Newaza

Hello fellows. Since my local track is closed for a couple months now and I wont be improving upon my times since they are closed I thought I might do a thread showing the budget parts I'm using with a few links to help other fellows who want to go somewhat fast but relatively cheaply with the bp engine. This is meant to show what mostly budget parts are proven to work at this performance level for me personally, not necessarily the best parts to use. What's also less obvious other than the parts used is the many hours testing, tuning and tweaking to get there. The ebay parts i'll be linking have gotten me a best of 6.64 in the 1/8th so far which equates to a 10.42 in the 1/4 mile at about 33 psi boost. 1/8 Mile to 1/4 Mile Hopefully by this time next year i'll be 3 tenths quicker in the 1/8th which will equate to touching the very high 9's in 1/4 mile using these same parts. I think it's doable with a few more psi boost but unproven to date. I have yet to use nitrous at the track, and hope to eventually get to the 6.30s without using it. However I have street tested with a 35 and 50 shot. dragy data indicates it should easily get there at my current boost with a 50 shot if it hooks and holds together. I just prefer not to use it just yet, thinking I can do it on boost alone.

Engine.
99 1.8 miata with wiseco pistons, ebay h beam rods, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Pist...8AAOSwk49dPjcy , and arp head studs.https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-218-470...Cclp%3A2334524 All else is stock. I limit rpms to 7000.

Fuel pump, regulator and ignition..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Ti-A...MAAOSwixNfcu-r Make sure its the real deal though, lots of knock offs. This pump draws a lot of current, but will flow a lot of fuel without large fall off at very high pressures. The pressure regulator https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Red-A...oAAOSwyG1fbCjA is a cheap knock off the aeromotive 1000. However the cheap diaphragm it comes with will leak very quickly if running e85. Fortunately you can order a genuine aeromotive replacement diaphragm which is a direct fit.
Ignition is stock coils, solid copper core wires, and solid core race spark plugs with a narrow gap.

Turbo setup (all ebay junk).
This turbo https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-P...EAAOSwGFxZeEqq is proven to work for me. I have also run the ebay gtx3576 .82ar. Either one will do the job, however the latter is more lazy on the street. Since I am using stock head and cams with a 7000 rpm limit I have to run fairly high pressure ratios to run the numbers. So far I've had good look with those turbos over the years boosting into the low-mid 30s psi. I have failed a thrust bearing on one, but ebay replacement cartridges are cheap. Manifold https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-94-05-M...wAAOSw-Rlf2WC0 will do the job and be reliable. Intercooler https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-B...UAAOSwZetXPBF4 will do nicely.
The exhaust is 3" with middle section being 3 1/2" mild steel harbor freight flux welded junk, but again gets the job done.
You will need some method to rapidly spool the turbo if using an automatic transmission. I am using compressed air, but a shot of nitrous off the line just to spool will work as well. Unlikely you will be able to run these numbers with these turbos without using one of those systems to rapidly spool the turbo and have the stock axles/rear live. The alternative would be a transbrake and a looser converter to build boost before the launch, which will break those stock parts. Or a manual tranny and 2 step for boost before launch, which will break them for sure.

Rear tires.
I have run these https://www.ebay.com/itm/255-50-16-HOOSIER-QUICK-TIME-DOT-STREET-DR2-PRO-DRAG-RADIAL-TIRE-HO-17325-ET/124303742791?epid=1175139481&hash=item1cf1149747:g dIAAOSwGYVW--jm and these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitto-18048...wAAOSwWMBfVfv7 mounted on 16" mini cooper wheels. I had to beat the crap out of the car to get them to fit, but a big hammer got it done LOL... Those are both available in 15" wheel sizes that should be easier to fit. I just posted what I've personally run.

Driveline. This is where things get a little dicey.
I am using a modified jatco automatic as found in early miatas. It will take several mods to get there and hold together. If you have to pay someone to build it your budget will definitely be shot. However for any adventurous souls out there who like to tinker and have a good understanding of automatic transmissions. I would quickly touch on this. The stock miata jatco tranny only has 3 frictions in the front clutch pack which is used for 3rd gear. You can remove the dished cushion plate and fit 2 more frictions for a total of 5. You may have to do some light sanding on the pressure plate on some tempered glass to get proper pack clearence, but its not difficult. You will also mod the valve body for more pressure, pin or much stronger springs in the accumulators and drill larger most of the shift orifice inserts. I will attempt to attach a work manual for this transmission to this post for anyone interested. Using a stock torque converter now as well. I have learned however that you should disable lockup under full power as the lockup friction material will eventually come apart if repeatedly allowing lock at full throttle. Not a big deal though, just use converter lock for cruise and mpg.
I am using the stock axles, rear end ( open 4.10 welded with fitted plate steel inserts) drive shaft, ppf and differential mount. However I do believe the only reason the stock rear end and axles are holdnig is due to using an automatic transmission and no transbrake. I have so far achieved a 1.57 60' time with those stock axles and rear. Extremely unlikely they would survive with a manual tranny or a transbrake. I just think I'm not shocking them too suddenly or getting any wheel hop, which shocks them as well. However this is not to say that i'm not on borrowed time with them. They have just lasted thus far with many passes at the track in the last couple years.

Hope this information helps anyone out there looking to drag their miata on a low budget. The above information is proven to work in the real world. If anyone else want to add low budget setups that have proven capable please feel free to add any info, just please no what ifs or guessing. Looking to only show budget setups proven to work on here. Trying to save guys from spending big dollars if they dont mind using something a little more crude to get the job done.