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Old 11-11-2013, 04:02 PM   #61
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hmmm 45 degree angle towards passenger side and pull air from the right side of the engine?
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Old 11-11-2013, 04:05 PM   #62
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hmmm 45 degree angle towards passenger side and pull air from the right side of the engine?
I was thinking going straight out and slightly down. I'd even just put a filter on the end of the turbo, but the IC piping there is basically coming around right in front so it's probably not gonna happen. I figure I can probably bend down slightly with the pipe and then stick a filter on. Cold air be damned.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:36 PM   #63
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I did hook up the MS and go through the TPS calibration since I have the BMW VTPS hooked up. The only thing I noticed is that the reading it is getting at full throttle is a negative number vs a positive, but once I clicked through the warning it seemed to be fine with it using it that way. I can step on the throttle and the throttle position in tuner studio goes up and down properly.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:28 PM   #64
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Which MS is it?

With MS1, I know that some features use TP% but other features use ADC. The calibration only corrects TP%.

Better make sure that all the features you want use TP%. If not, then you'll need to do a bit of wiring to get positive sensing. Look at the sticky.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:33 PM   #65
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MS3, the VTPS came pre-wired up from railz so I just plugged it in and went with it. I'm assuming it's good as the response I'm getting from Tunerstudio seems like the thing understands when it is on and off and in-between.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:46 PM   #66
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Don't assume. Seriously. Be sure.

Put up both the TP% gauge and the Throttle ADC gauge. Do they move in different directions? What will that affect?
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:11 PM   #67
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Will check. At this point I'm not sure if it is correcting it or even if I have the TPS calibrated correctly physically on the car as it could be reading high at closed throttle. I wasn't even sure of the correct range of values at closed throttle and open throttle, but now that I'm looking at the docs it seems as if closed throttle is should be 30 or less ADC.

I'll hook up the computer tomorrow and see about it. I'm still waiting on the clips for the AIT to come in and then once I have that wired up properly I'll do the O2 wiring and start calibrating things for initial startup.

Last edited by Harv; 11-12-2013 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:13 PM   #68
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Yeah, I think the TPS is wired up backwards as the ADC count is over 900 at closed throttle and then goes down as the throttle is opened.

I'll talk to railz about the connector. I bought it from him.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:46 PM   #69
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I had the same problem with the TPS kit I bought from railz. I believe it is wired backwards is all. Thing is, once I had it oriented correctly, I get a crappy readying to my MS. I thought it was a grounding issue but I have gone though everything (including another TPS). Looking forward to your updates.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:56 PM   #70
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I'm reading fine once I switched the wires, though I ended up hacking up the BMW side instead of being smart about working with the Mazda side. The BMW side is now barely hooked together. Railz and I are working things out to get things fixed.

Once I got the wiring fixed it seems to give a decent reading. I get about 60 ADC on closed throttle and now the values go up instead of going down when the throttle is opened up.

Did you make sure to put the jumper wire into the harness? How is your harness side wired?

Also a friend came over that is better about wiring than I am and we got the AIT sensor wired as well as the O2 spliced in. The anticlimactic moment was after we got this all done we tried to crank the thing and battery was too low to start the car. I'm charging it overnight and will try to crank it up in the morning.
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:09 PM   #71
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Everything is gone from the Greddy kit except the turbo now.

So, what have we got now?

Enthuza 3" exhaust is on (still got the Turbo Tony downpipe)
MS3x is hooked up and getting info from the LC1.
Got the intake situation resolved with a small piece of pipe and a filter.
Wired up the boost solenoid for boost control.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:47 AM   #72
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This thing is pretty nice now. Spools really quickly. Power is getting there as I work out the fueling. Working on the map and finally got boost control figured out in open loop mode. The 3" exhaust is loud, but not horrible. Also, having working engine mounts means that things don't move around nearly as much as they used to. Who knew?



I sealed up the exhaust with the exhaust gasket maker, but that's gonna be a pain when I have to send it out for the clutch install. You're supposed to install the goop on a cool exhaust and let it sit for 24 hours. I wonder if a local exhaust shop can find some gaskets that work? The fellow from Enthuza basically said he didn't find any gaskets that worked all that well and the goop was the best.

My use of exhaust gasket maker is haphazard at best because wrangling the components into place without getting the goop over the place is not easy on jackstands.

Going back to the clutch though, so far it seems to be holding, but I haven't really gone above 8-9 psi.

Probably should take pics of engine bay, but then you will see all my crappy hacks, like the fact that I still haven't tapped the oil pan and still use the drain hose across the engine bay.

Also, I used a paperclip to replace the wire holding the wastegate arm in place because I broke the thing. Where can I get something more official and what do I ask for?
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:53 AM   #73
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Harv, look at where I drilled my pan in my Silver car build thread. Seriously easy and it works great.

You will need a clutch. Sorry.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:56 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harv View Post
Probably should take pics of engine bay, but then you will see all my crappy hacks, like the fact that I still haven't tapped the oil pan and still use the drain hose across the engine bay.
No! No! No! ... I routed mine like this and all it did was ensure oil would occasionally back up and blow past the seals.

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Also, I used a paperclip to replace the wire holding the wastegate arm in place because I broke the thing. Where can I get something more official and what do I ask for?
Cotter pin and/or Hair pin (not the ones sold at CVS).

I've seen them in the hardware sections at Aubuchon Hardware, True Value and Lowes (at least the one in Lowell). It's really dependent on whether the local franchise prides themselves on hardware.

-Zach
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:04 PM   #75
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No! No! No! ... I routed mine like this and all it did was ensure oil would occasionally back up and blow past the seals.
Well, it's been running like this for five years so I'm not that worried about backup at this point. I also upgraded the hose to the stuff that ATP Turbo sells and zip tied it to various items so the downward path doesn't move around at all.

I'm honestly not sure how oil could back up. The thing has a pretty big downward trajectory in my car. It's just the whole layout of it that doesn't really appeal to me.

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Cotter pin and/or Hair pin (not the ones sold at CVS).

I've seen them in the hardware sections at Aubuchon Hardware, True Value and Lowes (at least the one in Lowell). It's really dependent on whether the local franchise prides themselves on hardware.

-Zach
Thanks for the reminder, I knew that at one point, will check on it.
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:53 PM   #76
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Also, I'm still trying to figure out why the O2 digital gauge does not display anything. I used the yellow wire to the MS and that's reading signal fine. The brown wire is going to the gauge and it doesn't seem to want to work. I did notice that while driving around that it popped on for a second or two and then went off again. Bad connection to power or maybe bad signal? It worked up until I started swapping wiring around to get the MS into the equation so I don't remember changing where it was drawing power from.
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:09 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Harv View Post
Also, I'm still trying to figure out why the O2 digital gauge does not display anything. I used the yellow wire to the MS and that's reading signal fine. The brown wire is going to the gauge and it doesn't seem to want to work. I did notice that while driving around that it popped on for a second or two and then went off again. Bad connection to power or maybe bad signal? It worked up until I started swapping wiring around to get the MS into the equation so I don't remember changing where it was drawing power from.
This is how zaphod instructed me to wire it and my AEM gauge shows perfect read out. Might be applicable in your case, not sure which gauge you have.

I pulled power from the +12v ignition power wire.

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Old 04-23-2014, 01:27 PM   #78
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I'm just trying to figure out what I changed that messed it up as it used to work perfectly. I think the only thing I did was switch which outputs it was using from the controller.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:06 PM   #79
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Still can't quite figure out why the gauge refuses to work, but then again my wiring stinks. I did buy a decent soldering gun so if I want to take a crack at things again I won't be messing it all up.

Per my thread on recalibrating the sensor I ended up having to replace the sensor as it ended up biting the dust. I guess five years or so of use was pretty decent. New sensor is in, I bumped the fueling up pretty rich and then hit more boost. Got about 10-12 psi going through it now and am slowly letting TS lean it out for me.

Clutch is magically still holding for now. I have the FM happy meal sitting nearby with lightened flywheel, but I don't want to spend the dough to put it in (I'm not gonna do it) until the old one starts to indicate it is giving up.

I definitely need to get some new street tires.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:32 PM   #80
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Clutch is no longer magically holding anymore. I think autocrossing in second gear with 225 Hoosiers at around 10-12psi is killing it mostly, it's definitely starting to let go.

Also, my wiring stinks. I think I need to completely redo the ground connection for the LC1. I had to swap the sensor out as that went bad. Put new sensor in and all seemed well, but because I was in there doing my shitty wiring I had messed with the grounds and recently the MS started getting a completely screwed up signal from the LC1, bears no relation to reality, but if I hook LogWorks up to the controller it is reading fine, so it must be my **** grounding. Gonna disconnect all the ground wires and resolder everything.

I did buy myself a decent soldering gun to make sure I could do this as part of my problem before was shaky hands and a crappy pencil soldering iron that got hot in random spots.
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