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Old 11-07-2013, 12:55 PM   #41
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If it's just "overspray," should clean it up pretty easily with sandpaper or a wire brush. It may not be enough to really worry about. Dunno.
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:58 PM   #42
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Maybe the turbo will just eat whatever flakes come off and smile?

I'm getting to the point where I will probably just say **** it and run the thing. If it blows up due to residue then I can always source a cheap turbo or just throw everything away and buy a Corvette. I'm almost 40 as it is.

Also, this stuff is really tough. I was test fitting and banged it against a few things in there and it didn't leave a mark.

Last edited by Harv; 11-07-2013 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:33 PM   #43
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Good point, i mean it is just a greddy turbo. If it were my gt2860rs i would be scared of scrapping the turbo though.

Just chip at it with a wire brush/tools and see if you can remove it. If you cant easily remove it, and it doesn't seem to flake easily, run it.
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:18 PM   #44
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The guy reiterated to me that he has never had an issue with the material coming off, which is why he would have done the interior of the manifold if I had asked. My admittedly unscientific test of banging it on the engine block by accident seems to show that it's pretty durable.
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:02 PM   #45
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Nice to see it coming together Harv. I wish I was at your point in my build!
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:29 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
Nice to see it coming together Harv. I wish I was at your point in my build!
Ha ha ha, come on, if you saw my car you would have taken it all apart and cleaned out all the dirt and crud, swapped the motor back after giving it a shiny paint job and then put it back together again in the time I took to remove the manifold.

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Old 11-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #47
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Ha ha ha, come on, if you saw my car you would have taken it all apart and cleaned out all the dirt and crud, swapped the motor back after giving it a shiny paint job and then put it back together again in the time I took to remove the manifold.

Be happy you don't have my OCD! You save a lot of money not doing what I do
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #48
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Another Greddy kit in SW CT, fun! That turbo is unworthy of that manifold.
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:43 PM   #49
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Nothing is ever easy.

Got the manifold installed, still need to figure out an intake piping setup now that the airbox is gone, but while I was thinking about that I decided to swap in the new injectors. Mind you I have had this fuel rail off before so I wasn't expecting problems, but it turns out one of the bolts seized up and broke off. Sooo, once the small amount of fuel that leaked out dries up I'll drill that out and hopefully the threads will be okay and I can just get another bolt.

Also managed to break a clip off one of the fuel injector connectors.

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Old 11-08-2013, 10:23 PM   #50
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I think that almost all of my fuel injector clips are broken and have been for 20-30K miles. LOL. Maybe I'll fix them one day, but it doesn't cause problems.
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Old 11-10-2013, 03:39 PM   #51
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Friend came over with some stuff and helped me drill the hole out and retap it. Seems to be okay now. Did you know that 14 lb/ft is not a lot of torque?
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Old 11-10-2013, 03:52 PM   #52
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Yeah I'm always surprised at how little it is. For some reason whenever I get a torque wrench in my hands I always think I need to make a herculean effort on the first pull.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:55 PM   #53
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I see noobs abusing torque wrenches all the time out at the track. They literally jump on them with everything they have when they retorque their lugs. Did it click? Hell yeah, it clicked -- but you have no idea how much torque you just applied.

Please, use them correctly, gradually increasing pressure until you get the click. Finesse, like the throttle on track out or a third date.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:02 PM   #54
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Yeah, pretty sure when I tightened up the injector rail last time I just blew it on the amount of torque needed as the specs are 14-19lbs for those and that's not a lot and I didn't use a torque wrench. BTW, having the full service manual for the Miata is very useful. I got a used one for $50.

Oh and I hooked up the MS3 and it actually connected and is reading my VTPS. Gonna wait to start until I hook up the WBO2. Just need to verify with Scott that the middle connector is where he put the O2 wire and I'll wire it in.

I've got the LC1 connected to the gauge in the interior right now, I'm assuming that splicing off the wiring going into that and running it over to the MS isn't going to present a problem.

I'd take some pics of the car back together, but other than the manifold it looks as horrible as it ever has and my wiring for the AIT sensor is terrible as well since the amount of wire they give you isn't that much for running from the intercooler. Where do people run the wiring for the AIT? I just ran it up from the IC in back of the radiator and over to the AFM connector.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:57 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post

Please, use them correctly, gradually increasing pressure until you get the click. Finesse, like the throttle on track out or a third date.
If you haven't sealed the deal by the second date you need practice son!
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #56
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Hell, I just realized I have to go through the wiring and figure out where I had connected the Bipes into the the harness and remove it.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:10 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harv View Post
BTW, having the full service manual for the Miata is very useful. I got a used one for $50.
FSM's are on this site as stickies. Easily downloaded.

Quote:
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I'm assuming that splicing off the wiring going into that and running it over to the MS isn't going to present a problem.
Not a problem.

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Originally Posted by Harv View Post
my wiring for the AIT sensor is terrible as well since the amount of wire they give you isn't that much for running from the intercooler.
Same as above, not a problem. The IAT sensor is a resistive element and you could have used your own wire in the length that suited you. I saw someone post in your other thread about keeping wire length to a minimum. Believe me, with the IAT, another couple of feet of wire is WAY down in the noise.

The wire that comes with the kit is high-quality though.

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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
If you haven't sealed the deal by the second date you need practice son!
I'm old fashioned. Plus, given the incredeble car progress in your build thread, not sure you've got room to talk. How long has it been?
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:47 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post

I'm old fashioned. Plus, given the incredeble car progress in your build thread, not sure you've got room to talk. How long has it been?
Touche' Too long, she is in theatre so she travels all over the country. Long distance relationships suck.
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:06 PM   #59
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Quote:
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FSM's are on this site as stickies. Easily downloaded.
It's nice to have the book there to refer to. I hate dirtying up my computer or tablet.
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Old 11-11-2013, 03:32 PM   #60
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I'm trying to puzzle out the intake situation. My problem is that there are obstacles in the way, not the least of which is that intercooler piping that goes up and over the PS/AC stuff. The other annoying thing is that the adjustment screw for the shock sticks up out of the tower about two or three or so inches so going up and over it and into the corner is a pain.

I decided I would try ordering this and see if I can just fit the thing right in front with a slight bend downward to clear the IC pipe. Now I just need a cone filter with a 2.5 inch opening.

cxracing.com: 2.5" OD Intercooler Aluminum 45 Degree Pipe Kit + Hose + 2 Clamps
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