test fit, hence the lack of hose clamps. The wastegate mounts to the compressor housing so I couldn't simply clock the thing down.


I was too cheap to buy the EGR fitting or the block off plate, so I just sandwiched a piece of aluminum under the EGR.


Hotside piping. The intercooler is friggin HUGE so the only option was around the rad.



Coldside piping. Again, around the rad.




Intake elbow. This is a cast aluminum piece that I just tapped for all my coldside fittings. Yes, I used threadlock


Cat installed. 2.5" in from the FM downpipe; 3" out to the Enthuza duals.


Enthuza FTW!



After the first test drive, I learned that a) the tune for my boosted cells is **** (hitting 8.5 AFRs with only a little boost!) b) that oil burning off the turbo/manifold looks like a giant exhaust leak and c) one of my stainless braid coolant hoses has a teeny tiny leak that showed up after I turned the car off. Dammit.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Easy fix, take that straight fitting off and install a 90*. I wouldn't think it'd like that extreme turn.

delturcious

iTrader: (4)

I'm planning to replace it with a 90 (the other side already has one), but I think I'll have to replace the entire line. The leak is actually coming through the braid about 2" back from the connector. I could probably just chop it off up to that point, but if the line already has one leak, it may fail in other places too :( Do you think it's possible that the leak is coming from the connector and streaming *between* the teflon/rubber/whatever liner and the braid? I also have to figure out what size AN fitting is on it...

curly

iTrader: (25)

It could, is it coming out the top of the radius? It it was going to come out the weave, that's where it would come out. I agree though, replace the entire line with some quality stuff.

delturcious

iTrader: (4)

Good point--the leak is where the most stress would be on the braid, and it looks almost like it's pulled out of the connector a bit. I just ordered the 90 for now. Connectors are reusable so I can always replace it ALL later.

I did drive it a tiny bit over the weekend, and it starts to spool up even before 2500 rpm at low throttle. I couldn't stay out of boost even when trying to drive like a granny.

USPS, BRING ME MY FITTING!

delturcious

iTrader: (4)

Got the fitting over the weekend, and learned today that my radiator fan wasn't running. Ugh. Found a thread on configuring my DIYPNP to run it and that did the trick. I typically don't drive in anything resembling traffic since I live in the boonies, so today's 45 minute drive that actually included stoplights made my coolant very unhappy. I'll probably end up doing the parallel fan mod.

But holy crap... it feels SO STRONG now when you stomp on it! The Enthuza exhaust has a really bad resonance from 1500-2000rpm, but the rest of the range is incredibly smooth. It's going to take a great amount of willpower to not toss in a manual boost controller.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

Similar setup to mine. Only real difference is I run MS1, COP's, and 550cc's

FYI I made 224 rwhp on the last dyno day with a decently agressive spark map and about 12-14 psi

EDIT: I made 206 rwhp on a similar dyno with a VERY conservative spark map at about the same PSI