Savington put together one of his low compression TSE built motors for me. ATI damper, supertech valvetrain, and all the other goodies he puts into his built motors. It is an 01+ VVT motor that I am combining with my VICS manifold from my blown motor. My goal with this is to get the lowest possible boost onset from the EFR6258 and hold a broad flat torque curve across the rev range with a little bit more overrun than stock. This should make for a very controllable autox platform.

 

Here is how I am addressing clearance of the ARTech manifold with the coolant manifold.

 

So we're going to have the same motor, the same intake manifold, very very similar turbo manifolds, the only major difference will be 6258 vs 6758 and our I/C setup. Very cool, see how much the difference really is.

 

Dangit! Why do you have so much more clearance than I do on the mixing manifold?

Looking glorious, keep up the good work!

 

Well, they are hand made manifolds. I would expect a fair amount of variation between them.


I am having the oil return and oil temp sensor bungs welded into the pan this week. With that done I should be able to install everything in the car this week and start on cleaning up the wiring a bit.

 

When this was running, did you have any problems with boost creep from the EFR?

I'm debating IWG vs EWG 6258 and trying to see if anyone's having creep issues with the IWG + top mount. Basically I'm concerned the immediate turndown for the DP would cause creep issues.

 

I know exactly what you are saying and I've been worrying about this as well. Mine should be coming together in the next couple months and I'll definitely post up.

 

Mine creeped, but I used a non-stock actuator that has less stroke than stock. Still it only creeped to 12psi at peak power.

 

Awesome, I'm (quite) a few months out as well. Still have to build my motor. I'm debating going bottom mount to straighten the DP out but I'd honestly like to retain power steering.

 

It wasn't running long enough for me to be able to tell you with any certainty whether or not there was much boost creep. I was still trying to get my low boost actuator to not bleed off pressure before the desired setpoint was reached when it popped the #4 rod.

 

I have a similar setup 99 with top mount 6258 and run the wastegate opened all yhe time for the first few hudred miles by using a piece of allthread in place of the canister and found that it only made 2 psi of boost that way, and have not had boost creep to speak of at 10psi

 

Dang Harold, I forgot you had an EFR and a build thread. Pardon me while I shuffle off to go reread it...

 

My schedule is not allowing for very quick progress unfortunately. Hopefully I will have it on the road here in March.

Currently the powertrain is back in the car.

I took the time to rewire pretty much the whole harness so I could clean up my old patch work. The main section is still open for easy access while I test out everything in the ecu.

My old coil bracket would not work with the new VVT components in the way. So I welded up a new bracket for the D581 coils.

 

Car is back together and is now running. Since it was so nice out yesterday I took the car out and completed the TSE break-in procedure. The idle was a bit rough and it stalled once. After it stalled, I noticed the voltage started to drop. about a block from the house the voltage dropped to 9v and the coil packs started cutting out.

Only inspection, I found that everything was connected properly. Charged the battery and it started back up again...

I found the issue came from when the car stalled at a stop sign. I just cranked it over and the result is that the ecu stopped controlling the alternator. Instead I should have keyed off and started the car again.

I don't remember ever having this issue before. I think it may have to do with the voltage dropping lower during cranking since I just replaced my Westco battery with a Deka ETX20L.

Next on the list of things to do:
-Get VVT working with my adaptronic e420c
-seal up the open portion of the engine wiring harness
-replace the upper ball joints and lube/check the suspension
-build a better retaining bracket for the smaller battery
-road tune the car while the rings are still sealing (still using tune from the stock engine)
-dyno tune at Innovative Motor Works

 

I love early spring when people start itching to get their builds back on the road.

Good luck sir!

 

"early spring" mother ****** its still winter.

 

I will admit, it has been pushed down the priority list far too much this winter. There is still plenty to do on the car, but I figured having it on the road would make it easier to get things done.

 

Have fun in your arctic hell

 

"winter" is where I need a sweatshirt in the evenings sometimes

 

It's 78 here today -- I'm wearing shorts and sandals.

--Ian