ouch :laugh:

but he doesn't really have any useable wheels yet anyway

When calculating the distance to the center of the bead to bead distance, you do not need to subtract the thickness of the bead. If the inner and outer beads are asymmetrical thicknesses, that's a different story, but you still wouldn't subtract the actual thickness.

Ben, stick the Longdong 15x10 +??s on your DD and measure the track width (do it as accurately as possible, preferably with toe plates). Compare that to your purple NB.

I just measured a 6UL....
164mm backspace, along with a frontspace of 114mm and total outer width of 278mm. ET25

So I am a derp.

The two wheels seem equivalent, so I am left to be suspicious of those control arms not matching OEM length. Our white car has ELBJs, but I can grab a track width to compare if desired.

Weren't in stock anywhere when i ordered. When i tried to order them as backups because the Longerdongers got delayed, there were a total of 3 in stock across all vendors.

I tried.

I did that.

And.... the wheels fit great on the blue car. Legitimate flat roll DD status. With less camber than the purple car.

Blue car track with 15x10 +25 245/40:

Front: 67"
Rear: 67.5"

Hater is 1.25" wider PER CORNER in the front. 1.125" wider PER CORNER in the rear. WHAT.

And before we blame the things i've done to the car, again consider that the initial fitting was attempted on all stock everything. Stock original arms, hubs, brakes, bushings, balljoints, everything. If it had looked anything at ALL like the blue car currently looks, i wouldn't have even considered sending PTS an email asking "uhhhhhhhh WUT?" I wouldn't have made a single big deal out of it. I would have just done a flat roll and gone on with my day. I spent hours trying to get them to fit on all stock everything. Hours.

I'm completely lost. I give up.

So what you're saying is you should have put the wheels on the other car.

https://media.tenor.com/images/56367...77a8/tenor.gif


https://m.popkey.co/fd350f/KlJZL_s-200x150.gif


Now pics or it didn't happen.

Is it 1" or 25.4 mm?

Same distance, different measurements.

so your purple car is retarded? 'grats.

It'd be easier. But other car is a DD and i got the wheels prior to the other car. Sigh.

And already ordered 205/50s for the blue car.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/...370f57ea_b.jpg
20170817_203543 by concealer404, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/...c5b8874f_b.jpg
20170817_203520 by concealer404, on Flickr

Rear quarter directly above, no body modifications.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4359/...2b2e8e5f_b.jpg
20170817_203557 by concealer404, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/...8ed96d24_b.jpg
2017-08-18_09-08-48 by concealer404, on Flickr

Jack the front end up and measure each car's width from the bottom of the brake rotors. Take the wheels out of the equation.

I will do that on Sunday when i get back in town. It's going to be different.

Measure subframe mounting to subframe mounting also. And subframe to outside of arm. Measure allthethings.

I don't know how much more effort i'm really going to be putting into "why," just FYI.

But i will be making some 2 piece aero front fenders a la ThePass and probably throwing overfenders at the rear over winter.

Yes, it's really that bad.

Alternatively, you could realign your car and readjust the FUCAs so your wheels actually fit

I'll get the measurements to rotors on Sunday, but the combination of FUCA/ELBJ doesn't have any bearing on RUCA and the camber i was able to get with very mild e-bolt position.

I don't think if i messed up the UCAs by an inch on every corner, that i would have been able to get an alignment on this thing. Also again: This was batshit on stock arms, stock brakes, stock balljoints, stock everything.

Paging asmasm, we need a suspension scan on aisle 7.