HornetBall's Build #2: Meet Red - Page 25 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-20-2016, 11:47 AM   #481
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,128
Total Cats: 239
Default

Sounds like a good idea for those that would rather spend their dough on more track time vs. fixing damage inflicted by others'.
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2016, 12:01 PM   #482
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
 
aidandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 17,431
Total Cats: 1,374
Default

curly and lightw8 run wrl up here. They seem to like it
aidandj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 12:43 AM   #483
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,004
Total Cats: 497
Default

WRL and Lucky Dog Racing are both awesome. A lot of the cars are still junky looking, but the newer builds are nice. I've competed in four 8 hour enduros, the first two had zero contact the entire race, the 2nd two had small amounts of contact due to heavy rain.

And yes, they're essentially Lemons/Chump officials that were tired of the gimmicky bull **** and just wanted to race. They still have a LOT of fun over the course of the weekend, but the main focus is on safety and racing.



WRL: no practice or qualifying, classed with hp/wt. Can be moved up or down via lap times or begging. No time restraint on pit stops, and can ONLY switch drivers while fueling.

LDRL: no practice, 10-20 minutes qualifying before the first race. Classed via qualifying, and can be moved up or down via lap times or begging. 5 minute minimum pit stop when fueling, no one can be in the car, so we just had the driver pop out and open the fuel cap, that way it avoided any penalties. Once the egg timer you picked up at pit in is beeping, the grab it and release you.

For example: we were in LDRL B class in the wet, but once it dried out and we starting out pacing all but the top 3-4 cars, we were bumped up to A. Shame, because it was A: my fast laps, and B: although our times were good, our straight line speeds were laughable compared to the top ~5.

Our car: NA6 with stock VVT engine, wiring harness, and MS3pro ecu, AMR suspension, 1.8 brakes with Cobalt pads, Yoko AD08, 949 lw flywheel, stock cluch, 5speed, torsen, kosei K1s. Hunsinger quick fuel jugs.

Formula for reliability and awesomeness: The above with a slightly better clutch. Cobalts and VVT are a requirement. Everything else is obviously interchangeable with similar equipment.

But I'd highly suggest avoiding stock clutches, 1.6 brakes, open diffs, bilstein suspension, turbos, stock clutches, and regular fuel jugs.

This is only my experience from 32 hours of racing, your results may vary.
Attached Thumbnails
HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-9a7fe255-fdad-403f-8700-04e2fbb4aca5_zpsy1ryrmyb.jpg  
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 10:49 AM   #484
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default

That's sweet! The guys I'm with have a former MX-5 Cup Car. Fun drive.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 11:05 AM   #485
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 421
Total Cats: 30
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
WRL and Lucky Dog Racing are both awesome. A lot of the cars are still junky looking, but the newer builds are nice. I've competed in four 8 hour enduros, the first two had zero contact the entire race, the 2nd two had small amounts of contact due to heavy rain.

And yes, they're essentially Lemons/Chump officials that were tired of the gimmicky bull **** and just wanted to race. They still have a LOT of fun over the course of the weekend, but the main focus is on safety and racing.



WRL: no practice or qualifying, classed with hp/wt. Can be moved up or down via lap times or begging. No time restraint on pit stops, and can ONLY switch drivers while fueling.

LDRL: no practice, 10-20 minutes qualifying before the first race. Classed via qualifying, and can be moved up or down via lap times or begging. 5 minute minimum pit stop when fueling, no one can be in the car, so we just had the driver pop out and open the fuel cap, that way it avoided any penalties. Once the egg timer you picked up at pit in is beeping, the grab it and release you.

For example: we were in LDRL B class in the wet, but once it dried out and we starting out pacing all but the top 3-4 cars, we were bumped up to A. Shame, because it was A: my fast laps, and B: although our times were good, our straight line speeds were laughable compared to the top ~5.

Our car: NA6 with stock VVT engine, wiring harness, and MS3pro ecu, AMR suspension, 1.8 brakes with Cobalt pads, Yoko AD08, 949 lw flywheel, stock cluch, 5speed, torsen, kosei K1s. Hunsinger quick fuel jugs.

Formula for reliability and awesomeness: The above with a slightly better clutch. Cobalts and VVT are a requirement. Everything else is obviously interchangeable with similar equipment.

But I'd highly suggest avoiding stock clutches, 1.6 brakes, open diffs, bilstein suspension, turbos, stock clutches, and regular fuel jugs.

This is only my experience from 32 hours of racing, your results may vary.
Looks like the Ridge. I really need to get some safety equipment so I can check that place out.
Itty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2016, 11:49 AM   #486
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default Extended Lower Balljoints

I picked up a set of the new Bauer extended lower balljoints on the recent group buy. Just put them in and got a fresh setup.

This is the point, extension from the mount to the ball joint stud = more track and more camber:



Even though I had part of the first lot of ball joints, it still had the markings that NASA requires for tech. I "think" these ball joints end up being 2 points due to track change and the ability to run wider tires as compared to offset upper bushings.



Changing ball joints on a Miata is laughably easy. Basically 2 nuts and a bolt. Did both sides in under an hour.



In the past, I found the hardest part of the lower balljoint change to be popping the balljoint. Always involved a BFH wielded at odd angles with stuff in the way (working on jackstands). So I got this tool from Harbor Freight. Worked great. As with all Made in China stuff, lubricate before use:



Now the gotcha' for those of you driving to a shop for setup/alignment. If you had 2.5 degrees or more camber on 225 tires before putting these in, it is likely that your tires will be hitting your springs once you set the car on the ground -- so go ahead and twist your suspension bolts to take camber out while it's up in the air.

How did it work? Great. We were able to dial in a solid 3.5 degrees of camber into the front of an NA at 4.7" pinch height with adjustment to spare. Everything has good clearance for the suspension to work. I took it out on track on some dead RS-3's and got within 1.3 seconds of my PB on R-Comps. The car felt a lot looser (loose is fast), which means the front is gripping better. I've been struggling with premature front tire wear at the outer edge -- so I'm looking forward to improved tire life. Set of sticker Toyo RR's are in the garage waiting to go on . . . .
Attached Thumbnails
HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0790.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0792.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0794.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0795.jpg  

Last edited by hornetball; 01-24-2016 at 12:23 PM.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2016, 11:38 PM   #487
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 64
Total Cats: 0
Default

Our current build version 2.0 includes a Racing Beat header, and some a slightly more optimized VVT head. I am experimenting with a K&N intake. this should all yield a consistent WHP level. Additionally, the car gets a "crusher" style front end and some rear aero.
The schedule should allow for a minimum of 4, max of 7 races.
lightw8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2016, 12:46 PM   #488
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default

I had just gotten the tires warmed up (around 6:00), and . . .


It was coolant on track. When I looked in the rear view to come back on, there was a huge cluster**** going on behind me.

Last edited by hornetball; 02-08-2016 at 03:28 PM.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 01:21 PM   #489
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default

hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 01:29 PM   #490
Hug Life
iTrader: (3)
 
Monk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Huntington, Indiana
Posts: 2,675
Total Cats: 450
Default

Good job dude.
You're getting ridiculously fast.
Now that you've been living with the car for a while, would you change anything?
Monk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 01:41 PM   #491
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
emilio700's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 4,976
Total Cats: 1,049
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Wheeeeee!!!
Looks like it has a bunch of grip and nice balance.
emilio700 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 03:51 PM   #492
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,752
Total Cats: 252
Default

I needs to come visit and catch a ride along. Nice driving!!
Girz0r is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2016, 07:49 PM   #493
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk View Post
Good job dude.
You're getting ridiculously fast.
Now that you've been living with the car for a while, would you change anything?
It doesn't break and it's fantastically fun to drive.

I'm thinking about playing with aero though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Looks like it has a bunch of grip and nice balance.
As you well know.

Thank you, BTW.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
I needs to come visit and catch a ride along. Nice driving!!
I instruct for The Driver's Edge and Apex up here. Sign up for an event. It's a great track.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2016, 05:29 AM   #494
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Zealand Christchurch
Posts: 199
Total Cats: -5
Default

Really enjoy your videos

Its crazy how far your driving skills have come!

That coolant patch looked pretty deadly

cheers Jimmy
jimmyneutron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2016, 08:26 PM   #495
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
It doesn't break
Ooooooohhhh!!! Famous last words.

Decided to do some Spring cleaning on Red. Change the oil, change friction discs and pads, regrease the suspension, blah, blah.

But, as I got into it, found problems. One of the front hubs was crunchy, so swapped it out with a new Mazda OEM spare from my track box. No big deal, kind of expected.

On to the rears. Pulled the brake disks and took a look at the hubs . . . HOLY F***ING S***:







Both sides had circumfurential cracks all the way around. On the passenger side, the cracking was only evident on the outside. But on the driver's side, cracks had gone all the way through. I honestly have no idea why this didn't launch a wheel -- but I'd rather be lucky . . . .

This can be serious. See https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...ar-hubs-72613/. Here's a vid to peak your interest.


And, the car wasn't done with me. I had been having belt squeal on startup, so I decided to tighten the WP/ALT belt. What I found was a cracked WP alternator ear.



So, here we go again . . . .:



Upon inspecting the WP, there sure isn't much material there to support the alternator. This is a cheap, Chinese WP that comes in those engine rebuild DNJ kits. Lesson learned.





Parts on order. I have an out-of-town track event next weekend. It's going to be tight.
Attached Thumbnails
HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0797.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0799.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0800.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0802.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0804.jpg  

HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0806.jpg   HornetBall's Build #2:  Meet Red-img_0807.jpg  

Last edited by hornetball; 02-22-2016 at 11:20 AM.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2016, 09:03 PM   #496
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,004
Total Cats: 497
Default

1.6 alternator bracket cut down for weight savings, 1.6 water pump, and a shorter idler pulley bolt. Might solve your problem.

Although I cut this off a vvt swap since I didn't have the 1.8 bracket to use with the 1.8 water pump, and it was pretty beefy if I remember correctly. Might be ok with a better pump? I've never seen any difference besides spot welded vs cast impeller.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2016, 09:08 PM   #497
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default

So, the 1.6 casting is beefier? I need to give that a try. Thanks.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2016, 09:11 PM   #498
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,004
Total Cats: 497
Default

No it's a separate bracket off the side of the block, not the water pump at all.

You can cut the brace and rear bolt off.

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/like/182...3D985896788041
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2016, 11:16 PM   #499
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,939
Total Cats: 568
Default

I see what you mean now. Dang . . . that would have been a much easier fix than tearing down the front of the engine.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2016, 09:08 AM   #500
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NorthWest NJ
Posts: 985
Total Cats: 41
Default

Right, so when I put my torsen in, I will change the rear hubs. And when I eventually get/build a 1.8 will transfer the alternator bracket over. Good to know!

Glad to see you caught the hubs before anything went wrong.
x_25 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 57 07-19-2017 04:11 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 07:18 PM
1991 special edition with hard top full part out JC, NJ russian Miata parts for sale/trade 6 10-08-2015 03:01 PM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 12:45 AM
K&N Intake Filter nbdooey Miata parts for sale/trade 0 09-28-2015 08:46 PM


Tags
bracket no hit bolt

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:31 PM.